Frame rivets - easy ways to remove

[68GMCCustom]

I will have a few frame rivets to remove on my frame and thought I'd ask the brain trust some of the easier ways to accomplish this...based on the available tools. I have 2 to remove on this temporary frame, but will have a bunch to remove when I start on the original frame and build in the coming weeks.

I own a sawzall, a dremel w/cut off wheels, a couple of drills and various bits, plus the related misc. hand tools (hammers, chisels, punches, etc). Can I get the rivets cut loose and out of the frame and hardware with what I have w/o too much trouble? Or do I need to buy a torch to heat them up, an air chisel to cut them off and knock them out with...or maybe a plasma cutter to just blast through everything?

[bedsled71]

i cut the tops off with a sawzall and then hit them out with a punch and they usually pop right off

[jlaird]

Here is the best way I have found. take a angle grinder (with grinding disc) and grind an X in the top of the rivit. Then take a chisel and hammer and knock each of the four pieces off. Take your grinder again and grind down the remaining flush with the frame. Then take a punch and hammer and slam that bad boy out. Should take a couple minutes for each rivit after you get the hang of it.

[project1968]

I just put bags on my truck and relocated the shocks so I had to remove several rivits. I tried all the above mentioned tools and methods. The air chisel was the fastest and best by far for me. I used a flat chisel to knock the head off and a bull point to punch it out.

[pissonNOS]

you must have a better air chisel than me haha, it was taking me for ever with the flat one so i ground the heads off with an angle grinder then just popped the rivets out with the rivet attachment

[68GMCCustom]

thanks guys. I guess I'll add an air chisel to my air tool collection.

[Shane]

X's on the heads ... a sharp cold chisel and a B.F.H. ... then follow up with a punch to remove what's left.

[smoknbarrels]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Here is the best way I have found. take a angle grinder (with grinding disc) and grind an X in the top of the rivit. Then take a chisel and hammer and knock each of the four pieces off. Take your grinder again and grind down the remaining flush with the frame. Then take a punch and hammer and slam that bad boy out. Should take a couple minutes for each rivit after you get the hang of it.

I say this is the best way too, but what I think is easier to use is one of them little air disc cut-off tools.. you will have wayy more uses for that thing then you would an air chisel! they can get in every hard to reach place, cut fast and they don't cost much!

I even cut out my c-notches and sheet metal with that thing! show me an air chisel that can do that!!

[oldspowered67C10]

The air hammer w/ a chisel bit is the way to go. But you need a good one, I have a Matco one that works well but Ive used some cheap ones that were worthless.
The beauty of it is that while its smacking the hell out of the rivet to knock the head off it loosens it up and makes it alot easier to knock through once the head is removed.
Ive used the cutoff wheel/grinding wheel method before but sometimes even w/ both heads ground off the rivet still wont come out, especially if youre just trying to knock a rivet through rather than removing a rivet and the piece that the rivet is holding on.

[HotRodYJ]

I use a grinder when I can and a sharp air chisel for the ones I can't get to with the grinder. The key on the air chisel is keeping the chisel sharp. A dull chisle won't cut anything. On the grinder just cut one of the heads off completely and grind it flush until you can see the outline of the actual hole, then knock the rivet thru with a punch.

[SCOTI]

Good question & great ideas.

What about the rivets on the trailing arm crossmember? How have any members here removed the rivets on these (since there's limited access to the tops of the rivets because of the body)?

I usually cut the rivet flush & then drive out the remaining portion w/the punch tip of my air hammer. But when going through several layers of steel, I've found the rivets like to get caught up between the subsequent layers. I would like to avoid this when laying under the truck.....

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Good question & great ideas.

What about the rivets on the trailing arm crossmember? How have any members here removed the rivets on these (since there's limited access to the tops of the rivets because of the body)?

I usually cut the rivet flush & then drive out the remaining portion w/the punch tip of my air hammer. But when going through several layers of steel, I've found the rivets like to get caught up between the subsequent layers. I would like to avoid this when laying under the truck.....

I would like to know this too, cuz I'm about to put in a new crossmember.

[project1968]

A good air chisel will make you put down the grinder and a bad one will make you pick it up. I have both and the bad one which is a craftsman wont cut butter, but my good one knocks the heads off in no time...and helps remove alot of rust and old crud. If you do decide to grind, make sure you protect your back glass..

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Good question & great ideas.

What about the rivets on the trailing arm crossmember? How have any members here removed the rivets on these (since there's limited access to the tops of the rivets because of the body)?

I usually cut the rivet flush & then drive out the remaining portion w/the punch tip of my air hammer. But when going through several layers of steel, I've found the rivets like to get caught up between the subsequent layers. I would like to avoid this when laying under the truck.....

I recently removed a trailing arm crossmember, granted the cab was off but I think it is still possible with the cab on. Anymore I use my plasma cutter for most everything, but I used to use a torch in the same way. I just burn both heads off and then blow a hole straight thru the center of the rivet. By doing this it relieves some of the outward pressure of the rivet on the hole thru both pieces. Then you can use a punch and hammer to knock the rest out.

On the trailing arm crossmember it may be easier to remove the bulk of it between the frame rails to allow better access to the rivets....that is assuming you aren't wanting to keep the crossmember. Also to eliminate damage to the underside of the cab from the torching of the rivets, just place a adequate size piece of steel between the top of the frame and the cab spaced up off of the frame.

[smoknbarrels]

I've used a torch for most of my rivits to tell you the truth, and since I put in a c-notch, shortened the frame, and knocked off the shock mounts...I think there are only about 3 rivits left!

but yea the torch was actually the fastest to be honest.. because when it was still hot, you could put a punch on that rivit, and even though it was sometimes squished between layers (like the ones holding the rear spring cups in) they will just fly outta there when you swing your mo fo hammer!
works best as a two man job though.

[Spray-Bomb]

Depending on where the rivits are, I use a 7" grinder & a punch
If I cant get a grinder to them, then I use a torch

[ripdog28]

you guys like making messes and getting hoses out huh?
Easiest way I have found is take a drill with a good size bit (forgot what size i used but a little smaller then the head) to one end of the rivet drill till your atleast into the frame and a hammer will knock off the head you drilled into and punch out the other.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ripdog28

you guys like making messes and getting hoses out huh?
Easiest way I have found is take a drill with a good size bit (forgot what size i used but a little smaller then the head) to one end of the rivet drill till your atleast into the frame and a hammer will knock off the head you drilled into and punch out the other.

A drill works for easily accessible rivets, but doesn't work well for the ones under the cab or inside the framerail.

[ripdog28]

True, I may have missed if he had a tight space but im thinking Frame Off which i am doing atm. I tend to relate to my own projects

Grinder and a air chisel/punch with an x in the head like jlarid said, easiest way i've found. If they are hard to get to or give me a hard time i just turn the plasma on them.

[scotts62]

Yep TH53, gotta love the Plasma's! dont know what id do without mine

[Riveted1]

Got under there today and took a good look at those top rivets on the trailing arm crossmember. Wow those look like a ***** to get out. I really don't want to take my cab off just to get at 4 rivets. Plasma is not an option for me, and a drill definitely won't fit in there. Anyone actually done this w/the cab on??

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

Got under there today and took a good look at those top rivets on the trailing arm crossmember. Wow those look like a ***** to get out. I really don't want to take my cab off just to get at 4 rivets. Plasma is not an option for me, and a drill definitely won't fit in there. Anyone actually done this w/the cab on??

Yes. It can be done. I used the X-then-chisel method. You can also use a 12" long drill bit through the lower holes to drill the uppers. It is a real PITA. It was the hardest part of my leaf to trailing arm project...

[67dragtruck]

Either early classic or cpp was advertising a super duper air chisel along with their parts and saying it sliced right through those rivets. Does a REALLY good one actually do them easily? The best way I have found is a plasma to knock the heads off followed by an air chisel to knock them out. I've removed one of the manual tranny crossmember in 5-10 minutes with that method. I no longer have a plasma so I'd love to buy a wicked air chisel if they are truly that good. Anyone?

[LONGHAIR]

There is definately a difference in a good air chisel. The cheapy/junk ones are not much more than a vibrator. You would think that this is really all there is to it...but apparently not. We tested a few of them several years ago at the shop where I worked. There was a big difference even using the same chisel.
I don't know why though? Longer stroke? more mass to the piston itself? What-ever it is, it matters.

you guys like making messes and getting hoses out huh?

An extension cord is really that much difference? Plus, you already have the air hose and air chisel (punch) to knock out the rest.

Easiest way I have found is take a drill with a good size bit (forgot what size i used but a little smaller then the head) to one end of the rivet drill till your atleast into the frame and a hammer will knock off the head you drilled into and punch out the other.

Spoken by a guy who can sharpen his own drill bits. You would be surprized by how many that can't.