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Old 12-14-2019, 07:44 PM   #1
Madkidd007
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70 C20 12v Cummins

$11000

I've had the truck for 15 years now and has a clean title. Factory C10 frame swapped to a correct 3/4 chassis. 92 12valve VE pump rebuilt & tuned, he341 turbo, a518 46rh overdrive trans, would hit 41 lbs of boost when the fresh pump was put on but have it backed down to a safe 35 pounds. Rear suspension is trailing arms with airbags which do not leak and front is from disc brakes are from a single wheel square body C30, with the weight of the Cummins it rides just like when it was 1/2 ton with a small block. 3" in and out intercooler with matching pipes. Truck has been overbuilt as I didn't want to have to fix anything. All parts are able to be store bought also, everything was centered around parts for a 1990 R20/R30 series truck to keep things simple and parts available without special order. I'll just list everything in addition to the above to keep questions to a minimal.

Ho52 Eaton rear axle with 4.10 locker, equivelant to a Dana 70(have an extra third member with a locker and 4.56 gears)

Not sure what all was done to the trans in its previous life but it has an aftermarket purple converter and has never slipped or had a sloppy gear change once. It definitely has some work done to it. Engine was all stock in a work truck with 135k miles when I got it.

Driveshaft is a 1 piece built by Nash truck parts with 1410 joint in the front and the stock 1350 at the axle

32.5” tires on 18x9 wheels

Aluminum radiator with 2 1.25" wide cores(stays under 175 in 90 degree weather) have a new thermostat just haven’t installed as it seems to run too cool

3.5" downpipe to 4" exhaust with a 5” tip that you can barely see

Injection pump has a new head/rotor assembly, new cam plate, 3200 governor spring.
15x.012 VCO nozzle on Bosch injectors from DAP
“The hungry diesel” high volume/low pressure piston pump

Timing advanced to 19-20 degrees(advanced one tooth at pump gear and pump pulled away from the head)

All last year didn’t have the grid heater hooked or used the block heater all the way down into the 20s and still fired off great. Verified last night the block heater does work.

EGTs will not go over 1250 no matter how long you stay in it, pushing 34.5-36 lbs of boost.
Spools almost instantly with the HE351 turbo

Group 31 battery mounted in proper plastic box inside of an old tool box in the bed.

Napa starter 6 months old

Full auto meter gauges(tach, trans temp, boost, pyro, water, oil pressure) trans temp I haven’t hooked up yet
All led dash lights, led interior and floor lights

Newish filters and fluids (trans, oil, fuel) only live a few miles from work

Hyrdroboost conversion using new factory replacement gm parts for a 90 model square body and factory hoses

Curt receiver hitch

Braided Teflon lined fuel supply lines

Clear headlights with HIDs

LED front running/turn signals and rear tail/brake lights

Factory Chrysler 140 amp alternator with internal regulator conversion

Carpet in good shape

Lokar cable shift conversion using stock automatic column(overdrive is a toggle as I never installed pressure switches to make it automatic)

New complete ac/heater wiring harness and box resealed years back, cables are under the dash but not hooked up as I didn’t have the retainer when replacing the heater core a couple months ago

Factory AC truck and compressor on engine, needs hoses made and a condenser to have working air

Heat and defrost does work

Wipers and even the windshield washer squirters work


Sony CD player with USB and Infinity 6x9s behind the seat in cab corners

2" body lift to clear drivetrain while keeping the low hump trans tunnel to keep maximum ground clearance and nothing hangs below the frame

KDP taken care of, new crank and timing cover seal

Needs a couple loose ends tied up(wires cleaned up but everything properly fused, bed wood replaced, 15 gallon fuel cell in the bed as I never bought a tank to go under the truck)
Needs door panels and previously had 6x9 speakers added in the lower doors but they are messed up. Seat has a torn spot that could still be repaired.

Mechanically it is right and no issues going down the highway at 75 MPH and will keep going right past that if you want

Rust issues are pictured and have been this way for the 15 plus years I’ve had the truck as it’s either been garaged or parked under cover. As you can see the inner rocker needs repair but not necessarily a full replacement. Outter rockers need replacing. The truck has its problems but nothing serious as I drive it over half of the week.

For sale ONLY, Wanting to sell to buy another vehicle that I have my eye on. unless you have a mid 60s Lincoln.

I know it’s a lot to read but I try to be very thorough on the good and the little bit of bad. I’ve towed 8k lbs a few times and it handles it great.
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Last edited by Madkidd007; 12-18-2019 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:46 PM   #2
Madkidd007
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

And the goods
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:08 PM   #3
kidatheart
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

Looks like a ton of fun! If only my lottery tickets would start paying off...
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Old 12-17-2019, 09:00 AM   #4
doo142
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

Price??
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Old 12-17-2019, 10:06 AM   #5
Madkidd007
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

Quote:
Originally Posted by doo142 View Post
Price??
Sorry asking $11

Last edited by Madkidd007; 12-18-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:42 PM   #6
Madkidd007
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

I do have a bunch of new parts, dash pad, arm rests, seals, various items. For the right price I’ll let extras go with it
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Old 01-14-2020, 10:51 PM   #7
Madkidd007
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Re: 70 C20 12v Cummins

If anyone is interested, still open to letting it go if it sells before the crew cab. But only selling 1 of the 2. Willing to talk numbers for the right person
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