47-55.1 Wheel Bearings on 1954 Chev 3100

[Darthintel]

Hello,
I just finished replacing all the brake hardware on my 1954 3100 truck, bled brakes , adjusted and drove around the block.
I heard a squealing when turning.
Pulled back in garage and noticed both hub dust covers are gone, and hubs hot.
Jacked up, and noticed the hubs are loose.
After removing the left tire and kotter pin, I could rotate the castle nut almost a 1/4 turn. Oh crap.
I removed the castle nut, washer. and the outer bearing balls fell out.
Left outer bearing shot. Pulled right side - same hub slop.
Bearing is still in tact.
I will replace the bearings, but now I'm questioning the installation / bearing preload procedure. I have done this in the past with no problems.
Hand rotate the hub while tightening down the castle nut until hub stops rotating, then back off the next kotter pin slot.
They both had a slight drag.
I installed the hub, outer bearing race, then the bearing with small end toward race, washer, then nut.

How many folks follow the manual? Tighten spindle nut to 33 ft. pounds, while rotating by hand with tire off, then back off spindle nut to next hole for kotter pin.
This seems too tight - but obviously I put together too loose.
The hub should still spin freely per the manual.

[nvrdone]

the first thing I would is replace the ball bearings with roller bearings. then adjust them as you have done in the past

[Darthintel]

Upon further investigation, I installed them backwards. The wide opening needs to go on the spindle which allows the balls to ride in the race.
If you install the other way, the metal cage hits the race causing squealing and heat.
I could have sworn this is how they came apart. I just bought this truck, and it was missing the kotter pins on the front castle nuts.

Pictures show wrong way and correct way.

[MiraclePieCo]

Easy mistake to make. Thanks for the follow up.

[MARTINSR]

I put a disc brake pad on backwards once........no kidding, so I can't knock anyone for a simple mistake that's for sure!

Yep, poo poo happens, finding the mistake is MUCH better than thinking we are perfect, never finding it and not knowing what caused the problem!

Glad you solved your problem!

Brian

[Darthintel]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

the first thing I would is replace the ball bearings with roller bearings. then adjust them as you have done in the past

How do I replace with roller bearings?
I'm having problems getting outer race installed.
I've never had this much trouble with bearings.

It looks like the previous owner installed the outer race backwards, and buggered up the surface. ( 1st and 3rd pictures )

I bought new bearings, and I can only see them going in 1 way.
(2nd picture)
This bugs me as it captures the outer bearing in the outer race. I always remember the outer bearing coming out before the hub.
Which is correct?

[mr48chev]

You can't or shouldn't be able to put it together if the race is installed backwards. Can you take a photo of the hub with that race in it? It should go together as your middle photo shows.

[Darthintel]

Here's a picture of how it was installed.
This is why when I put it back together, it squealed and destroyed the outer bearing after 50 feet.

I just don't remember the outer bearing being "captive" by the outer race.
I cannot find any documentation or drawings on how it goes back together. I have the Shop manual and the factory assembly manual - only how to set the torque on the spindle nut.

[mr48chev]

That was installed correctly. It has to go clear down and seat against the flat surface. I usually pack the ball bearing set it in the outer race, put a bit more grease in on the balls and then set the inner race in it. sometimes you have to jiggle the inner race because you have to find that spot the balls let the inner part of it slip past.

When you adjust it you want it to be neither tight nor loose. That is the way I was taught 55 years ago and it has worked well ever since. Tighten the nut on the spindle until it stops but you don't put any load against the bearing, back it off and go lightly until it stops but again no extra tightening, back it off to the next slot in the castle nut if you need to. As long as the bearing is good to start with and you packed it right you won't have any trouble.

As far as packing goes I put some grease in the palm of my off hand and pull the bearing though the grease pushing grease though the cage and around each ball or roller working my way around the bearing. Also I never upon never wash a bearing I intend to use again in solvent. You can't get all the solvent out and it prevents grease from sticking to the bearing right. The only ones that I wash are ones I want to show to a customer to show them that they were bad and had to be replaced.

[Darthintel]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That was installed correctly. It has to go clear down and seat against the flat surface. I usually pack the ball bearing set it in the outer race, put a bit more grease in on the balls and then set the inner race in it. sometimes you have to jiggle the inner race because you have to find that spot the balls let the inner part of it slip past.

When you adjust it you want it to be neither tight nor loose. That is the way I was taught 55 years ago and it has worked well ever since. Tighten the nut on the spindle until it stops but you don't put any load against the bearing, back it off and go lightly until it stops but again no extra tightening, back it off to the next slot in the castle nut if you need to. As long as the bearing is good to start with and you packed it right you won't have any trouble.

As far as packing goes I put some grease in the palm of my off hand and pull the bearing though the grease pushing grease though the cage and around each ball or roller working my way around the bearing. Also I never upon never wash a bearing I intend to use again in solvent. You can't get all the solvent out and it prevents grease from sticking to the bearing right. The only ones that I wash are ones I want to show to a customer to show them that they were bad and had to be replaced.

Wait a minute ...I think you pointed out something that makes total sense. Currently I'm sliding the small inner race onto the spindle first, then the hub and bearing as this is how it came apart. You are saying install the outer race as I found it, grease and place the bearing in the outer race, THEN slide the small inner race last, washer, nut.
This now make more sense. I think the small inner race was placed incorrectly - which is throwing me off!
Is this correct?

[mr48chev]

I went out and took some photos.
This axle doesn't have any brakes on it as I just stuck the hub on it a while back so I could bolt some wire wheels on the hub and check them for being straight and round.

The first photo shows the inner (meaning to the inside of the hub race on the spindle.
The second shows the bearing in the hub with the seal in place as I didn't pop the seal out.

Third shows the hub with the inner race in the seal on the hub. You can install it on the spindle either way not big deal. Some find it easier to slide the race on the spindle first. That is the inside.

[mr48chev]

This shows the outer side of the hub with the race in place.

The hub on the spindle with the ball bearing in place (no wheel bearing grease as I just put it on for show and tell).

The outer bearing with the inner race in place on the spindle.

With the nut on it. Finger tight as there was no need to adjust it.

[mr48chev]

I missed the shot with the washer in place.

You can assemble it which ever way is easier to deal with as long as you end up with the parts in the right spots and adjusted correctly.

[Darthintel]

Wow! Thanks you Mr48Chev! This is exactly what I needed!
When I pulled the hub off, the small inner race for the outer bearing was stuck on the axle shaft, as it was installed on the axle shaft first before the hub and bearing.

I bought new bearings today and will be installing tonight correctly. I'll take pictures along the way to add to this post that could possibly help others in the future.

[Darthintel]

Installed the new bearings correctly this time - oh what a difference!

Here are pictures of the installation.
Drove outer race for the outer bearing into the hub with the bearing race inward, and the thicker part of the race in first.
Hand packed the ball bearings (outer bearing by palm of my hand, and inner bearings by pressing with fingers.
Placed inner race on the spindle shaft.
Slid the hub on over the brake shoes, and pushed bearing seal into backing plate and made sure the bearing / race were put together correctly.
Installed the outer bearing into the outer race, small end in first. Slid inner race into the wide end of the bearing, followed by washer and nut. Hand tightened nut on and rotated hub to ensure bearings are seated correctly.
Slowly torqued the nut to 33ft pounds while rotating hub. After 33ft pounds was reached, loosened nut about 1 turn and re torqued to 33ft pounds while rotting.
Backed off spindle nut to next hole per the manual.
Spins smooth and no play in hub.