Help me wire up my 200-4R lockup

[rough69]

Just a few questions here as I'm hoping I can also help a few others save some money too.

Just pulled a 200-4R automatic from a '84 V8 Caddilac and it has low miles and looks to be in great shape.

I am running a Holley #3310 750 cfm carb on my 350 and want to get these Holley made TV cable brackets instead of the $100+ BTO kit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

With those can I hook up my TV cable and adjust it on my carb properly, without the need for a universal TV and the above mentioned expensive BTO kit?

My next question is how exactly should I wire up the converter lockup.

Does it operate the same as the 700R4? Because the only diagrams I have seen are for the 700.

Also, I have the 4 pin brake switch and could easily get the vacuum switch, do I just wire those through a key on 12V source to Pin A on the transmission or is it more complicated than that?

Basically I'm trying to use the parts I have (and I'm plenty competent with wiring) and make the lockup function properly in 4th gear and disconnect on braking & all that, for the least amount of cabbage.

THANK YOU! I can't wait for the OD! These 4.11 gears + TH350 have been killing me.

rough69

[nuke1]

i used the exact same pieces as those and they work fine with the original cable, and as for the wiring i just researched the h*ll out of it and wired it up myself.

[rough69]

I figured the TV stuff would work fine, that's good to know.

Did you wire a 2004R?

Again I am wondering how exactly to do mine because the only diagrams I see are for 700R4 and from looking at the 2004R valvebody it is a little different maybe?

I was guessing run the Key On 12V to the brake switch to the vac switch to Pin A like I stated earlier.

How did you wire yours?

[Vince M]

After I wired my 700r4 I learned a few things. The lock-up will happen once you enter fourth gear unless you've got a speed sensor of some kind. I would add a toggle switch to allow youself to engage the lock-up at will in fourth gear. Can't help you out with the 2004r questions but it's not all that complicated. Use a fused ignition souce also.

[rough69]

Well I think I am going to cave and just buy the $70 lockup kit from BTO since I figure I saved $70+ by getting the Holley TV brackets instead of the BTO TVmadeEZ kit that is over $100.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=341

But I still think it is a shame since I am wondering if my trans alrady has these parts installed (4/3 switch and internal solenoid) and I do have the 4 prong brake switch already...

Can any1 else chime in?

[Longhorn Man]

I would get a pressure guage and test the line pressure. The TV cable may feel right, but it could be way off and you won't know untill it craps out on you all together.

[rough69]

Point taken, I will probably pick one of those gauges up to see where the pressures are at. Does anyone know what the pressures should be on a 200-4R?

I'm still contemplating just hooking up the 4-prong brake switch I have now and seeing if that works the lockup stock and save me $70...

[rough69]

Well I picked up and installed my Holley brackets today.

They look like they will work fine but I have a few concerns.

I did not touch the TV setting from the stock Caddy I pulled the trans out of and the TV cable settings are ~3.2" to 4" at W.O.T.

The Holley brackets seem to measure out to 4.5" to 5.2" WOT.

Will the stock TV cable adjust out another inch so the Holley brackets will work?

Also, I have PM'd a few 200-R4 swappers with no response but I am wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram or schematic of how to wire up the stock 4 prong brake switch and vacuum switch to operate my TCC lockup properly.

Trans goes in tomorrow either way!

[Morgsie]

- brake switch, this is so when you hit the brakes doing highway speeds it will unlock your TC. Don't be lame and put a toggle switch in to control the TC! I got mine out of an 84 Monte carlo, it was the same thread as the brake switch in my 64 Impala so it should be the same in your truck. When you go looking for one, get the one with 4 wires. 2 wires for brake lights and 2 wires for TC. The 2 wires for TC will have power going to it all the times, when you hit the brakes it interrupts the flow and unlocks the TC.

from:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...69&postcount=5

Very easy to wire up, you'll need the vacuum switch, which basically allows lockup once you're engine has warmed up (you'll need the according temp/vacuum sensor/switch/whatever you want to call it, mine is white). The blue wire runs to the brake switch and the other runs to the tranny. Use a multimeter to figure out what wire you need to use for brakes (power on when button depressed) and the TC (power interrupted when button depressed).

[lamar]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I would get a pressure guage and test the line pressure. The TV cable may feel right, but it could be way off and you won't know untill it craps out on you all together.

I agree with Longhorn Man on the line pressure as I'm on my second 700r4 for that very reason. I bought the lockup kit for my second 700r4 from Bowtie, I know it costs a little more but it was simple and straight foward. The people at Bowtie are also very helpfull with any and all questions that you my have. Good luck.

[72hotrod]

You don't neede the vacuum switch.It's good to have one as it's for unlocking the converter clutch with low vacuum(mild acceleration without kickdown). The brake switch is for unlocking the clutch on braking to avoid stalling the engine. There are various configurations of pressure valves in the trans that control lockup function, you just want to have lockup in OD, and unlock on braking as a minimum. The BTO stuff makes eveything simple and right, but if you have the time to learn how it all works,how to fab and source the stuff you need, how to set it up right , etc. you don't need BTO. But they are a great choice for a hassle free installation and worth the money for me.

[rough69]

Originally Posted by 72hotrod

You don't neede the vacuum switch.It's good to have one as it's for unlocking the converter clutch with low vacuum(mild acceleration without kickdown). The brake switch is for unlocking the clutch on braking to avoid stalling the engine. There are various configurations of pressure valves in the trans that control lockup function, you just want to have lockup in OD, and unlock on braking as a minimum. The BTO stuff makes eveything simple and right, but if you have the time to learn how it all works,how to fab and source the stuff you need, how to set it up right , etc. you don't need BTO. But they are a great choice for a hassle free installation and worth the money for me.

Awesome post thank you, I am looking to do just that.

In fact what I am looking to do in a bit is take a pic of the internal wiring on the valve body and figure out whether it is made from the factory to lock in 2/3/4, 3/4 or just 4. As mentioned trans was out of a 84 V8 Cadillac.

I am confident with the wiring and will probably just run the brake switch that I already have to pin A. The plug does have 3 wires on it from the donor car so I read that I might have to ground pin D as well. I like saving money instead of going BTO.

Also, I am thinking that a 700R4 TV cable will give me the perfect extra length
I am looking for and want to snag one out of a Camaro soon.

On the plus side, trans is in and fit up great!

[rough69]

Some pics and new thoughts:

Trans fit up great, crossmember works awesome in the stock TH400 holes and my recently reworked stock driveshaft fits perfect!

From taking a look at the valve body wiring finally now I can se that the pressure solenoid has 2 wires (+RED - BLK on the top of it) and the switch has one wire going to it that feeds directly into Pin B?

The pinout is

AB
CD

right?

So anyways I am thinking of wiring my lockup as follows:

Jumper pin A+B together -- to the brake switch -- to key on 12V

Pin C looks to be an external ground for the pressure solenoid (BLACK wire) so I will need to ground Pin C right?

Then I will be done right being as it seems the vacuum switch is really not necessary.

Can anyone tell from this wiring shown whether this is the setup to lockup in 4th gear only or 3/4 2/3/4 etc.???

Also, for those wondering, the 200-4R TV cable extended the extra inch and is adjusted properly, I even checked it at the valve under the car with someone else pressing the gas.

Thanks again,
rough69

[VetteVet]

Here's a good website for 2004rs.
http://members.aol.com/powerrslid/thm2004r.html