1969 Blazer...To be my daily driver

[DustinU]

Thanks I had to break my silver or graphite rut I had been stuck in for the last three trucks I have owned.
Yes if has the factory sag in the rear, I am not sure if I like it or not yet... if I end up wanting it level I too will go with 2" front springs. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the rear are a little more "broke in" than the front.

[BOHICA]

I was thinking I read that here, but couldn't remember. It's untelling how long mine have been installed. Couple years I'd say, but the u bolts still look almost new. That's the only good thing about my truck being stripped - the back was so light that I don't think the springs have sagged at all. The PO must have put them on and then lost interest for some reason. I suspect it has to do with the truck's inability to turn the steering wheel to the right past center.

Not sure what color I'll paint mine. Or what interior to go with. I think I'll just Krylon it for my road trip. That way I won't cry if I get some trail rash.

[29od1]

Update on front drivers seat bracket. Some before, during and after pics. Don't pay any attention to the FWD marking on the rear part of the new bracket...obviously I didn't! It was symmetric before I added the cutout to clear the floor hump and was installed under the seat when I marked it for the floor so I couldn't see the markings I had made.

[DustinU]

Looks GREAT 29od1, Thank you! I can't wait to see them in the Blazer. 29od1 had fabbed the 2008 2nd row captain seat brackets previously, he was kind enough to help me out and let me hire him to fab mine.

I pulled my old motor last week and put the crate engine in but couldn't get it to fire, bought a new dizzy yesterday... the fix she needed! Cam is broken in and running great.

I did a very quick once over on the engine compartment before, rerouted some wires, taped them up, new hoses and grommets, etc. I used some cleaner/degreaser and several cans of the low gloss black (satin) dupli-color engine paint. Looks good, not a show truck, but a good looking driver/off-roader.

I am sanding the bed/cab then I am spraying Al's liner today/tomorrow... My Brother pulled the seat out of his Jimmy so I can finish the break in and take it to get the cage built.

Couple of friends helping me with the pull:






I will take some after pics of the engine today and post them tonight.

[DustinU]

So down the line I may want to dress it up a bit with so chrome etc, but for the time being... (I didn't finish until after dark, I will take better pics tomorrow)

[hgs_notes]

Looks like a good install. The main thing is that it runs. Are you going to spray a coat of primer on the bed before the liner or spray it as is?

[DustinU]

I agree, it runs, that . I made a bracket that I don't like for the fuel line (modified old spark plug wire holder) it will eventually wear into the fuel line.
I will prime the floor pan before spraying, bought the kit which includes primer. I also bought the additional flattener for a well, flatter finish (flat/satin vs semi gloss).

[hgs_notes]

I'll be doing ls Liner very soon also. Started prepping the bed saturday. One tip I got from another board member is that it will spray smoother if you open the trigger further and have more texture with less trigger pull. I got the rubber additive for mine but not the flattener, and I bought some tint to match my paint. What color are you doing?

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I'll be doing ls Liner very soon also. Started prepping the bed saturday. One tip I got from another board member is that it will spray smoother if you open the trigger further and have more texture with less trigger pull. I got the rubber additive for mine but not the flattener, and I bought some tint to match my paint. What color are you doing?

I am going with black. Thanks for the tip, I will be searching out different techniques for different textures. I am pretty much just doing this as a heat and noise (I know they make HNR specific) or if I want to pull the carpet out in the future. It will be nice to know that if i get hit with rain or soak the carpet there is some protection for the floor. I just finished grinding off the old liner of some sort (It was a pain to get off) and going to lacquer thinner tonight. Should hopefully spray tomorrow or Thursday.

[29od1]

It looks like you have a good start on your engine and liner!

I finished the brackets and just need to blast them today and they'll be on their way to sunny California on Monday morning.

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by 29od1

It looks like you have a good start on your engine and liner!

I finished the brackets and just need to blast them today and they'll be on their way to sunny California on Monday morning.

Those look GREAT! Your timing also couldn't be better, I just grabbed the seat from my brothers Jimmy for the exhaust, not having the seats in forces me to get the small stuff done also (much needed).
I need the new seats in before the cage fabrication for clearances and the 3 point seat belt anchor locations.

Thank you again!

[OldCreek]

When I used Al's Liner on the entire inner cab/bed of the K5 it took about 1 & 1/2 kits. I sprayed it on thick...should have sprayed it on thin. Thick caused lots of bare spots that took more of the Liner to cover. Also, I probably should have primed it since the original ochre floor color showed through the bare spots....well, actually, maybe that was a good thing to let me know where I missed.

I guess what I'm saying is that you may need more than one kit...

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

When I used Al's Liner on the entire inner cab/bed of the K5 it took about 1 & 1/2 kits. I sprayed it on thick...should have sprayed it on thin. Thick caused lots of bare spots that took more of the Liner to cover. Also, I probably should have primed it since the original ochre floor color showed through the bare spots....well, actually, maybe that was a good thing to let me know where I missed.

I guess what I'm saying is that you may need more than one kit...

Thanks OldCreek, I actually started with 2 gallons of Al's Liner and it wasn't enough. I put it on fairly thick, but my plan of attack wasn't well thought out. For anyone doing this in the future... Mix maybe half a gallon first, get in and get the corners and hard spots (nooks and crannies) from the center of the bed, then under the rail with whats left of that half gallon (do this last or you may spill it, ask me how I know . Then mix the next full gallon and go after it, leaving the last half a gallon for thin parts and touch up places you may have missed. That is what I would do if I had another shot at it anyway.
My third gallon is on the way for touch ups etc. I ended up using the medium tip on the $20 harbor freight gun, adjusted the trigger pull as hgs_notes suggested and only used half the flattener per gallon, I like it. It is raining so I will take pics tomorrow.

I only used the etching primer on the bare metal areas, otherwise I just scuffed the paint and cleaned it very well with lacquer thinner per the instructions. It was very easy to do and would recommend it so far.

[mustardjimmy71]

I have the 350/290hp in my caprice. IMO, great motor for a runner, or a base for a build up. Ive got about 15,000 highway miles on it and it just purs like a kitten and it puts along great. On powerblock tv's website they put the edelbrock top end kit #2099 and it made 411hp/435tq on 87 octane.

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by mustardjimmy71

I have the 350/290hp in my caprice. IMO, great motor for a runner, or a base for a build up. Ive got about 15,000 highway miles on it and it just purs like a kitten and it puts along great. On powerblock tv's website they put the edelbrock top end kit #2099 and it made 411hp/435tq on 87 octane.

I will check this kit out. I won't be making any changes until she becomes my weekend car and competition with the 65 Malibu SS.

Here are some updated pics of where it's at now.










I just got the exhaust done yesterday, I went from duals to a single out the drivers side (more torque and helps keeps the heat away from the transfer case). I bought the 3rd row seat brackets off ebay from (custom manufacturing) they are made extremely well and are the "universal" option that are a little taller for trucks like ours that don't have the Tahoe divets in the floor. I reinforced the brackets using large steel plates underneath and grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. The instructions they came with were excellent as well. The seats have room to be adjusted/centered between the wheels, I just put them in to check it out real quick. New steering stabilizer, Rancho RS5000 to match the shocks, found one brand new in an opened box on ebay for $2.31, $15 total with shipping. The front seat brackets are coming back tomorrow from 29od1 and I will be installing those tomorrow. Saturday I am taking it to have the cage installation completed... cant wait then I can start driving here around

[DustinU]

So it has been a while since I had any updates. I had the cage made, front seats finished and bought parts, lots of parts. Pulled everything out to install the fatmat, carpet, paint the cage, dash/instrument panel work etc. Found out that the door hinges were worn out, after pulling the doors I found a lot of rusted out metal and large amounts of bondo. Doors were cracked near the hinge mount locations, the bottom of the doors are pretty shot. I focused on the hinge area with plans to take off and repair the doors properly later.

Here is the cage, a big thanks to Steve at roughneckoffroad.com for doing a great job fabbing it up, it turned out great!




Rattle canned it with VHT Roll bar epoxy paint, satin black.







I bought a beat up hard top and cut the front 1' off and plan to fiberglass it and use the factory mounting positions, then I will screw the snaps to that vs drilling into the windshield ( I think I read that on one of VTBlazers posts). I will have a custom bimini made for just the top of the cage, kinda like a boat I guess, no sides.


Here is a little bit of the door issues...



Part of the cracking looks like it comes from people (passenger side was worse) using the door to gain entry in to the truck... I think the grab handles Steve installed on the cage should prevent that problem from reoccurring.

[VA72C10]

Seats and cage look great.

[29od1]

Dustin it's looking good man!

For these Blazers, the doors work as a structural part of the tub and provide some additional bending capability when the top is off. So if the previous owner had the top off and was wheeling it and got it into a bind, it may have cracked the door at the hinge mount. Although the pickups crack out there too from the hinges not being oiled and the door getting hard to open and forcing them. Anyway, that cage will definitely stiffen up the tub in the door opening area and help out a lot when you off road it.

Glad to see your making good progress and getting to enjoy it. Nothing better than cruizing around with the top off!

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by 29od1

Dustin it's looking good man!

For these Blazers, the doors work as a structural part of the tub and provide some additional bending capability when the top is off. So if the previous owner had the top off and was wheeling it and got it into a bind, it may have cracked the door at the hinge mount. Although the pickups crack out there too from the hinges not being oiled and the door getting hard to open and forcing them. Anyway, that cage will definitely stiffen up the tub in the door opening area and help out a lot when you off road it.

Glad to see your making good progress and getting to enjoy it. Nothing better than cruizing around with the top off!

That makes perfect sense and I know the PO wheeled it with no top on, good call!

And thank you both for the compliments.

[29od1]

That cage looks like a really good solid design. That's a nice feature that he put in floor mounts so you can unbolt it and remove it if you want. How much do you think it weighs and what kind of tubing did he use?

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by 29od1

That cage looks like a really good solid design. That's a nice feature that he put in floor mounts so you can unbolt it and remove it if you want. How much do you think it weighs and what kind of tubing did he use?

Steve used DOM .120 wall 1 3/4", 1" for grab handles and I wanted 1" across the dash pad. Yes it is has floor plates and plates underneath as well. My floor is solid. When looking into cages I was concerned about not going to frame until I saw the jeep roll overs and others with just a hoop that did their job. Steve told me about a guy that rolled one of his cages off a large drop and walked away from it.
I like the "sporty" rake on the back vs squared off. I cant wait to get it in and get some pics that aren't on my driveway, lol.

My guess on weight, honestly don't know maybe 200-250 lbs. My Brother and I can move it pretty easy... into the truck a third person will make things smoother. If it is not lighter than the hard top, I would be surprised.

[DustinU]

Made some progress yesterday, Fatmat, Jute, carpet, seat belts and cage installed. It was late so no pics of carpet and cage yet.



I used strips of jute to help level out the floor in front of rear seat and cargo area.



I used the scrap jute under the rear seat...recycling

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by DustinU

Made some progress yesterday, Fatmat, Jute, carpet, seat belts and cage installed. It was late so no pics of carpet and cage yet.



I used strips of jute to help level out the floor in front of rear seat and cargo area.



I used the scrap jute under the rear seat...recycling

That looks really nice. Quite Riot..How hard is it getting the Fatman down in the grooves.

[DustinU]

Originally Posted by notsolo

That looks really nice. Quite Riot..How hard is it getting the Fatman down in the grooves.

Not bad at all, I ditched the supplied roller after about 2 minutes. I have a small plastic dead blow hammer I used instead and just used that to press the Fatmat down (sliding, not hammering of coarse), I did it at night (probably 65 degrees out or so). It wasn't hard, just took several hours. I can't compare it but I think it liked the liner to get a solid grab due to the texture.

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by DustinU

Not bad at all, I ditched the supplied roller after about 2 minutes. I have a small plastic dead blow hammer I used instead and just used that to press the Fatmat down (sliding, not hammering of coarse), I did it at night (probably 65 degrees out or so). It wasn't hard, just took several hours. I can't compare it but I think it liked the liner to get a solid grab due to the texture.

Thanks Dustin it is going to be sweet with carpet over it. ...I removed pad under the dash and did 2 layers of EZ cool...it worked out good.....Ed