The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > Info Center > FAQ Truck Tech > Interior

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-20-2004, 10:43 PM   #1
chickenwing
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
 
chickenwing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,938
Upholstery install instructions

Ran a search. Saw no how to's or hints. Gettin ready to install my Houndstooth cover. Came with no instructions. Anyone still have the instructions that came with theirs?
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!
chickenwing is offline  
Old 10-21-2004, 10:29 PM   #2
purple gas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
Posts: 614
Did it at least come with clips, or hog rings? When I did the seats in my Bug, I started from the centre, and worked my way to the sides. (comon practice in upholtery) . An extra set of hands is always good too.Some strong spring clamps ( clean & not poky)can be handy to hold things on so you can get a look at how things are linning up. Getting seams to line up with contours can be tricky, go slow, and drink DeCafe.. Like my dad used to say, " don't get rammy"
purple gas is offline  
Old 10-21-2004, 10:49 PM   #3
chickenwing
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
 
chickenwing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,938
Nope. No hog rings. Size recommendaton for the hog rings?
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!
chickenwing is offline  
Old 10-22-2004, 01:38 PM   #4
purple gas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
Posts: 614
my stock seats, I have several, used a small clip to fasten the bottom on. A pinch clip kind of device that held the fabric on metal parts, Hog rings are a simple yet effective wire type fastener. you can buy them at upholstery supply shops ( or even some sewing centres have them, I'd check the yellow pages, and make a few calls) they take a special plyer type tool to squeeze them on. Not sure what you got, but many aftermarket seat upholstery is more or less like a glorified seat cover. When installing them you want them tight enough so when they stretch a bit, they won't look loose,, but not so tight as to strain & tear seams or fastening points on the seat part (The more fasteners, the less strain on each point). Some backs simply slide over. if you can, look at an old stock seat ( or remove your own, if you don't have a spare). Once you see how they did it at the factory you can compare your covers and see if it's a basic remove & replace. If it is maybe you can remove your old fasteners and re-use them. Just remember work from the centre to the edges, or you'll have a wrinkly mess.. Hope this is helping you. If I can figure out the wife's new digital cam, and how to post pics I'll show some pictures.
purple gas is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 10:13 AM   #5
purple gas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
Posts: 614
I checked an old stock seat. Looks like they didn't use hog rings, just little pinch clips mad of spring steel. If your careful you should be able to pry them off and re-use them. If your new cover is the same as the old one, dimension wise. I'll experiment after I've had a few coffee's, and get back to you. But I think they just tap into place, once you have the fabric where you want it.
purple gas is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 10:57 AM   #6
Tx Firefighter
Watch out for your cornhole !
 
Tx Firefighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 14,059
Hog rings are available by the pound from any local upholstery supply house if you decide to use some.
__________________
Kevin -

My Instagram
Tx Firefighter is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 10:54 PM   #7
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
I have done 2 seats this summer and am not an expert but here is how it went for me.
First if you don't have an upholstry shop to get hog rings do what I did and go to farm store. Hog rings are just what they say. They use them in the noses of hogs. I got the smallest which were #1 rings. Usally come at least 100 to box . They should also carry hog ring pliers for the installation. Buy the cheapest set as the more expensive ones just have fancier spring back springs. I have shown pic of how they set in pliers
Attached Images
  
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 10:57 PM   #8
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
Now reamove old seat tracks and 2 bolts each side holding 2 seat pieces together.May have to clip some of the old hog rings underneath to get at side bolts
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 10:59 PM   #9
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
Once the you have two seperate seats start wire cuting the old hog rings. There are a bunch on both halves. Take abreak half way through or your hands will be sore
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:01 PM   #10
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
then once all the rings are cut slowly work the covers off the top and bottom seats and lay them out flat
Attached Images
  
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:04 PM   #11
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
now layout your new cover next to your old cover and remove the wires and replace in new seat cover as you remove each one so you remember where they go. the wires are tucked inside the little white flaps on the edges of the cover. some pull out easy others you have to cut out because they maybe rust in there
Attached Images
  
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:06 PM   #12
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
try to make sure you get the lower corner wires from the seat back oriented the sameas they come out. thats why I say do each wire remove and replace in new
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:11 PM   #13
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
Now heres where the experts may better help you but I started eith seat bottom and hog ringed from middle front to both sides. The front bar probably has holes in it that you will see for the hog ring location. Make sure to hog ring through wire and then through holes in bar
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:16 PM   #14
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
once you have worked your way aound front and sides then you can pull the lower seat cover tight across back and hog ring there also. I believe it just rings to a straight wire across the back. Once again make sure to go through the wire in the pockets when you squeeze the rings
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:23 PM   #15
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
Now slip the top cover over the top half and hog ring it the same.I think I did top middle to sides then sides ,then bottom pulled tight Do not hog ring the 2 corner wires yet or you will not be able to reassemble the 2 halves of the seat. Once the 2 halves are ringed then put the 2 together and assemble 2 side bolts on each side.
Once the 2 side bolts are assembled then hog ring the 2 corner flaps over the 2 side bolts to hide on each side.
Attached Images
 
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

Last edited by Solver; 10-24-2004 at 02:47 AM.
Solver is offline  
Old 10-23-2004, 11:30 PM   #16
Solver
Registered User
 
Solver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
Final tips
make sure you do this in a warm location, I even layed the new covers in the sun for an hour to warm up as they stretch so much better.
make sure when you pull the new covers over the old foam that the foam doesn't shift on you.
remove and replace each wire as pulled
hog rings are cheap and the more there are the less stress on any one ring .
also if yours is like mine when you get the two halves done and back together there may be some gap between upper and lower halves at back but after a day of setting that gap goes away as the foam fills back out and the covers stretch.
Hope this helps and I hope some of the more knowledgeable ones will pipe in with more suggestions
take your time and stretch slowly.
__________________
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red
  • 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green
  • 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White
  • 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper
  • 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black
  • 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue
  • 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green
  • 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver
  • 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green
  • 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon
Solver is offline  
Old 10-25-2004, 01:02 PM   #17
70c10
67-72 Addict!
 
70c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
When you do this job, I would recommend placing a piece of tweed material between the springs and the foam to lessen the wear of the foam. This is cheap and easy insurance!.
__________________
Jim

1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames
Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked)
355/350 Turbo w/shift kit
10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall
Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1
Performer RPM Air-Gap
12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi
Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads
70c10 is offline  
Old 01-30-2005, 12:39 PM   #18
saxmo
Senior Member
 
saxmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cleveland, Texas
Posts: 298
I have also seen people use a tight-fitting barbage bag over the jute, so the cover "slides" on easier.
__________________
2004 Corvette Coupe Black LS1 (daily driver)
1973 Ford Bronco (resto/mod @ 95%)
1991 GMC sportside Pickup Truck, 468c.i.d. ('nuff said)
1997 Ford F150 4.2L 500k+ miles (trash hauler)
2011 Nissan Juke (wife's daily driver)
1943 Ford GPW WWII jeep (waiting its' turn)
saxmo is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 11:21 AM   #19
chickenwing
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
 
chickenwing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,938
I finally got to this project. It's all complete now and a special thanks to Solver for the how-to.
I found some burlap at wallyworld. I spray glued that to the back of both foam inserts. The seat cushions were pretty well worn. I had some 1/4" foam laying about. I had one 6" long split in the seat bottom. I rolled some of the 1/4" foam into a glue-soaked tube and stuffed it into the crack. The crack was in a large wear indentation. I cut 1/4" foam to fit these larger wear spots and spray glued it in. I then used some 1"x24"x96" (wallyworld) foam glued over the top of that. The 1" foam formed pretty well over the rounded areas on the front and side. A heat gun helped nurse it into shape. I just directed the heat on the outside of the bends. I used various objects to hold the foam in place while the glue set. Was kinda scared of fire. The glue stated it was highly flammable. Kept a fire extinguisher nearby.

I used new wire instead of the old ones. They were rusted pretty good so I thought it was a good idea. The bailing wire came from a carboard box crusher. It was heavy gauge stuff and not the safety-wire thin stuff I remember my grand-pa calling bailing wire. As Solver noted, keeping the foam in place while fitting the cover was a pain. Just keep on stuffing, making sure the foam is all the way at the top of the seat cover.

Had a broken seat track and broken side bolster springs too. I had another set of tracks. I blasted em in my blast cabinet primed and painted em 3 times ala flat black spray bomb. The bailing wire worked good for the seat adjuster also. For the springs, I lucked out and road-found a late 70's middle bench out of a blazer/burb. I took the side springs I needed from it, cut a link out and they fit perfectly! I have pics if they didn't get deleted by accident. (Edit: They did. Sorry.)

I have these pics for now. Gonna post some more of the broken side bolster springs later. Some of you may remember my youngest daughter, Rebecca. The boys name is John. He goes to school with my oldest daughter, Elise. John, had a real blast helping with this project. I turned him loose on the mig when we were done. ...Can't get rid of him now!
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

Last edited by chickenwing; 05-16-2005 at 01:15 PM.
chickenwing is offline  
Closed Thread

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2013 67-72chevytrucks.com