Boxing Frame - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pgf545 · 11-04-2006, 04:38 PM

What is you guys thoughts on boxing the frame. I know on some of the older car that is a common practice. Dad and I were discussing doing that on his truck and I want some opinions on that. Thanks Bernie

cajundragger · 11-04-2006, 11:58 PM

Im going to box mine from the cores upport crossmember to the rear most crossmember....

dwcsr · 11-05-2006, 02:39 AM

The frame when new was more than enough for a big block, but after 50 years of flexing it needs some help. I would at least box the front end area and the section over the rear axle. One word of advice is do only 1- 2" welds spaced at 6" apart. Let it cool for several hours to hand touch. Then do 1-2" welds in between that and so on. You will warp the frame if you get to quick and run beads longer than 2". Its a real PIA to get it back again. Don't ask how I know that.

entourageguy · 11-05-2006, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwcsr

The frame when new was more than enough for a big block, but after 50 years of flexing it needs some help. I would at least box the front end area and the section over the rear axle. One word of advice is do only 1- 2" welds spaced at 6" apart. Let it cool for several hours to hand touch. Then do 1-2" welds in between that and so on. You will warp the frame if you get to quick and run beads longer than 2". Its a real PIA to get it back again. Don't ask how I know that.

Sorry I gotta ask "how do you know?"
Brian..

cajundragger · 11-05-2006, 11:42 AM

I agree...with a sharpie mark 2 inch spaces seperated by 6 inches spaces...weld in the 2 inch spaces....then let it cool past hand touch. Remember that metal doesnt warp from being hot...it warps when cooling. So even if you feel your not getting it that hot, it may still warp. Then weld in the middle of the 6 inch gaps. Then weld in one of the 2 inch gaps. Then weld it and finish it. Something else is to after you weld your 2 inch spots, go and grind them smooth. That way you dont get much weld on top of another and if you grind the little pieces down, it wont be hard at the end to finish everything...

chevyrestoguy · 11-05-2006, 12:03 PM

I boxed mine from the transition point of the Camaro clip to the rear bumper points with 3/16ths plate. Grind a bevel on the edge of the frame and also on your boxing plate to make a channel for the weld bead. This will ensure good penetration and also make dressing down the welds easier. Definately space the welds as everyone has mentioned, and come back and slowly fill the open spaces until it's fully welded. Use a grinder to knock down the heavy spots, and come back with a sander and put a nice radius on your welded edge. You'll be amazed at how much it strengthens the frame and helps ride quality and handling. Plus, it looks professional.
________
Ls650

dwcsr · 11-05-2006, 05:12 PM

I split my rails from the crossmembers and welded on the plates. I did one rail in about an hour and then the other again in an hour. Came out to start on the crossmembers the next day and they had both bent inward 6 inches across the entire length and twisted about 2 inches front to back.

I had to place welds on the out sides of the rails in specific spots to walk it back into shape and remove the twist. The place in the cross members and grind off the welds. That whole process took about 40 hrs and I still need to put it on a frame rack to get it exact.

bondobob · 11-09-2006, 02:12 PM

I boxed my '57 from front to back and replaced the stock crossmembers with 2" X4" braced tubing, notched over the axle and added some 2" X 2" diagonal bracing. Believe me, it's stiff!! Unless I have my four jack stands exactly the right height it will tetter totter on opposite corners. I used 3/16" for everything. My old '66 was so flexible I vowed to never have that again. You can still see the temporary bracing I added front and rear to keep things straight. It's square and level within 1/16". Do it!

cajundragger · 11-09-2006, 10:14 PM

thats what Im doing with mine. I hope to hit sides and everything with my truck bagged, and thats hell on a braced frame....

DEALER1 · 11-19-2006, 02:01 AM

Mine is boxed front to rear. If nothing else it looks cool.

1-ton of fun · 11-20-2006, 01:53 PM

does anybody know of a place that sells pre cut boxing plates?

mine would be for a '59 3/4 ton (longbed)

kgwest · 11-20-2006, 02:08 PM

Try the guys at Progressive Automotive.
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/Boxing.htm

dwcsr · 11-20-2006, 08:50 PM

I got mine from them. They fit pretty good

1-ton of fun · 11-21-2006, 11:16 AM

hopefully there won't be problems as mine is a 3/4 ton longbed. i'll give them a call

11-04-2006, 04:38 PM	#1
pgf545 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Santa Fe,Texas Posts: 933	Boxing Frame What is you guys thoughts on boxing the frame. I know on some of the older car that is a common practice. Dad and I were discussing doing that on his truck and I want some opinions on that. Thanks Bernie __________________ 52 Chevy Truck (Dad's) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206021

11-04-2006, 11:58 PM	#2
cajundragger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: louisiana Posts: 1,008	Re: Boxing Frame Im going to box mine from the cores upport crossmember to the rear most crossmember....

11-05-2006, 02:39 AM	#3
dwcsr Hollister Road Co. Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Houston Posts: 6,134	Re: Boxing Frame The frame when new was more than enough for a big block, but after 50 years of flexing it needs some help. I would at least box the front end area and the section over the rear axle. One word of advice is do only 1- 2" welds spaced at 6" apart. Let it cool for several hours to hand touch. Then do 1-2" welds in between that and so on. You will warp the frame if you get to quick and run beads longer than 2". Its a real PIA to get it back again. Don't ask how I know that.

11-05-2006, 11:42 AM	#5
cajundragger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: louisiana Posts: 1,008	Re: Boxing Frame I agree...with a sharpie mark 2 inch spaces seperated by 6 inches spaces...weld in the 2 inch spaces....then let it cool past hand touch. Remember that metal doesnt warp from being hot...it warps when cooling. So even if you feel your not getting it that hot, it may still warp. Then weld in the middle of the 6 inch gaps. Then weld in one of the 2 inch gaps. Then weld it and finish it. Something else is to after you weld your 2 inch spots, go and grind them smooth. That way you dont get much weld on top of another and if you grind the little pieces down, it wont be hard at the end to finish everything...

11-05-2006, 12:03 PM	#6
chevyrestoguy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: apple valley, ca Posts: 2,670	Re: Boxing Frame I boxed mine from the transition point of the Camaro clip to the rear bumper points with 3/16ths plate. Grind a bevel on the edge of the frame and also on your boxing plate to make a channel for the weld bead. This will ensure good penetration and also make dressing down the welds easier. Definately space the welds as everyone has mentioned, and come back and slowly fill the open spaces until it's fully welded. Use a grinder to knock down the heavy spots, and come back with a sander and put a nice radius on your welded edge. You'll be amazed at how much it strengthens the frame and helps ride quality and handling. Plus, it looks professional. ________ Ls650 Last edited by chevyrestoguy; 02-18-2011 at 10:55 AM.

11-05-2006, 05:12 PM	#7
dwcsr Hollister Road Co. Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Houston Posts: 6,134	Re: Boxing Frame I split my rails from the crossmembers and welded on the plates. I did one rail in about an hour and then the other again in an hour. Came out to start on the crossmembers the next day and they had both bent inward 6 inches across the entire length and twisted about 2 inches front to back. I had to place welds on the out sides of the rails in specific spots to walk it back into shape and remove the twist. The place in the cross members and grind off the welds. That whole process took about 40 hrs and I still need to put it on a frame rack to get it exact. Last edited by dwcsr; 11-05-2006 at 05:13 PM.

11-09-2006, 02:12 PM	#8
bondobob Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Deep River, Ct Posts: 135	Re: Boxing Frame I boxed my '57 from front to back and replaced the stock crossmembers with 2" X4" braced tubing, notched over the axle and added some 2" X 2" diagonal bracing. Believe me, it's stiff!! Unless I have my four jack stands exactly the right height it will tetter totter on opposite corners. I used 3/16" for everything. My old '66 was so flexible I vowed to never have that again. You can still see the temporary bracing I added front and rear to keep things straight. It's square and level within 1/16". Do it! Attached Images

11-09-2006, 10:14 PM	#9
cajundragger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: louisiana Posts: 1,008	Re: Boxing Frame thats what Im doing with mine. I hope to hit sides and everything with my truck bagged, and thats hell on a braced frame....

11-19-2006, 02:01 AM	#10
DEALER1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Huntsville Alabama Posts: 48	Re: Boxing Frame Mine is boxed front to rear. If nothing else it looks cool.

11-20-2006, 01:53 PM	#11
1-ton of fun polishing a turd Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: houston, tx Posts: 674	Re: Boxing Frame does anybody know of a place that sells pre cut boxing plates? mine would be for a '59 3/4 ton (longbed)

11-20-2006, 02:08 PM	#12
kgwest Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wendell/Archer Lodge, NC Posts: 5	Re: Boxing Frame Try the guys at Progressive Automotive. http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/Boxing.htm

11-20-2006, 08:50 PM	#13
dwcsr Hollister Road Co. Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Houston Posts: 6,134	Re: Boxing Frame I got mine from them. They fit pretty good

11-21-2006, 11:16 AM	#14
1-ton of fun polishing a turd Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: houston, tx Posts: 674	Re: Boxing Frame hopefully there won't be problems as mine is a 3/4 ton longbed. i'll give them a call



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