***More Junk to add to my collection!!!***

[jhama78]

Heres my new (future) Tow rig: 1985 gmc C3500 dually camper special, 104k, on 350, sm465. Needs a new engine (smoking and burning oil BAD) and the price was right... just get it out of his way Been sitting my my father in laws barn for 4 years, he parked it there with intentions of putting in another engine he had but never got around to it... it comes with another 350 out of a 79 chevy p/u that I have to pull. Other than that a little pressure washing and some purple power and I should be good to go. Prolly gonna replace brakes, and most all rubber on the truck as well just to be safe once I start towing junk around with it. I understand that pigeon poop is a great preservative... Whatchall think?!?

-j-rOd

[Palf70Step]

It's a wee bit dirty.

Looks like a nice start, I like those year duallys.

[SmittySmith]

Should make for some great before/after pics!!

[68GMC454]

man i got to get new inlaws,,..if i ever find a crew cab dually priced rigth,,that needs amotor,,my 84 is in trouble..im afraid i will transplant my 454 into it..

[84 400]

many nice to see the nice dooleys turning up. get some cleaned up pics goin on looks like a nice truck!! wanna trade............... looks like you got a nice project on your hands

[jhama78]

Heres a few pics from two weeks ago when I drug the truck out of the barn and pressure washed it in preparation of bringing it home to start working on it...
Once I got it home I rewashed the entire truck with purple power inside and out and started putting the accessories back on the engine... alternator, belts hoses radiator battery etc... surprisingly i put some fuel in the tank, shot a little ether in the carb a couple of times and it sputtered to life...
so at least now I can move it around the yard and stuff... I still have to put the P/S belt on it and see how much if any its gonna leak... Anyhoo I shot the wheels with a can of Krylon Semi flat black just to make them match.... Its amazing what a cn of paint can do to a beater.... I also included a pic of the engine and interior... nothing special but everybody love pics so there they are...

l8r

-j-rOd

[jhama78]

interior i need a seat badly... this ones thrashed

[Roper]

Man that truck doesnt look bad at all. Way better than mine was when I got it.
Thats two wheel drive? right? If it was mine I would be thinking about putting a Cummins in it.
Gosh it seems like everybody but me finds all these great deals. Im jelous!

[jhama78]

yeah its no show winner but itll be a solid truck to haul and trailer my junk around... Id love to put a cummins in it but its just sooo much cheaper to keep the mouse in it.... a bud of mine does have a 12v dodge dually with a cummins in it but I aint gonna give him 1800-2200 for a truck that im gonna take apart... right now here are my expenses on this project....

$63.00 - Diesel Fuel for my buds f350 to tow it home
$40.00 - Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel Toll 20 bux each way from picking the truck up
$50.00 - Misc Supplies P/S belt, airfilter, oil, Carb Cleaner,etc...

$153.00 - Grand total invested so far...

[68GMC454]

man what a deal..would love to have one..doesnt look to bad either...

[kevinr1970]

Chrome lug-nuts. It will really wake up those black rims.

Originally Posted by jhama78

Heres a few pics from two weeks ago when I drug the truck out of the barn and pressure washed it in preparation of bringing it home to start working on it...
Once I got it home I rewashed the entire truck with purple power inside and out and started putting the accessories back on the engine... alternator, belts hoses radiator battery etc... surprisingly i put some fuel in the tank, shot a little ether in the carb a couple of times and it sputtered to life...
so at least now I can move it around the yard and stuff... I still have to put the P/S belt on it and see how much if any its gonna leak... Anyhoo I shot the wheels with a can of Krylon Semi flat black just to make them match.... Its amazing what a cn of paint can do to a beater.... I also included a pic of the engine and interior... nothing special but everybody love pics so there they are...

l8r

-j-rOd

[old Rusty C10]

jee there was a truck under all that bird poop?? its a nice looking rig i wish i could get one like that for a price like that!!

[knightlife]

looks better than my truck when I towed it home! lol....sweet find man

[grinch4om]

you truely suck... ha ha! great score!

[jhama78]

Ive been doin a little wrenching and drinkin some barley pops in the evenings this week and have gotten the truck a little closer to driveable... I hooked the hydraboost lines back up, installed new alt and P/S Belts, hoseclamps, rad cap, and replaced all of the vacuum lines...

It doesnt run bad but the reason my father in law quit driving it was because it was smoking pretty bad... the thing that puzzles me is that when you first start it up it smokes out of the drivers side bank of cylinders only, it has dual exhaust with no xover pipe so I know that its coming from that side.

Once its run for about 10 minutes or so it doesnt really smoke at all out of either side... Im kinda confised about this because I would have figured that if it was rings, valves, or valve seals that it would smoke out of both sides... i mean what would make one side of the engine wear out faster than the other?

One last thought I had about it was that the drivers side is the manifold where the exhaust heat valve deal is that blocks the downpipe when the engine is cold and I was wondering if that could be the reason that the drivers side smokes?

OK enough of my babble... heres a couple pics... one of the pile of vac hoses I pulled off and another of my first performance mod.... I mean if stickers work for the ricers then why wont they work for full size pickups... haha A CROWER sticker must be at least worth 10-15 Horsepower...

Thanks for any and all input

l8r

-j-rOd

[randyjohn]

i would say your first step is to pull the spark plugs on the side you think it's smoking and check to see if they are all fouled or just one. probably the easiest place to start narrowing it down.

[velsuk]

Check the pressures at the same time. Differences tell a lot.

[jhama78]

Good suggestions, I had planned on doing plugs, wires, cap, button, pcv, fuel filter, etc. anyway becuase I found a couple of rough looking plug wires and Im sure it could use the rest of that stuff... I also need to get a compression checking tool....

One more question for those of you that have quadrajet carbs... I know that the fuel inlet is a potential problem so far as the threads stripping when removing the fitting to chance the filter... would it be smarter to just leave the filter out of the carb and install an inline filer in the hardline? My old man had a quadrajet on a 75 chev back in the day that stripped out the threads where the filter is and he got some kinda thread repair fitting deal or whatever to fix it... Anyhoo Im rambling again, thanks for the input and advice peeps.

-j-rOd

one more thing, Its amazing how much I am enjoying working on this pile of sh1t... in the last few years I have built and raced a 383 sbc powered toyota mudbogger and helped built and worked on a bunch of other race trucks, trail rigs and cars but most all of them werent really stock and had lots of $$ aftermarket parts on them, its a good change to go to a parts store and actually be able to get an oem replacement part for the correct application for a decent price versus trying to get a parts counter monkey to cross reference a part number or ordering a bunch of stuff out of summit, although Im sure that Ill eventually put an intake, carb and headers on this truck when I build an engine for it... more rambling... l8r doods

[Ivan D.]

on the Q-jet inlet question - AutoZone has those self-tapping fittings, they are supposed to do the trick, I use one in my Holley cause the silly thing didn't have a fuel inlet fitting on the front bowl, someone has removed it at some point before I acquired it. My treads weren't stripped, yet I tightened the fitting as deep as it would get, used some thread-sealant on it and it worked great. I do run an external fuel filter tho.

[jhama78]

I got a litle bit more done to the truck in the last week or two, I pulled the seat out and cleaned out all of the rat turds, mud, dust, nuts, bolts washers, aardvarks, beavers, and gnus I already had the rubber mat and insulation out of the truck from when I first brought it home... then I washed everything out with purple power and let it dry for a couple days. Next I hit everything with the wire brush and fogged the floorboards with some semi flat black just to cover up the bare metal... again It is amazing the results that spray paint can produce.... I picked up a better seat from a bud of mine yesterday, but am going to wait to bolt it in until I get a seatcover for it.

Also I discovered that the passenger side gastank is leaking... after I put 6 gallons of gas in it... I switched the gas tank switch over to the left side tank but I never heard the solenoid valve switch over so I am hesitant to think that itll work... also the gauge went waaaay past full when it was onthe drivers side tank so Im pretty sure that there is a wiring issue somewhere... It never ends... anyhoo onto a couple of pics to update the thread...

[redrat]

looking good. Its amazing how some cleaning up and a spray can can bring something back to life. Keep those pictures coming.

[knightlife]

*sniff sniff* smells like progress!

[Crank]

Well my old '86 GMC had the dual tanks, it was a swb, but whenever I filled up the tanks, it would show like the truck had a 5/4 tank. it always always went way past the full mark when i filled it up... so if i was were you, i wouldnt think that much into it. So maybe switch out that tank for a good one that doesnt leak and get a new selector switch. also check the switch on the dash to make sure it works and the wires are connected and make sure you depress it hard and all the way, sometimes they take a min to switch...
Brandon

[jhama78]

Yeah the gauge doesnt bother me too terribly much as long as itll switch tanks and stay there... Ill put a couple of gallons in it and see if itll switch over and run off of that tank... One more question though, will the tank stay switched over to the drivers side when the key is turned off? Is the switching valve spring loaded or does it stay where it was moved last?

thanks for all the help doods.

-j-rOd

[Crank]

Yes, it'll definately stay where the switch was last put to... And if your dash happens to be rattling going back into a field, and your girl kicks the dash to get it to stop rattling(which never fixed it) and all the sudden the truck stops running and you cant crank it over... Go ahead and check the position of the switch first before you look all over the truck in amazment that it was just running and now it isnt, and there is no apparent reason why, until you realize that she kicked the damn selector switch and put it on the empty tank. and it was dark, then she wanted to say my truck was a piece of crap but then it was all her fault all along and girls are dumb and I'm sorry for this.... STUPID GIRLS!!!
Brandon