1970 C10 LWB "Blu"

[NC_John]

Update time.....

Engine is pretty much together from oil pan to valve covers. Everything is painted and the intake is powder coated to match.







The transmission has been gone through (great shape throughout now with new seals and gaskets). I'm going to put the Saginaw back in for this year and transplant a nascar 5-spd unit next year.

I took the (original) rad to get cleaned and checked out and its toast. I'm waiting for the price to have it recored.

My bodyman came over last week and is working on a price to do my rockers, cab corners, patch the front fenders..... Hopefully I'll be flatbedding it over that way soon to let him have his way with it.

Progress is slow but going well.

[NC_John]

Things are going to happen quick now....

I am on the schedule at my buddy's body/resto shop. He has a $2 million (yes, MILLION) dollar Shelby Cobra in there right now waiting to get picked up and hauled back up to NJ.





This car has got a really early SN and some serious documented racing pedigree giving it the crazy value....

When this one gets picked up, a $65K Austin Healy is coming in......

Then Blu!

They're doing the outer rockers, cab corners, bottom of the kick panels, one cab support and my front fenders. David was a little perplexed why I wanted him to leave all the blue paint alone and only blow in white below the lower molding where he'll be doing all the work. He was ready to do a frame-off for me. Maybe later.... I want to run the patina'd paint for a while.

The Austin Healy should be done by Mid-Feb so I have to rush like crazy to get mine ready to go as soon as he's ready.

This weekend I am painting the frame with a coating David recommended (he uses it on all the cobras and GT-40's that roll through his place).

http://www.tat-co.com/products/speci...ip-guard-4313/

Then the engine is going in sometime next week. It's pretty much ready to go. The transmission is done and I just picked up my clutch kit yesterday. My CPP motor mounts just came in. I'm going to bolt it up but not plumb or wire it (won't have time with all the other prep). (I don't know why the pic is upside down....)



I'm going to have to bring him my new rad support on Monday- he'll be in the booth spraying black and has a satin that he says looks great underhood.

I need the rad support painted so I can get the front clip back on (he wants it on when I bring it to the shop). The engine is going in prior to the body shop for one very good reason.... David is going to do the alignment on all my panels so I'd rather put the engine in now while its easy and let him do his magic on my sheetmetal. He is going to save me hours and hours (if not days) and he'll do a way better job than I could ever dream of.

I'm bringing him the truck without the bed and with the bench seat and gas tank removed. (I'll do some work to the bed later). I'm wondering now if I should c-notch it before I put the bed back on.... Hmmmm.....

I scored a set of mid-60's poverty caps that are on their way from the seller in Canada. Those with a set of freshly painted but low-key steelies should look fantastic.



My rad is being recored by a local old-school shop. They are using my original tanks and putting in a new 3-row brass/copper core that'll be better than anything aftermarket I can get. It'll be a perfect fit and I'll still have the original tanks and factory tags on it.

When the truck gets back from the shop (end of feb, beginning of march), I can finish the engine and engine bay and knock out all the rest of the stuff on the punch list to have it ready to go.

[darkhorse970]

Nice build! Those '67 hubcaps will look great on the steelies!

[NC_John]

I got the front clip finished last weekend- cleaned, wirewheeled and painted with John Deere paint (the semi-gloss black has a perfect finish). I am stoked at how clean the frame is after a little bit of cleaning. It kills me not to be able to completely tear it down, media blast it and finish it properly but I'll do that in a few years. I bolted my new CPP motor mounts on.



Yesterday I gutted the cab (seat, carpet and gas tank) to get it ready for the body shop. I got my cab mount bolts loosened up and did the gas pedal conversion for the cable throttle. I did some detail and cleanup work on the firewall and then really got to work....

The engine finally, after several long months, got off the stand and assembled with the flywheel, new clutch set and freshly gone-over transmission.



And then- a buddy and I got it planted back in the truck. It went pretty good- we didn't bump scratch or damage anything. We had to really fight to get all the motor mounts lined up (especially the rear mounts), but we got it done without having to use a lot of "persuasion".



I am a pretty happy guy. I can start tinkering around now bolting on the accessories and other stuff. I'm getting my newly painted repop rad support back and then can bolt the front end back together around the new powerplant. I'll be about ready to fire it up when it comes back from the bodyshop.

[NC_John]

A ton of stuff has gotten done since the fall and a ton of money has been spent...

Truck got to the body shop and got new outer rockers, cab corners, the front fenders and rear cab supports were patched. No paintwork was done above the lower molding line.

[rusty76]

Any updates on this truck? I enjoyed reading it so far and just hoped there would be a few updates.

[NC_John]

Thanks for asking. I'm not much of an attention whore but nobody seemed to be interested so I didn't bother updating.

Yeah, its been back apart and out the road a little while. Definitely not finished and still a seemingly endless work in progress. This is at the Goodguys Southeast Nationals a couple weeks ago.



Under the hood...



The exhaust...



How it sounds (just back from the exhaust shop):

http://vid780.photobucket.com/albums...psjvn5tacz.mp4

The interior (so far, a good ways to go still):



And a bunch of shiny stuff underneath:





I just picked up a 4L60E to swap out the Saginaw three-on-the-tree (which doesn't get along with the new engine). Need to get a torque converter, electronic controller, crossmember, steering column etc. Going to go posi in the rear with 3.73 gears... Figuring out my plan for the front end.... More drop, front and rear, disc brakes, rack and peanut steering. The usual nonsense that is keeping me poor.

[mvesr]

Looking good. Keep us posted on progress.

Mika

[kyuss]

That is coming along really nicely. Great looking rig.

[flashed]

I must have missed where you installed the rear end set up ,what are your trailing arms connected to ?

[steelhorse]

Looks great. Keep us posted on any updates.

[jhrusk]

Very nice

[rusty76]

I'm always interested in builds and I usually chime in time to time. Thanks for updating on your truck. Some threads go stale and you wonder what happened, then once and awhile somebody will post an update or ask an question so yeah we still listening.!

[NC_John]

Mitchell72 asked for a pic with a better side profile so here it is...



The wheels are 15x6's up front with (I think) 215/75/15's and 15X8's on the rear with 235/75/15. I'm going to upgrade to 18's or 20's when the suspension/front end will need better rubber.

[cericd]

Just found this thread. There's a bunch of great info in here. A lot of which I need to apply to my truck. Any updates to the current state of the truck?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Just found this thread. There's a bunch of great info in here. A lot of which I need to apply to my truck. Any updates to the current state of the truck?

Hey Chris- actually, yes- its been a busy weekend. Old transmission and everything associated is out. Got a tiny bit of cleanup and will be ready to start putting bigger and better parts back in.

Its frustrating. Every time I get this truck "completed" and out on the road, I find something else to do and it gets all torn apart again. I am thinking I might get stupid and do a short bed conversion before I get the new driveshaft and exhaust done (again). If the bed is coming off, I'll c-notch the rear as well I guess.



All the steering and shifter/clutch components are out:





All set underneath to bolt up the newly built tremec:

[rusty76]

If you didn't have something to mess with what else would you do? Lol.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by rusty76

If you didn't have something to mess with what else would you do? Lol.

Ride my harley and still have money I guess.

[cericd]

Hey John, how did you get the engine compartment so clean without removing the factory grease pencil marks? I don't want to lose mine when I clean up in there. I saw that you used a high pressure sprayer and degreaser. That wouldn't remove them?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Hey John, how did you get the engine compartment so clean without removing the factory grease pencil marks? I don't want to lose mine when I clean up in there. I saw that you used a high pressure sprayer and degreaser. That wouldn't remove them?

I just kept the degreaser and the pressure washer away from the grease pencil marks. They are pretty durable.

[cericd]

Thanks. Can they be wiped over with a soapy sponge like you would was the exterior of the truck with?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Thanks. Can they be wiped over with a soapy sponge like you would was the exterior of the truck with?

I don't even do that. I just wiped around them by hand.

[ryans69chevy]

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

Good timing on your question- I just did a big write up explanation on another thread. Here it is:

Originally Posted by NC_John

OK, I bought a '93 T-56 locally on craigslist. I think I paid $1,200 or 1,300 including the bellhousing. I think it was a 93, it might have been later, but it was luckily a good one- avoid the earlier ones according to Tick, they are considerably weaker and won't take the same upgrades.

Had Tick Performance do their level 2 build. (I added more upgrades to the base build and they told me it'll take abuse from 700RWTQ easy all day long)

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild is the perfect choice for 93-02 Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am owners making 600RWTQ or less and needing a little more strength than our Level One offers you!

This complete price includes Parts, Labor AND Free Shipping on your T56 (both ways!)

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild includes the following:
•Complete tear down, degrease & thorough inspection of entire transmission
•Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
•OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
•Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
•New OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
•Complete Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Ring Set
•New Front Seal
•New Rear Seal
•Cryogenic Treatment of All Transmission Internals
•End-play set to our custom specifications
•Professional Reassembly done 100% by hand
•One Year, Unlimited Mileage Warranty (details below)

The rebuild, upgrades (viper second gear) plus some other parts (from normal wear) I needed cost somewhere around $3K. I spent way more than I planned but wanted it done right so I didn't have to plan on doing it again in a couple years.

I got a front shift conversion kit from SST. PN T56FSA for $414.95 shipped. (Tick installed it for me during the rebuild). This puts the shifter up where you see it in my pics. In front of the bench seat instead of in the middle of it.

I got a 6.5" short shifter off of ebay "Black 6.5" short shifter stick 1993-2002 Camaro Z28" to use as the base for my new shifter. $25.53 (I welded my four speed shifter stick to this base to fit the T-56)

I got a Camaro clutch slave cylinder from O'Reillys. This one has an aluminum housing while most others are plastic. If you get one, make sure it is aluminum. They kept sending plastic ones under the same PN until we found the right one. PN CS2227 $34.20

I had to get an "84-97 Chevy T-5, T56 Hydraulic Clutch Line Fitting, AN-4, 5&6 speed swap" ebay item 130992050230 for $4.99 to convert the goofy GM pinned hydraulic line fitting to an AN-04 at the slave cylinder.

I also bought an AN-04 braided line that goes between the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, not seeing the receipt here in my pile so will have to find it.

I called Tick and asked what clutch master cylinder to use (everything has to match or the hydraulics won't work- it'll be too stiff, too soft, not enough travel etc). They recommended (and I bought) a wildwood from summit PN WIL-260-3374 for $69.93. My clutch pedal is stiff without being too hard with good even actuation.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-3374

You'll have to convert your clutch pedal from the factory hard linkage to work the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch. I mounted my wildwood in line (well, slightly offset) with the clutch pedal in the cab, drilled a hole in the pedal arm and had to use threaded rod, heim joints, etc. to make a pushrod. There will be a bit of playing around to get the throw right. With my clutch the master cylinder will over travel the clutch pressure plate and the fingers will make contact and make noise (google it, its common with the swap). You can either get used to it and you'll know where to stop the travel like many do or do what I did and installed a spacer to shorten the clutch pedal throw on the pushrod. That way if it is at an exhaust shop or garage for something, or my wife or buddy drives it, they can just work the clutch normally instead of having to be coached on how to do it so they don't damage anything.

I used a CPP crossmember PN CLP-CP9424 bought from summit for $78.97

I used a performance suspension transmission mount (have to find the PN).

I got a single disc conversion flywheel and clutch set from Ram Clutches.

http://www.ramclutches.com/tremec.html

My conversion kit came with an aluminum flywheel, which I was skeptical about since my engine is built more for top end, but it seems to rev really quick with the EFI setup which is awesome. Call the vendor you choose directly and get your PN's. I went by this chart, which seems pretty straight forward and found it didn't work with my external slave clutch setup. Can't find the receipt but I believe the cost was $1,600-1,700 for the conversion set. Not cheap.

I used an original four speed truck shifter and trim plate (bought here on the board). I had a hard time finding a boot that would work and the repop stuff is junk (I tried several but didn't like any of them). I ended up getting a boot from a kenworth application that I was able to cut to fit very nicely. And of course I had to buy a high hump here off the board and then a new carpet kit.

I think getting my driveshaft shortened and rebalanced was somewhere between $100 and $200 here locally. I had to change my 3OTT steering column to a floor shift column which you of course won't have to do. When I did the column I completely rebuild it with all new bearings and wear parts. Since I had a 3.07 rear end, the six speed geared my truck for Talledega/Bonneville so I installed the 4.56 eaton posi setup (around $1,000, parts and labor).

I still need to get dust/flywheel cover for the bellhousing, the switch so I can wire up my reverse lights and figure out what to do about my speedometer. I use a phone app or GPS but want to get my odometer working since I am OCD about maintenance.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

Here are some pics from during the install.

Originally Posted by NC_John

I am running the CPP tubular motor mounts in the regular 2WD V8 location. Some guys have been able to squeeze it in under the low hump but I could not get the bellhousing up on the block. Maybe because of the CPP mounts?

This was the first try



After trying with no success to get it lined up, I gave up and cut out the tunnel.



I got it to fit but still had to trim beyond the tunnel at the back to get it to fit properly.



Bolted a high hump and did a little sheetmetal work to finish off the additionally cut area.



The benefit of all the additional work in the fitment was that the transmission is mounted very nice and high, completely above the frame rails.


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