Solid axle swap questions....

[Zoerb]

I am thinking about doing a SAS swap on my 90 k1500. the trucks front diff is toast, and the rear axle is junk. I have a line on a 83 k10, and I would be using the stock 10 bolt front and rear, and t case. my questions come up when trying to figure out the steering linkage. Some have suggested its a "plug and play" setup, while others say that I have to go with crossover steering. I dont have the cash to go shell out for the correct knuckle, but I did see an alternative that looks like it would work....



What do you guys think?
Does this look right?
Does it look safe?
(this pic is off a Jeep, and not mine, I just wanted to use it as a reference)

[b454rat]

If your not going crazy with the lift, that setup would work.

If you google low lift solid axle pirate4x4, there is a thread that shows steering setup on a low lift SAS, should give you some ideas.

[propanemudtruck]

I don't like the look of a single shear bolt with a steering responsibility. If you could weld on the knuckle to have a double shear it wouldn't be so bad. Ball joints are much more robust and hardened than even a grade 8 bolt.

[lukefalls]

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

I don't like the look of a single shear bolt with a steering responsibility. If you could weld on the knuckle to have a double shear it wouldn't be so bad. Ball joints are much more robust and hardened than even a grade 8 bolt.

What he said! Don't use the set-up in the first picture!!! That is cheap lazy way to make steering that is dangerous and does not work correctly.

You can get a flat top Chevy Dana 44 knuckle in junk yards for cheap. Have a flat top arm put on it and you're done. It'll interchange between any of the 69-87(91) solid axle trucks. For a few hundred dollars and you'd be set.

Just to give you reference, I just sold a Reid Racing knuckle with all new ball joints, ARP studs and cones, a WFO Concepts arm, and two tie rod ends for $400. They were brand new, I couldn't use them since I only have Dana 60s now. If you shop around, you can find some smokin' deal on the RIGHT parts.

[Zoerb]

That is what I kinda figured. I thought that the connection looked cheap and cheesy, but wanted some input as to why. I will have to do some looking around for the right parts.

How do I tell which one is which, in regards to the knuckle? I would assume the flat top knuckle would be just that, but what do they look like? I guess I am just looking for a pic of the correct part....


Thanks guys for all your help so far!
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[b454rat]

Hmm didn't even pay attention to the single shear, thought you meant the tierod placement.

Another method is to use the stabilizer hole to mount the draglink......

[Zoerb]

Originally Posted by b454rat

Hmm didn't even pay attention to the single shear, thought you meant the tierod placement.

Another method is to use the stabilizer hole to mount the draglink......

I had thought of using the stabilizer hole to mount the draglink before, but thought that someone on one of the many 4x4 websites would have mentioned this.

thanks everyone for the help. at the very least, I can get it to the roller stage, to move around the yard.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

So your going to use the t-case from the donor truck then? Like stated above I don't like that lazy setup either. Yes it would work is it safe no would I say use it no!