83 suburban 1/2ton to 1ton conversion help

[tx72k15]

Anyone know of a good write up on how to swap an 83 1/2ton burban to 1 ton? What year axles will swap right in, what extra parts if any are needed? Really anything would help.

Thanks in advance,

Doyle

[kwmech]

Find a matching single wheel dana 60 and a 14 bolt and bolt them in. Have the driveshafts done. I recommend 4.56 gearing with the 700 trans. You're also gonna need a 1 ton master cylinder. Probably a 95% bolt in deal

[tx72k15]

So pretty much any dana 60 and 14 bolt from the 73-87 era ought to bolt right in?

[Your41Plague12]

Make sure you get the Full Floating 14 bolt, not the semi floating. I'd swap in Hydroboost while you're doing this. These axles will not bolt in. You will need to cut the spring perches off the axle and weld new ones on. Your frame is wider than the frame on a 1 ton. This also gives you the opportunity to adjust pinion angle some if you're going to lift it. It's not totally bolt-in, but not as hard as some other things to do to one of these old squares.

[b454rat]

Frames are the same width, it's the spring hangers that have different width. The front will bolt in, the rear will need to have the perches moved in like already said.

[Tex_50613]

I had to go measure after reading this thread so far, I have a 91 1/2ton suburban a 85 1 ton dually and a 85 3/4 pickup which both run 1 ton 14bolt full floating axles the FF off of the 3/4ton and the 12bolt on the burb have 42 1/2" spring centers while the dually has 40" centers, so if you could obtain a non dually dana 60 front from a 1ton and a 14bolt FF from a 3/4ton with the same ratio (if your changing the ratios any way this is no problem at all) it would be a direct bolt operation on the axles, now utilizing the 3/4 ton rear you should be able to utilize your stock rear drive shaft but will either need a bastard joint in your front drive shaft at the axle end or a drive shaft and front output yoke from a comparably equipped 1ton to have everything be a bolt and go

[b454rat]

The front drive shaft is the same, the rear will need a bastard joint and possibly shortened.

[tx72k15]

Originally Posted by Tex_50613

I had to go measure after reading this thread so far, I have a 91 1/2ton suburban a 85 1 ton dually and a 85 3/4 pickup which both run 1 ton 14bolt full floating axles the FF off of the 3/4ton and the 12bolt on the burb have 42 1/2" spring centers while the dually has 40" centers, so if you could obtain a non dually dana 60 front from a 1ton and a 14bolt FF from a 3/4ton with the same ratio (if your changing the ratios any way this is no problem at all) it would be a direct bolt operation on the axles, now utilizing the 3/4 ton rear you should be able to utilize your stock rear drive shaft but will either need a bastard joint in your front drive shaft at the axle end or a drive shaft and front output yoke from a comparably equipped 1ton to have everything be a bolt and go

First off, thanks to everyone that answered but definitely thank you Tex for actually measuring for me. I'm trying to soak up the know-how on these trucks as fast as possible and this just makes it way easier. Sooner or later I'm gonna be rolling around in exactly what I want. Until I break it.

So if I understand all this right:
-A non dually d60 should bolt right in, no issues but the front drive shaft will or will not work?
-A 3/4 ton 14bolt should also bolt right in. I've read/been told my rear drive shaft will need shortening. This is fine, I planned on it anyway. But everything I've learned so far leads to a 3/4 14 bolt not bolting right in. I'm not arguing with anyone, I just wanna spend the money on the right parts.
-A 1 ton master cylinder would definitely be a good idea.

THANKS again,

Doyle

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by tx72k15

So if I understand all this right:
-A non dually d60 should bolt right in, no issues but the front drive shaft will or will not work?
-A 3/4 ton 14bolt should also bolt right in. I've read/been told my rear drive shaft will need shortening. This is fine, I planned on it anyway. But everything I've learned so far leads to a 3/4 14 bolt not bolting right in. I'm not arguing with anyone, I just wanna spend the money on the right parts.

Both a dually 60 and single wheel 60 will bolt in, the differance between them is the outer hubs.

A 3/4 ton 14 bolt is a direct swap. The spring pads and shock tabs are narrower on the 1 ton axles.

[b454rat]

I swapped a lot of axles over the years. The very first Dana 60 I had went into an 84 3/4 that I picked up in MD. Had a 10 bolt front. I unbolted the 10 bolt, dragged it out of the way, bolted up the 60. Done. An 80s 10 bolt has the same brake line as a 60, at least the banjo fitting.

Also parted out many a 1 ton, and when I swapped another 84 I had from 1/2 to 3/4 ton, I had a front shaft from a 1 ton just in case. (swapped from auto to stick, used the stick parts off the 1 ton) Same everything.

Swapped 10 bolt and 14sf, both times a 14ff from a 3/4 ton bolted right up. Depending on year the E-brake cables will even hook up. I can't remember on the first 84, that was over 10 years ago, but I know the most recent 84 I had to have the rear shaft shortened.

Dually or single front axle will still bolt in, only difference is the wheel hubs. And I never swapped a master cylinder out either. Brakes and steering are the two areas where you NEVER skimp out on. I could lock all four up if I didn't mind kissing the windshield. If there was any issues I would have addressed it.

Half and 3/4 are basically the same thing, just different rears and heavier springs. Both have the 42 1/2" perch width. 1 ton has dimensions on the frame, but is thicker and taller. The spring hangers is where the difference comes in, so the perches on the axle are closer to the springs to clear duals, they are 40 1/2".

Hope this clears some stuff up for yah....

[tx72k15]

And a 3/4 ton 14bolt thats geared right should be tough enough to spin something like 38's through the slop right?

Ok, now for a more in depth question:

A 350, "k" stamped 700r4, and these axles geared right will be streetable at least around town right? The truck is not going to be a DD at all but it'd be nice to be able to run an hour and a half south to the coast for a day or weekend fishing trip and not have to worry about anything but the cost of gas.

[b454rat]

350 700 38s with 4.10s won't be bad, probly just leave it in 3rd and not use OD. Use OD on the highway, RPMs will be low almost too low to be in the torque curve of the engine.

I ran 40" boggers with 3.73s in my old truck, but had a 454. My crew (if it ever gets done) has 4.10s with a 454. Many hills around where I am, and won't be doing much long distance road trips with it.

[Tex_50613]

the guts in the 3/4 ton and 1 ton 14 bolt axles are the same, it's just the mount locations that differ.

i run 4:10's in my trucks and run all over around here, had 38.5's and now 44's on my k20 and it roads out beautifully now I was running a 3 speed with low and a 468ci big block, but ran a 350 and 700r4 in my burb on 37's without any problems either and beleave it or not I got 12mpg + in the burb

[Mr. 250r]

I swapped my 91 3/4 burban axles to 86 1 tons but didn't use the rear axle because I didn't want drum brakes, but in terms of the front it was honestly a bolt in setup brake lines are the same but with a d44 I think they change but that's not a huge ordeal as for the master cylinder I left my 3/4t in and it brakes fine a 1/2t might be different not sure and driveshaft for the front is also fine just hope ya don't get a death wobble like mine lol, my gears are 4.10s with 38.5s and a 4l80e which I also ran it when the 10 bolt was under it and it ran perfect I also use OD, and never had bogging problems with my stock 350tbi it spins the tires through the mud all day
Posted via Mobile Device

[tx72k15]

All of you guys say you have great luck with such seemingly high gear ratios. It goes against everything I've ever read or been told. I thought I was gonna need 1 ton axles and 4.88s or 5.13s to run 38s and not destroy my tranny.

Crazy.

Thanks,

Doyle

[Mr. 250r]

If I were you I'd figure out what exactly your gonna do like maybe mud only or just rocks etc, iffy you have a budget or not so we can help you, I run 38s with a bone stock truck and it spins the tires great and I get compliments from highly modded trucks all the time
Posted via Mobile Device