longbed driveshaft

[50bomb]

Read alot on other threads but wanted to know from the guys who are actually running this setup or close to it what they think. I have a 1965 c20 with original 283/3 spreed on tree. I am having a hard time with finding correct center Ujoints for my 2 piece drive shaft. I found a one piece for sale from a guy locally who sells 60-66 chevy truck parts. Says he has one exactly what I mesured. Its about 75" from front to rear and 80" with transmission yoke. Anyone happy with this setup? I know people say this and that but I want to know who actually has experience in knowing this personally if its good to go.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by 50bomb

Read alot on other threads but wanted to know from the guys who are actually running this setup or close to it what they think. I have a 1965 c20 with original 283/3 spreed on tree. I am having a hard time with finding correct center Ujoints for my 2 piece drive shaft. I found a one piece for sale from a guy locally who sells 60-66 chevy truck parts. Says he has one exactly what I mesured. Its about 75" from front to rear and 80" with transmission yoke. Anyone happy with this setup? I know people say this and that but I want to know who actually has experience in knowing this personally if its good to go.

Are you asking about a one piece driveshaft in a long bed in general, or those specific measurements?
My truck has a one piece shaft and no evidence it ever had a carrier bearing. I read on here that some came that way, likely due to gearing.

I have no complaints, no vibrations, no issues with this set up.

[66 C10 383]

Shortbeds used a one piece driveshaft, longbeds used a 2 pc with a carrier bearing to keep the long shaft from flexing.

My 66 C10 originally had a light duty 2 pc driveshaft now gone thanks to previous owner tossing it. It used the smaller carrier mounted on top, where yours probably used the heavy duty bearing that mounts on the bottom.

I've heard that to get a single pc driveshaft to work without flexing in the middle, the outside diameter of the shaft would be too big to fit through the hole for the trailing arm crossmember.

I'd look for a custom or truck driveshaft shop to see what they could come up with.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by 66 C10 383

've heard that to get a single pc driveshaft to work without flexing in the middle, the outside diameter of the shaft would be too big to fit through the hole for the trailing arm crossmember.

Disagree.

Here is the thread I referenced. I own one of these unicorns.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=Driveshaft

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Mack B

Are you asking about a one piece driveshaft in a long bed in general, or those specific measurements?
My truck has a one piece shaft and no evidence it ever had a carrier bearing. I read on here that some came that way, likely due to gearing.

I have no complaints, no vibrations, no issues with this set up.

My 60 Long bed has a 1 piece driveshaft never had a problem with it.

[66 C10 383]

I stand corrected ... LoL There's so much to these trucks ...

Maybe there is hope for a single shaft for my longbed.

I've bout decided to go the LS route on mine and thought about the HUGE single shafts in some of the newer Chevy trucks ...

[DLW]

Originally Posted by 66 C10 383

I stand corrected ... LoL There's so much to these trucks ...

Maybe there is hope for a single shaft for my longbed.

I've bout decided to go the LS route on mine and thought about the HUGE single shafts in some of the newer Chevy trucks ...

Your not really wrong either .

For a stock motor a super long 3" DS is probably fine, low speed, low RPM.

For an LS engine or other engines capable of spinning high RPM, you could certainly cause it to wobble and destroy the DS and anything else that gets in the way. Check any of the professional DS shops that make high performance shafts, they won't make one after a certain length without going to a larger diameter tubing. My 2017 Sierra 1/2 ton has like a 6" diameter aluminum DS in it for example. Even my 66' short bed had to be stepped up to a 3.5" DS with the LS3 in it because it was still over the recommended length to use a 3" DS with rated HP and RPM the engine see's. Anyway, this was for informational purpose, not telling anyone what to use..There is plenty of data out there to google about it.

[50bomb]

Yea I was going to buy a one piece that meaused same exact for what I needed to replace the 2 piece. Only thing was it ended up that the 1 pieace had smaller univerasal joints in rear so my ubolts would not fit. I passed on it. Decided I already had the universal joints for my center and center carrier bearing. So i went to a friends house and he helped me fix it.

[50bomb]

Here are pictures. Sorry I know i made this topic for a 1 piece but here is my 2 piece back together. I ended up just going to a friends house and he helped me replace the center universal joints and carrier bearing. I apparently have a c10 setup? See my new carrier bearing? Also driveshaft is skinny but that is how I bought the truck. I wish atleast I would of went with the heavier carrier bearing. I just went with standard. SO lets see how long it last. Good news I finally test drove my truck yesterday for the first time since I owned it for 7 months. Felt good.
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[PGSigns]

I have a 65 GMC long bed here that has the one piece shaft in it. So they were made. To go tot he HD bearing you will need the drive shaft for it. It is bigger and made differently than the one you have.
Jimmy

[doug_p]

I have a 62 longbed, lq4/4l80e swap. Removed two piece driveshaft, replaced with a 1989 Chevy 2500 single shaft that needed to be trimmed down about 3 inches if I remember correctly. Works great!