65 shorty build

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The factory location for the V8 motor mounts is in the rear holes. Some guys insist on moving them forward for better distributor to firewall cleaeance with the HEI. I've run small blocks with the HEI in the rear position and had enough clearance.

^^ Toe-may-toe; tow-mah-tow.... Some guys insist on the front mounting position; others are different. Try both....

[lytemup454]

Hey man great build i've only just stumbled upon it but I'm liking what your doing. It's nice to see some more trucks over here on the eastern side of things. I'm down here In Pendleton. Got any plans for those springs?
ian

[chev-obsession]

lytemup454, thanks! and yes its nice to see guys on here some what locally! i plan to get rid of the front springs, they are 60-87, 2'' lowering djm springs.

this idea that i have in the back of my mind keeps me up... so here it goes: i want to paint the firewall, do i take the cab off, sand blast the firewall and bottom of floor pan, then spray it with por15.... clean and paint the frame take the 3 speed crossmember out and bolt in the 700r4 member or..... get the paint off of the firewall some how and spray it and leave the cab on.

i just dont want the nice condition windsheild to get shot with sand as well as sand in the new baer brakes....

im willing to do both and you guys have done this statue of a project more than i have so what would you guys do?

[Captainfab]

It sounds like you're at that point where things can really snowball on you. It's the question of 'Where do I stop'. You can take the cab off and do a better job of stripping the firewall and floor, but then you may as well blast the frame under the cab......then maybe pull the bed and do under there too. So you see You just have to ask yourself, how nice you want the truck, how much time do you realisticly have to do this build, and how big is your budget.

You can sand blast the firewall and floor without damaging the windshield as long as you mask it off and protect it well. I'm a big fan of blasting things down to bare metal so you can see just what is rusted, or full of mud and what isn't. That way when it is done, you know exactly what's underneath the paint, and that is isn't going to come back and bite you in the a$$.

[chev-obsession]

aww good point captain fab... that gives me something to think about!

[chev-obsession]

ok so i got the brakes on the front last night and i did not get any brake lines from the guy i bought it from so i'll have to call him. also it doesnt look like its lowered 2'' but i think it will look its part when there is more weight on the front

[chev-obsession]

well during my 2 day stay in reno at hot august nights we bought a 700r4 trans and a b&m ratchet shifter. which should be here by the end of the week!

[chev-obsession]

i finally got a chance to sandblast the rear frame and firewall.







i found this number it looks like a "66" what would this mean?



has anyone heard of por15's pelucid topcoat? is it a good idea to spray it over the black on the firewall?

hopefully tommorow i can take the rear end out along with the trailing arms blast and paint those too.

[Captainfab]

Be very careful using that silica sand. Breathing the dust from it can cause serious lung damage and even death. Even what's on the ground afterwards can get stirred up.

I haven't heard anything about POR's Pelucid topcoat, but then again I've only used POR15 2 times.

[chev-obsession]

yeah silacosus (or how ever you spell it) that would be a bad way to go. yeah i wear a resperator.

[chev-obsession]

the internet has been down for about a week or better and i have made significant progress as well as bought a powder coating gun and oven on craigslist for $100!!! i finaly got the 700r4 trans and the pro ratchet shifter to. the painted items were sprayed/brushed on with por15.

well heres some pics of the progress and powder coating....







is this panhard bar suppused to be bent?

[Captainfab]

No. it's not supposed to be bent. Someone may have done that to center the rear end if it wasn't originally. You can buy adjustable panhard bars if you so desire.

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

is this panhard bar suppused to be bent?

[chev-obsession]

why would make them do that??

ill just build a new one

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

why would make them do that??

ill just build a new one

Raising or lowering changes the required length of the Panhard bar when centering the rear housing.

[DRTYRAT30]

Nice progress, Hows that powder coat set-up working for you?

[chev-obsession]

Originally Posted by DRTYRAT30

Nice progress, Hows that powder coat set-up working for you?

Thanks! it works really good! it would be nice if i could get the powder to stick onto the sharp corners better. i have done a wheel and a bunch of suspension parts for my truck and a freinds datsun 240z.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Raising or lowering changes the required length of the Panhard bar when centering the rear housing.

so your saying buy the adjustable one?

[Captainfab]

I would either buy or make an adjustable panhard bar.

[chev-obsession]

ill have to get the "how to" from some one.

also whats the best way to remove undercoating??

[Captainfab]

To build an adjustable panhard bar, you'll need a piece of DOM tube for the length, a piece of DOM that will work with the bushings on the fixed end, a bushed rod end on the adjustable end, and a threaded bushing that matches the threaded rod end to weld in the end of the long tube. If that isn't understandable, take a look at the ones from CPP.



Sometimes you can remove undercoating with a little heat from say a propane torch and a putty knife. Or just a putty knife or a gasket scraper may work also. Aircraft paint stripper works sometimes too.

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

ill have to get the "how to" from some one.

also whats the best way to remove undercoating??

[chev-obsession]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

To build an adjustable panhard bar, you'll need a piece of DOM tube for the length, a piece of DOM that will work with the bushings on the fixed end, a bushed rod end on the adjustable end, and a threaded bushing that matches the threaded rod end to weld in the end of the long tube. If that isn't understandable, take a look at the ones from CPP.



Sometimes you can remove undercoating with a little heat from say a propane torch and a putty knife. Or just a putty knife or a gasket scraper may work also. Aircraft paint stripper works sometimes too.

ok well i get how to make the bushing ends but ill have to look in cpp for details.

i have tried air craft stripper and it was not very practical. i was researching it and people claim to use a needle gun or a halogen work lamp on the back side of the peice.

[chev-obsession]

does energy suspension off rear trailing arm bushing for this truck? all im coming up with is rear control arms bushings. or are they the same thing?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

[Captainfab]

I would say those should be what you're looking for. You might contact Summit and ask before ordering.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

To build an adjustable panhard bar, you'll need a piece of DOM tube for the length, a piece of DOM that will work with the bushings on the fixed end, a bushed rod end on the adjustable end, and a threaded bushing that matches the threaded rod end to weld in the end of the long tube. If that isn't understandable, take a look at the ones from CPP.



Sometimes you can remove undercoating with a little heat from say a propane torch and a putty knife. Or just a putty knife or a gasket scraper may work also. Aircraft paint stripper works sometimes too.

Aftermarket long, adjustable bars aren't crazy expensive. Porterbuilt & CPP each have nice pieces. If you're creative, you can also take the original Panhard bar, cut it in two, thread each end (LH thread; RH thread), & use a tie rod sleeve & adjust it like a tie rod. The best thing is to use the longest Panhard bar possible for the application as this allows less side shift over the same amount of travel vs. a shorter bar.

[chev-obsession]

It's been a while since my last post. I've got a few things done since then. I got the rear end all buttoned up and now its sitting on all 4's!!!

I just sent the rods out to get re-sized and pistons put on. I ordered the rebuild kit and it should be back with the rods next week. I also need to order some vortec headds.

I feel like its just a matter of buttoning up little things. ( and putting the motor together!)

Here is some pics!

[chev-obsession]

Ok, well i havent posted anything on here in a long time! I took a little break from the truck and recently just started working on it more. Ive been powder coating a lot lately... making money!

In my spare time i made a stainless shroud and polished, needless to say im proud of it lol. well heres my progress pics, didnt relly take pics as i was going but now its about ready with a few more small parts!







I will post more pics soon