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Old 10-17-2018, 01:35 PM   #26
TA_C10
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

PS: When I watched the videos from eastwood, the guy was using the eastwood 135? and he was saying he likes to turn the welder almost all the way up on the heat setting and when he welds I noticed he would just "tap" the gun trigger for each weld. I was doing that too when I started but my uncle was saying I shouldn't have to do this. But I think this eastwood guy method makes a nice flat puddle but when I transferred this method to my old truck sheet metal, I kept burning through in some weak spots and such so I went back to the welder table settings.

I also feel like I don't know how to aim the welding rod. Seems like I am supposed to hold the gun at an angle and hit the side of one of the panels I am butt welding and then move the gun upright to get the puddle inside the gap to fill? I try that I usually end up burning through. But if I get a blob of weld started somewhere, I usually just use that to aim at from there on so I don't burn through, its my starting point I guess you could say. But I'm pretty sure I was holding the gun at an angle too much so my welds weren't filling up the gap, or I wasn't moving my puddle down into the gap or something.

And if I use the high heat quick button trick, there is almost no time to move a puddle that way... Ugh. So many questions I have....
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:47 PM   #27
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

You couldn't pay me to cut that off. Your welds are fine. I just thought it might help explain why the back side was not filled.
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:24 AM   #28
lil hoodlum
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Howdy neighbor, I live in Denton.

I think you are doing a fine job! Nice project!
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:18 PM   #29
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Banks View Post
You couldn't pay me to cut that off. Your welds are fine. I just thought it might help explain why the back side was not filled.
Thanks. I didn't get any other advice so I went ahead and jumped under the cab and welded from the bottom too. More on that later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lil hoodlum View Post
Howdy neighbor, I live in Denton.

I think you are doing a fine job! Nice project!
Thank you sir.



I took a break from sheet metal work and started working on the frame again. Rain finally quit so I've had some 65-70 degree weather to work in and its been nice. I cut and installed my new c-notches from brothers trucks. For stage 1 I am leaving them bolted in. I don't have a welder that can weld that thick of steel. At least I don't think that 140 can weld the frame.... But I plan on welding it later on when I strengthen the frame a little as well in stage 2 of my build.

The c-notches took some time, but overall not a hard project. I simply made a cardboard template of the c-notch face, lined them up, traced the notch and got to cutting. I used a mix of cutting wheels and sawzaw. Rounded the edges for strength, shot them with some black epoxy, drilled the holes with a step bit, bolted them in. Done.


Here is the kit out of the box. Comes with everything needed to install. The metal is much thicker than factory frame so it makes me feel ok about reinforcement and rigidity. It's a CPP C-Notch kit, but from Brothers Trucks...





A few shots of the before frame. I got the idea to use two engine stands for a rotisserie from another member. I set it up this way for POR-15. But I was able to support the frame this high while I cut the c-notches. They need to be supported so that during installation you don't bend the frame at the weak point. I also did one side at a time which I'm sure also helped that factor.









Marked for cutting.




Rounded the edges after cut, shot the frame and the new c-notch with a little black epoxy for rust protection and then bolted her in. I learned that you can pretty much line up the holes at the bottom of the frame(these existing frame holes get re-used with the notches) making it easier to install in the correct position. It's almost fool proof






















Few final shots...








.
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Last edited by TA_C10; 10-26-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:33 PM   #30
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Great pictures of good work. Do you plan to weld in the c-notch? I haven't welded mine yet but plan to, after I think I am low enough. If I dont think it is low enough for my liking I might do a small step notch, so I figure I'll wait so I dont ruin a sell-able part. Hows the sheet metal work going?
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:43 PM   #31
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

I couldn't quit there of course. I went ahead and cleaned up the frame, prepped it, and brushed on some POR-15. Check out this really cool picture. I use my google pixel 2 XL phone to take all my pictures. I also use google photos which has this cool feature where some pics it will auto fix them and then alert you asking if you want to save the photo. It's trying to get you to use their apps to modify pics of course but I like the features so I do use that app. Anyways, I thought this picture it fixed up looked really cool with a crazy Texas sky in the background.







I can't tell you how ingenious the idea was to make a rotisserie out of engine stands as it make painting the frame SO MUCH EASIER. Thanks to BRUCE88 for that idea you rock sir.

So again, I wire wheeled the whole frame. Yeah I saved time, but it was a hard dirty job. Sandblasting would have been the better and faster way to go. But I saved a little cash so whatever. So Sunday night after the c-notches I cleaned up the frame a little more with a wire brush, then blew off the dust. I sprayed on the POR-15 metal prep with a 1 gallon weed sprayer. Kept doing that for 30 minutes keeping the frame wet. That stuff ate most of the rust and etched the metal turning it almost white like a calcium look. I rinsed it off with a water hose and put the frame inside the garage for the night.

Monday night I got home from work and brushed on the first coat of POR. I used semi-gloss black. That stuff is awesome. It really goes a long way with just a little bit of product. Stuffed it back in the garage. Then tonight(Tuesday), after work I pulled it out of the garage again, scuffed the whole frame with a red scotch bright, and gave it a second coat. I did 2 coats with a single quart of POR-15 and still had just a little bit left over.

I did my research on this stuff and ended up buying 2 quarts of POR semi-gloss black, and also bought a pint of the POR top coat with UV protectant for my springs and other parts I paint that may see a little sunlight. But they all said get 2 quarts. Well i did it with one quart. But I think I may need the second quart still to do my a-arms, trailing arms, etc so I'm not sending that last quart back...


Some pics here. This is after the first coat. I will have more pics of final second coat later when I start putting together the rest of the suspension parts and get her back on her own wheels! But the second coat doesn't look much different than the first coat. This stuff is thick looking when it dries. And it almost looks like a powder coat.




















.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:46 PM   #32
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
Great pictures of good work. Do you plan to weld in the c-notch? I haven't welded mine yet but plan to, after I think I am low enough. If I dont think it is low enough for my liking I might do a small step notch, so I figure I'll wait so I dont ruin a sell-able part. Hows the sheet metal work going?

Yeah in stage 2 I plan to box in the frame in a few select areas and when i do that I will get me a 220 volt welder so I can weld on the frame. I just don't trust my current welder to weld the frame. Experience bing the biggest factor. The Vulcan 140 might be able to do it, but I will wait.
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Old 11-05-2018, 02:18 PM   #33
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Progress Update: Still moving along with suspension.

Got the control arms and trailing arms skinned and painted. Seems like this process takes forever. Keep finding parts that need sanding, cleaning, POR...






After the POR metal prep:




Had to repair one of the trailing arms. The Vulcan 140 seemed to weld this up fine with the heat just right. Used other frame pieces I cut off to get the welder settings right.

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Old 11-05-2018, 02:27 PM   #34
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Assembly of new MOOG suspension parts. Got the axle cleaned up and POR15.



















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Old 11-06-2018, 01:31 PM   #35
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Here are a bunch of pics of more suspension parts being installed. Pretty standard. Everything installed as designed. MOOG suspension parts and Brothers Trucks.

Let me know if you guys can see the pics, using a new way to post.

These new spindles, rotors, calipers, pads all came assembled and ready to bold on. I removed the calipers and painted everything first then installed. 2.5" drop spindles. In my last post those springs are 2" drop springs all apart of the brothers kit.









Converted from drum to disc up front. Boy are they tight in those 15" rims, whew...







Here are a few pics of the rear. 2" lowering blocks, 3.5" lowering springs. Or is it 4" lowering springs and 1.5" blocks.... I can't remember... The c-notches weren't necessary to just drive but if I ever load the truck up(which I plan to use as a daily and it may haul dirt a couple times) the notch allows for full travel.





I'm going to have to cut some of those threads off, they are pretty long. I suppose the new ubolts are universal for different size blocks.

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Old 11-06-2018, 01:43 PM   #36
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

New steering gear, came from rock-auto, got a heavy duty unit instead of standard. Also upgrading to power steering with the new LS going in. I replaced all the tie-rods, and their components as well. Only thing original is the long steering rod and the idler arm bracket.















New trailing arm bushings, these were not easy to replace until i figured out the proper tools to use...


















My posts are very pic heavy, I always like pictures to reference
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Old 11-15-2018, 11:01 PM   #37
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

More progress.

Front and rear sway bars installed. Brothers kit.
Rear shock relocation brackets installed. CPP via the Brothers kit.
New drop shocks installed on all 4. Brothers kit.

Having help from a buddy would have made the job a lot easier but I managed. A neighbor came over and helped me with the front. Basically you just assemble the whole thing. Mock it up. Mark your holes. Drill. Install.

But of course I got upgraded sway bar up front, and rear never existed. So the front stock sway bar brackets had to be removed as they didn't work anymore. So that meant cross cutting the rivet heads, air hammer to pop the rivets out, then expanding the holes with a step bit for the new bolts, and all over my new POR15 job. Not that I was too worried about that but wish I mocked it up before I painted....

Same goes for the rear shock relocator brackets. Wish i knew i needed those before I painted. So I ended up using some VHT gloss black enamel(matches the POR15 pretty good) on the holes I cut.

The rear shock re-locator brackets were same, pop the rivets out, expand holes, paint for rust. Not much to them really.


Rear shock locator bracket next to the old bracket.





Lower shock relocator bracket next to original:




Installed:




I didn't like the bolts that came in the relocator kit for the lower shock mount. It was just a bolt. So I bought 1 new lower shock bolt and reused one of the original ones still in good shape. They seemed to fit and setup the angles a lot better. Also had to enlarge the bracket hole to accept the new bolt.




When it came to the rear sway bar install, the kit came with these brackets to attach the poly mount. It mounts under the trailing arms. Well the dang holes didn't line up right to be on one side of the trailing arm nor did they line up right to put one hole on one side of the arm and the other hole on the opposite side. So I found a solution. I enlarged the holes so the bolt had enough room to slide apart to get the bolts installed on opposite sides of the trailing arms. Used a double washer deal to keep the bolt from sliding through the enlarged holes. The nuts on top of the trailing arm lips was far enough away I could get a wrench on the nuts too. I had to use the "small space" washers too, worked out good.







And this is the only pic I got of the front sway bar. Sorry guys, spoiler alert, sneak peak of my next post coming soon...


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Old 11-17-2018, 01:47 PM   #38
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

so cool, I love the driveway builds and the LS.. keep up the great work
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