Lift Help for 4x4 GMC

[SangerV]

Hey all I'm new at this and need some advise on correcting a mess. Previous owner lifted the front end by separating the shackle frame mount from the hanger and inserting (welding) 4" rectangular tube in between to install a brush bumper. I want to restore to original configuration with oem bumper. I have a new shackle and hanger and want to lift by the same amount with a block between springs and axle. Question is how tall a block to achieve the same lift ? 4" ? Thanks

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by SangerV

Hey all I'm new at this and need some advise on correcting a mess. Previous owner lifted the front end by separating the shackle frame mount from the hanger and inserting (welding) 4" rectangular tube in between to install a brush bumper. I want to restore to original configuration with oem bumper. I have a new shackle and hanger and want to lift by the same amount with a block between springs and axle. Question is how tall a block to achieve the same lift ? 4" ? Thanks

Do not use blocks for lift in the front end. Get springs. Where did you get new shackle hangers for the front? Anyhow, you can use lift blocks in the rear but not the front. It is dangerous and unsafe. You can use a 1" zero rate because it acts like a spring in the pack, other than that, no blocks in the front.

Please post some pics of our current setup.


j

[sweetk30]

x2 NO BLOCKS IN FRONT

x2 on post pics so we can help you much faster and better than guessing .

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

x2 NO BLOCKS IN FRONT
x2 on post pics so we can help you much faster and better than guessing .

will do

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Do not use blocks for lift in the front end. Get springs. Where did you get new shackle hangers for the front? Anyhow, you can use lift blocks in the rear but not the front. It is dangerous and unsafe. You can use a 1" zero rate because it acts like a spring in the pack, other than that, no blocks in the front. Please post some pics of our current setup. j

I found some original shackles & hangers here. The height it is lifted is about correct and I want to keep the lift the same.
Pictures:

[jeffahart]

Very interesting, How does it ride? Just curious. Anyhow, if you want to go back to an OE bumper you need the rest of the frame horn. Here's a picture of the front of my frame horns, you can probably find a better picture out there, this is one I have on file.

I've seen some funky stuff, that just might be a case of... ugly works!

Anyhow, cut grind get stuff cleaned up for your new shackle mounts and get the frame horn tips. And get the proper lift springs.

j

Horn tips

[SangerV]

[QUOTE=jeffahart;8362093]Very interesting, How does it ride? Just curious. Anyhow, if you want to go back to an OE bumper you need the rest of the frame horn. Here's a picture of the front of my frame horns, you can probably find a better picture out there, this is one I have on file.
I've seen some funky stuff, that just might be a case of... ugly works!
Anyhow, cut grind get stuff cleaned up for your new shackle mounts and get the frame horn tips. And get the proper lift springs.
j

Thanks for the advise. The ride is surprisingly good.
How do I know what spring will produce the correct (same) lift ?
Are horn tips readily available either oem or aftermarket ?

[jeffahart]

[quote=SangerV;8362111]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Very interesting, How does it ride? Just curious. Anyhow, if you want to go back to an OE bumper you need the rest of the frame horn. Here's a picture of the front of my frame horns, you can probably find a better picture out there, this is one I have on file.
I've seen some funky stuff, that just might be a case of... ugly works!
Anyhow, cut grind get stuff cleaned up for your new shackle mounts and get the frame horn tips. And get the proper lift springs.
j

Thanks for the advise. The ride is surprisingly good.
How do I know what spring will produce the correct (same) lift ?
Are horn tips readily available either oem or aftermarket ?

As far as lift, nothing is exact from system to system. When you get a 4" lift kit with rear blocks, the front sits higher than the rear. You would really need to measure to the frame and get a stock profile measurement. But, if you have 4" blocks in the rear you could get 4" springs and a 1" zero rate leaf/block for the rear to level it off. If what you have is more like 3" in the front then you might not be happy with the extra inch. In short, I don't know what would give you exact same height you have now. I think you are assuming 4".

For the horns, you need to whack them off another frame. The bumper mounts snug to that horn and has braces from the ends of the bumper going to the frame. You need to finesse the horns on there so the bumper fits nice.


j


j

[SangerV]

[quote=jeffahart;8362119]

Originally Posted by SangerV

As far as lift, nothing is exact from system to system. When you get a 4" lift kit with rear blocks, the front sits higher than the rear. You would really need to measure to the frame and get a stock profile measurement. But, if you have 4" blocks in the rear you could get 4" springs and a 1" zero rate leaf/block for the rear to level it off. If what you have is more like 3" in the front then you might not be happy with the extra inch. In short, I don't know what would give you exact same height you have now. I think you are assuming 4".

For the horns, you need to whack them off another frame. The bumper mounts snug to that horn and has braces from the ends of the bumper going to the frame. You need to finesse the horns on there so the bumper fits nice.

j

j

Thanks J

[sweetk30]

and to possibly correct your wording .

the front is just the eye of the spring hanger . the shackle is in the rear under the cab . just ahead of the cab mount .

do you have any pics of that area ? i think with the front all goofed up what might they have done back there .

best to measure center of fender wheel opening now to ground . perform the rework and then re measure and order a set of springs for that amount of difference .

it ride good cause there stock no lift springs by the looks of it .

2 good brand of lift spring for off the shelf is tuff country = good bang for the buck and great ride . then BDS = premium spring and top shelf stuff . most guys are super happy with just tuff country .

now ruff country are stiff and lots of guys complain about the ride . i have removed there springs for people and swapped in tuff country .

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

and to possibly correct your wording .

the front is just the eye of the spring hanger . the shackle is in the rear under the cab . just ahead of the cab mount .

do you have any pics of that area ? i think with the front all goofed up what might they have done back there .

best to measure center of fender wheel opening now to ground . perform the rework and then re measure and order a set of springs for that amount of difference .

it ride good cause there stock no lift springs by the looks of it .

2 good brand of lift spring for off the shelf is tuff country = good bang for the buck and great ride . then BDS = premium spring and top shelf stuff . most guys are super happy with just tuff country .

now ruff country are stiff and lots of guys complain about the ride . i have removed there springs for people and swapped in tuff country .

Thanks for the info. Please let me know if you run across frame horns. I will check out BDS

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

i think with the front all goofed up what might they have done back there.

The back of spring looks to be factory

[sweetk30]

i dont know if 73-80 frame horns are the same shape / style but i have some on hand .

and also check out tuff country . get a feel of both brands bds and tuff country .

my trucks except 1 have tuff country for reg use . the other has bds but its a special big built truck and i wanted the best tall ride of leaf springs so thats why i did bds on that one .

[GSP7]

What is that other stuff you have mounted in between your frame rails?

[sweetk30]

thats a winch stuffed in there and the cable would normally come out the lic plate area you cut out for it to pass threw .

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by GSP7

What is that other stuff you have mounted in between your frame rails?

Yes Winch, sits behind stock bumper.

j

[CRUSH2.0]

[QUOTE=jeffahart;8362840]Yes Winch, sits behind
That’s cool, who does that stuff?
Posted via Mobile Device

[GSP7]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

thats a winch stuffed in there and the cable would normally come out the lic plate area you cut out for it to pass threw .

Oh duh,,, I didnt even think about a winch

[dozerbill72]

As a rule of thumb for ever 1 inch you lift one end of the spring it will get you about 1/2 inch of over all lift. Looking at your pictures assuming the rear of the spring " shackle end" hasn't been altered I would say you have around 2" of lift. As others have stated do NOT use blocks in the front. If lift springs are not in the budget you could build your own spring pack using a mix of your front main leaf and some rears to get a 2" or so lift. It will not ride as smooth as it does now but will get started on the right track to correcting some of the previous modifications. FYI member Doo142 is up there in your neck of the woods and can more than likely hook you up on some frame horns. To help in your search 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive frame have the same shape of horns, the 4x4 will just have a few different holes in them.

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by dozerbill72

If lift springs are not in the budget you could build your own spring pack using a mix of your front main leaf and some rears to get a 2" or so lift. It will not ride as smooth as it does now but will get started on the right track to correcting some of the previous modifications..

if you have factory tappered leafs for a spring pack dont mix in reg style leafs . its just not the best way to do it . they both work different ways . ya guys do it but not the best .

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by dozerbill72

As a rule of thumb for ever 1 inch you lift one end of the spring it will get you about 1/2 inch of over all lift. Looking at your pictures assuming the rear of the spring " shackle end" hasn't been altered I would say you have around 2" of lift. As others have stated do NOT use blocks in the front. If lift springs are not in the budget you could build your own spring pack using a mix of your front main leaf and some rears to get a 2" or so lift. It will not ride as smooth as it does now but will get started on the right track to correcting some of the previous modifications. FYI member Doo142 is up there in your neck of the woods and can more than likely hook you up on some frame horns. To help in your search 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive frame have the same shape of horns, the 4x4 will just have a few different holes in them.

Thanks for taking the time to post your advise/input.

[special-K]

What you have there is really not a bad idea. Ford thought it was a "Better Idea" when it was building the F250 'Highboys'. It's better than the forbidden blocks, but anything is for that matter. It's better than even soft(er) riding lift springs because the stock ride was retained... and back when whoever did it they saved the cost of lift springs. It's better than a body lift because it lifts the frame, not just the body. It's something that is done on far more modified trucks than most street trucks you see. It's the type of thing I did to mount 2.5t Rockwells under a GMC C1500 mud bogger I built with my brother-in-law we ran 44s on.

If you want your GMC to sit like this and have a factory bumper...



... I have a simple solution. Let's trade! I love your truck!!! (Love mine, too)

[68panelman]

I too would leave it be, it looks pretty substantial. Unless you are going back to a factory show truck, leave it alone. You said that the ride was good, leave it alone. Put on a custom HD bumper and enjoy that beautiful truck.
Are those 19.5's or 17.5" wheels? , More info and pics of your rig please

[sweetk30]

the orignal poster has not posted pics of the shackle end .

if this was only lowered on the front end and no other correction made as in lowered & or longer shackles or angled wedges under the springs to axle then i bet the caster is way off .

this could be a little bit good and a lot bad .

so yes it does look strong but if the rest of it was not addressed during this mod then there is prob a few other problems that need fixed to be 100%

[SangerV]

Originally Posted by special-K

What you have there is really not a bad idea. Ford thought it was a "Better Idea" when it was building the F250 'Highboys'. It's better than the forbidden blocks, but anything is for that matter. It's better than even soft(er) riding lift springs because the stock ride was retained... and back when whoever did it they saved the cost of lift springs. It's better than a body lift because it lifts the frame, not just the body. It's something that is done on far more modified trucks than most street trucks you see. It's the type of thing I did to mount 2.5t Rockwells under a GMC C1500 mud bogger I built with my brother-in-law we ran 44s on.

If you want your GMC to sit like this and have a factory bumper...

Attachment 1830092

... I have a simple solution. Let's trade! I love your truck!!! (Love mine, too)

You have a great truck ! Im kinda partial to the 67's but not sure the direction for this truck yet. This fall will I know more. Might let it go as I bought a nice 68