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Old 05-07-2002, 02:31 PM   #1
bubbastrick
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Exclamation Disc Brake Conversion

I have a 69 SWB that I would like to swap disc brakes onto. I want to know what you guys think is the best strategy for doing this swap. I have read different articles about just swapping the spindles and rotors, and then others have swapped the whole front crossmember. Which way do you reccomend and what parts did you end up using?
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Old 05-07-2002, 06:17 PM   #2
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Come on guys!
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Old 05-07-2002, 06:28 PM   #3
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If you are getting item from the boneyard, try any spindles up to '87. The catch is you will need an adapter for the tie rod end to the 69 adjuster sleeve, classic performance sells them. Then you will need ball joints to match the year of spindles you have. '71-'72 are the same uppers '73-'87 have same uppers '71-'87 have same lowers. Something else to watch out for is rotor thickness. 1" and 1-1/4" are the to factory thickness's. Get the spindles which have 1-1/4" rotors as the larger rotors are more readily avaliable.
That's about if for boneyard parts. Personally I reccomend buying a kit which includes everything you need. try some of the vendors who are on the board.
Hop this helps.
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Old 05-07-2002, 06:39 PM   #4
Longhorn Man
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And if you already have nice 6 lug rims, you can get 6 lug rotors from GMCPaul.

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'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
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Old 05-08-2002, 04:23 PM   #5
bluec10
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I'm currently in the process of installing an '85 front crossmember, control arms, steering, and spindles in my '68. The whole thing looks like a bolt-in. Lots of '73-85's are in the bone yard, so why not just do the whole thing?

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Dream: '68 C-10 Custom with a 396 and a 700R4
Current Reality: '68 C-10, 250, 3 speed, parts in two garages, but lots of hope.
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Old 05-08-2002, 05:31 PM   #6
Blue68
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I swapped the whole enchilada and went with Energy Suspension bushings. The deal is you brake line plumbing changes (does anyway). You can use the newer tie rods if you swap out the drag link (there are more than one length I think). Then you can use all GM parts available from you local parts house. Do consider the 6 lug rotors (and GET the 1.25 ones). Don't forget about the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Get new on these items. Early classic can help you out on these as well as the plumbing and brackets for the prop valve.

Only drawback I've seen with the newer crossmember is the springs seem to set the truck a little higher. May just be perception. If you go with a complete kit, spindles made for the setup, then you'll have considerably fewer hassles. Depends on you budget and do-it-yourself attitude.

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'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4, Thorley Headers, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.
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'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.
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