250 6 Cyl 2 piece rear main

[Husker]

Is it possible to change rear main seal out while engine still in truck? I have the tranny, bell housing and clutch out. has anyone tried?
thanks
Ron

[YoungPup1977]

sure ya can....

you could almost pull the engine for the time it would take under the truck since you have the trans out of it.....plus while its out you could paint the engine Husker Red....GBR !!!!!!

[Husker]

Thanks for replying, I really don't have the room right now to pull engine. it would be Ideal if I could. As far as the Big Red, not doing so good this season.
Ron

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Husker

Is it possible to change rear main seal out while engine still in truck? I have the tranny, bell housing and clutch out. has anyone tried?
thanks
Ron

Husker,
I have done it. You will need to disconnect the front engine mounts and lift the engine about 4", and hold it there. That will allow you to remove the oil pan. Otherwise, the front of the oil pan will not clear the front cross member.
Look carefully at these pictures and you will see a 2X4 that I slipped under the crank pulley. I used a shop floor jack under that 2X4 (maybe a 4X4) to lift the front enough to get the pan out. Remember to "clock" the new seal.
Jay

[Husker]

Thanks Lugnutz you are a True asset, also YoungPup.
Ron

[Backpayne]

I did the same as Lugnutz. It was a major effing PITA! The rear main seal isn't difficult, but trying to get the oil pan to seal with the 4 piece gasket set was awful. After it leaking twice I used the two log side gaskets and "Right Stuff" gasket maker on front and rear. Worked like a charm.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Backpayne

I did the same as Lugnutz. It was a major effing PITA! The rear main seal isn't difficult, but trying to get the oil pan to seal with the 4 piece gasket set was awful. After it leaking twice I used the two log side gaskets and "Right Stuff" gasket maker on front and rear. Worked like a charm.

Haha! Yeah, it's wasn't fun. I use RTV like a 2nd grader uses finger paint. I get it all over EVERYTHING. When I was done, it looked like an RTV explosion!

[Husker]

Originally Posted by Backpayne

I did the same as Lugnutz. It was a major effing PITA! The rear main seal isn't difficult, but trying to get the oil pan to seal with the 4 piece gasket set was awful. After it leaking twice I used the two log side gaskets and "Right Stuff" gasket maker on front and rear. Worked like a charm.

Did you just leave the old front and rear in place and used Right Stuff over them?
Thanks
Ron

[Backpayne]

I only used Right Stuff instead of front and rear rubber gaskets. The rear rubber gasket would never work as it wasn't even the right shape to seal against the rear main cap.

[Husker]

And it sealed up, Wow. You just filled the Cavity Top and Bottom with RS? How long has it held up? I think mine is leaking from the front Cam/Timing cover.
Thanks

[Backpayne]

Ever used Right Stuff? It's expensive for a reason...it is fantastic! It has not leaked 1 drop in mearly a year and a half.

[Husker]

No I haven't but I know how bad some Rubber seals like mains leak. I will have to try it.
Just fill the void and install the pan?
Thanks again
Ron

[Husker]

Thanks fellas
Ron

[GRX]

Great advice thus far. With puctures no less. Members here are indeed a real asset.

Would like to add that a piece of stout copper wire is nice for pushing the old seal out.

Apply a thin film of RTV to the main cap to prevent seepage between that and block. Some people like to install the seal offset slightly so the ends don't line up with block & cap.