Chainsaw chain

[kingsolver72]

I'm needing a couple extra chains for my saws. Got a telescopic pole saw and MS 250 with a 16" bar. Been cutting hedge, oak, locust and maple mostly.
What do you guys use? Oregon, Stihl, Husqvarna.... also, how are you storing the extra chains?

[truckster]

I use Oregon chains, and I keep a spare in my chainsaw case. I have a couple hanging on the pegboard in my shop as well.

I've never used any other brand of chain, so I can't really compare, but I've cut a fair amount of cherry wood with my saw, and that's some really hard wood.

[special-K]

I've never cared what brand chain I've used and never noticed one lasting or performing any better than another. I used t sharpen my own but have taken to paying for the service. I have 6-8 for my one saw and when it gets down to only two unused I take them in. They come back with a tag wired to them that holds them all together. I hang them on a hook in my workshop and I also hang the dulled ones. But keeping the fresh ones tied by that tag lets me know which is which. I haul them hanging if I can (I hate when they get all crossed up!). If not, I lay them out on the floor. The guy who sharpens them can straighten that puzzle out in a jiffy. I need to learn his trick. My saw is a Husqvarna, so some chains are that brand from where I buy parts, some are Oregon because that's what my sharpener has at his shop, and others are whatever brand that I grabbed on days I set out without my spares.

[GR8-68]

I normally use oregon because that is what is readily available and they seem to last well. But I have used stihl also but do not really see a lot of difference as far as longevity.

[flashed]

I use Stihl mostly because that is what is available to me but like Oregon too ,most shops that sell the Oregon chains can cut to fit where Stihl is precut .I have Stihl Pro grade saws that work great as long as you dont put straight gas in them .I ruined a brand new saw that way right after my wife died ,was not thinking clearly I guess. Im like K ,I dont sharpen my chains anymore ,keep extras and take them in for sharpening .

[mongocanfly]

Oregon chains are all I've used...I also bought a electric chainsaw sharpener similar to what they use at the saw shop from cardboard freight..they had em on sale for 19.99..its paid for itself many times over

[GOPAPA]

My dad was a logger and he used Oregon Chains for all his Chain Saws he ever had ,,he never took his saws in to be sharpened and he never used a clamp on guage to sharpen his chains ,,just more to lug around when working in the woods.. 30 degrees for all cutting ..and he had a good eye too. (He tought me and this is how I do it too)
He filed the rakers accordingly to what wood he was cutting ,,filed off more for soft wood and less for hard wood. Back in his day there was only one brand OREGON CHAIN and he lived in Oregon,,(just thru that in )

[Stocker]

Nothing but Oregon here, that seems to be the only chain available. I wish I was as accurate as Larry but I'm not, so I carry a file guide. The spare gets folded up in an old saw chain box.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Nothing but Oregon here, that seems to be the only chain available. I wish I was as accurate as Larry but I'm not, so I carry a file guide. The spare gets folded up in an old saw chain box.

I wish I was as accurate as my dad too,,, but I ain't and probably wear away more teethe than one should ,,lol He did teach me how to take the master links and use them to shorten a chain length if needed ,,sort like my old bicycle chain repair days...

[snj8198]

When i was logging i ordered Oregon chain by the spool along with additional cutting teeth, drivers, presets and straps and used a Tigercat chain breaker and preset driver for building my own. I went through enough chain to warrant a grinder but I also have done plenty by hand in the field. I prefer using the gauge vs free hand because the gauge sits on top of the tooth limiting the position of the file to actually hit the bite of the tooth and not just taking material out of the belly. Good luck getting ole time loggers to do that tho. I also spent years as my side work sharpening different size chains on a jig/chop grinder such as .375", .404", and the large .750" for clipper and processor bar saws.

OP: as for storage of spare chains: it's really not necessary to do anything but if you are in a very humid area either spray with wd40 or lightly coat the chain or dip it in any fresh oil, sling off the excess, and store in a heavy ziploc bag.

IIRC your Stihl 250 with 16" bar should use a .050" gauge chain with (.375")3/8" pitch and 56 driver loop. I don't know about your pole saw tho.

[kingsolver72]

Thanks for all the replies!!
snj8198, my polesaw is a Stihl HT 101. My brother in law gave it to me a couple of years ago. I notice It'll leak bar oil. I try to remember not to fill it back up after I use it.

[TJ's Chevy]

Stihl chain is the best out there, best cutting edge and a harder tooth. Stihl chain tends to take longer to dull....but if you can't keep a bar out of dirt then all chain brands are gonna dull equally fast. I like hand sharpening a stihl chain better than oregon....after sharpening over 5000+ chains in 3 years I get picky. Just my two cents. I store extra chains in their box's on a shelf in a dry place.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by snj8198

When i was logging i ordered Oregon chain by the spool along with additional cutting teeth, drivers, presets and straps and used a Tigercat chain breaker and preset driver for building my own. I went through enough chain to warrant a grinder but I also have done plenty by hand in the field. I prefer using the gauge vs free hand because the gauge sits on top of the tooth limiting the position of the file to actually hit the bite of the tooth and not just taking material out of the belly. Good luck getting ole time loggers to do that tho. I also spent years as my side work sharpening different size chains on a jig/chop grinder such as .375", .404", and the large .750" for clipper and processor bar saws.

OP: as for storage of spare chains: it's really not necessary to do anything but if you are in a very humid area either spray with wd40 or lightly coat the chain or dip it in any fresh oil, sling off the excess, and store in a heavy ziploc bag.

IIRC your Stihl 250 with 16" bar should use a .050" gauge chain with (.375")3/8" pitch and 56 driver loop. I don't know about your pole saw tho.

Pretty common for 250's to use 16" bar in .325 pitch .063 gauge.

[special-K]

I used to sharpen by eye and feel with great results. Not sure why I went to dropping them off. I guess price was cheap and time was short. I do carry the files when cutting in case I need to touch one up. I always sharpened my circular saw blades till it went to carbide tips. Maybe that's when I stopped doing chains. It's good to know how to do things even if you don't always do it yourself

[Low Elco]

Just bought a new ms250 and love it! Just did a whole tree and a bunch of trimmin' never missed a beat.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Stihl chain is the best out there, best cutting edge and a harder tooth. Stihl chain tends to take longer to dull....but if you can't keep a bar out of dirt then all chain brands are gonna dull equally fast. I like hand sharpening a stihl chain better than oregon....after sharpening over 5000+ chains in 3 years I get picky. Just my two cents. I store extra chains in their box's on a shelf in a dry place.

This ^^.

I've been using chain saws in my business for 35 years and always used and liked Oregon UNTIL a couple years back I bought a new Stihl top-handle pruning saw (191t-16"). I used it for months before I had to sharpen it. I was very impressed. I keep files in the truck for any sharpening in the field but I've gotten lazy and take them in for a $5 sharpening in the shop now.-BA

[Boog]

We use a Husqvarna saw in our business and Oregon chains. We've not used any other brands to compare but feel these are adequate for our needs. For several years I took chains to a shop for a $4 sharpening. I got tired of repeated trips there and back so I did some shopping and bought an Oregon bench sharpener for $200 just like the saw shop uses. At $4 per chain to sharpen it didn't take long at all to pay for the new sharpener. I've used it now for 10 years and I get uniform teeth on every chain.
Sharpen up a 6 pack of chains and head out to the woods. And leave the file in the tool box.

['63GENIII]

I honestly don't cut enough to really notice a difference between bars and chains but I do sharpen my own and pack them into the boxes they come in with a little squirt of oil. Not nearly professional sharpener or cutter (Im the one that the guide was made for) but they work well for me.

The 028 has a 20" Stihl bar (which is way too big for it) with an Oregon chain and it cuts OK. Probably due to the big bar.

The 038 Mag has a 24" Oregon bar with a Oregon chain. When this one is sharp it peels off 1" curls of near anything it touches.

Both chains are, dare I admit "low kick back" FWIW.

I think we may need a chainsaw thread here soon!