05 Silverado brake bleeding

[pwdcougar]

Our 05 work truck blew out another rusted brake line the other day. While sitting waiting for repair the master cylinder ran dry. Am I going to have to bench bleed both the master and the ABS module? Also who is the moron engineer who put the module under the truck????

Will something like the Motive power bleeder system work for this?

Thanks

Paul

[68is4me]

Good grief I know the feeling. I had to put new rear calipers on my 06 3/4 after install I was bleeding the new calipers and blew out the rear brake line.

I would just fix the line maybe even leave one end open on the new line, fill the reservoir and let gravity do its thing and let the fluid run out. Then bleed the lines and hopefully all the bleeders open up.

[pwdcougar]

Originally Posted by 68is4me

Good grief I know the feeling. I had to put new rear calipers on my 06 3/4 after install I was bleeding the new calipers and blew out the rear brake line.

I would just fix the line maybe even leave one end open on the new line, fill the reservoir and let gravity do its thing and let the fluid run out. Then bleed the lines and hopefully all the bleeders open up.

The right rear bleeder has been open for two days now without a single drop of fluid. I’ve used the MightyVac system and don’t like how air sneaks past the threads in the bleeder and makes it look like there is still air in the line.

[PGSigns]

I just went through this with my 03 when it blew a line and I replaced the entire set of lines metal and rubber. I got the classic tube set from Summit. You can pressure bleed the system and get 90% of the air out. There will still be air trapped in the antilock controller. The best way to get rid of it is with a scan tool that will run the controller through the bleed cycle. If you can't find a scanner to borrow you can use the gravel/ dirt method. It does work but takes forever. Bleed all you can, you will get a crappy pedal but the truck will stop. On the gravel or dirt nail the gas and get up to about 10 miles and hour and jam the brakes. When the tires lock up you should feel the controller cycle. Now in reverse do the same thing. Repeat five or six times and then rebleed the system with the pressure bleeder. You may have to do this a few times but it does work.
Jimmy

[Keith Seymore]

I just replaced all the lines on my '04.

Traditional gravity bleed, no messing with the ABS, and it was fine.

Sometimes you have to use the vacuum to get the fluid to flow and then once it starts it's good.

K

[rpmerf]

Had a of of fun with this on my 97.

When using a vacuum bleeder, put teflon tape on the threads to seal it from pulling air.

What I have always thought wasn't a great design, is bleeding basically forces you to push bubbles downward to get them out of the system. I found a way to push them back up.

Here is what I did that worked after years of replacing just about every part in the braking system. Pedal still isn't great, but it can lock the tires on dry pavement. The pedal was nice and stiff after I adjusted the shoes, but they seem to have gone out of adjustment again.

#1 - do whatever bleeding method to get fresh fluid through all the lines. I'll put a vacuum bleeder on, teflon the threads on the bleeder, a use a good head on the vacuum line so it doesn't pull air. I run the clear vacuum line go upward so I can see bubble well. While there is vacuum on it, pump the brakes. once you see a good fluid level go through the line, you should be good to move onto the next side.

#2 - reverse bleed. For this you want to be sure the fluid in the lines is all clean. You are going to push fluid from the bleeder to the master. To do this, I used a mason jar with some fitting JB Welded to the top, the vacuum line from my vacuum pump to push fluid through, and a regulator connected to my air compressor. The line that goes to be bleeder goes to the bottom of the jar so pressurizing the jar will push fluid out. Apply about 3-5 PSI from the compressor. You want to keep an eye on the master to be sure it does not overflow.

I think the pressure bleeding works well for the bubbles that don't want to push down. You get to push them back up and out of the system. There are proper kits for reverse bleeding if you want to google around a bit.

I've wanted to try pressure bleeding, but I think I ended up just making a mess. I used an old cap instead of a proper kit, so that might bad been why.

[77c10bowtie]

i would bleed the lines then bleed the abs, the best way to get air out of the abs is to force the abs to cycle, do several very hard panic stops getting the abs to run and that will cycle any air out of it, then bleed the lines again.

[richards72chevy]

So would air in the abs cause the brake light to stay on?I just replaced the master cylinder on my 02 Silverado and the light will not come off. I bench bled the master cylinder and flushed new fluid through the lines then bench bled.

[77c10bowtie]

It's possible if the master still has air in it the pedal could be low. Have you looked at the brake switch to see how and when it makes contact there might be some adjustment still

[richards72chevy]

Originally Posted by 77c10bowtie

It's possible if the master still has air in it the pedal could be low. Have you looked at the brake switch to see how and when it makes contact there might be some adjustment still

I haven't looked at the switch yet.I think I may have a short some where on the wiring.I hosed off the master cylinder area after I bled the brakes and the light goes off temporarily.It also flashes on/off when I drive over a mud puddle.