New Alternator w/internal Voltage Regulator Question

[5150]

This isn't the normal question of how to wire it up. It will be soon but not now. I'm cleaning my original wiring harness up and disregarding wires that I don't need, like Heater, wipers, etc.

Since I'm running a serpentine setup with an alternator w/internal voltage regulator what can I get rid of with the old volt reg wiring??

What new wires do I need to run from the new alt to the fuse box/ignition/battery??

thanks

[VetteVet]

I have found this to very helpful. Start on page 7.0
http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...0501Manual.pdf

There are several more websites for the conversion including one on the
forums in the FAQs. I'm kinda curious, as long as you have been a member
and as many posts as you have, have you not seen several threads on this subject?

[5150]

yeah, I have and you helped me when I made the conversion the last time. I still don't remember how to do it.

I was trying to figure out what wires I can get rid of. My blazer is still in the body shop, I'm just cleaning wires and cutting the useless ones.

[VetteVet]

As it pertains to the external regulator wiring you can eliminate some of the wiring by following what Toddtheodd has shown us in this thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

Now if you are going to use a CS style alternator you will have to do some minor changes. The details are important. Do you have a charging light( idiot ) or an amp gauge?
I am going to make some circuit changes on my truck as far as the alternator to battery and the starter solenoid but most of the wires will have to stay.

[5150]

Yes, I'm using the CS style alternator. I'm still using the original cluster with amp gauge.

[5150]

so according to Todd's write-up I just need to crimp the brown and blue wires together. At the same time the red and yellow wires along with the connector can be done away with.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by 5150

so according to Todd's write-up I just need to crimp the brown and blue wires together. At the same time the red and yellow wires along with the connector can be done away with.

As noted in the first part of this website the brown and blue wires can be connected but he also notes that you can just connect the brown wire directly to the alternator and not use the blue wire.http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html

The rub here is that you are using the CS style which has four wires that connect to the alternator. The same connections are used on the CS as on the SI but you have to refer to the notes at the bottom of the page because you do not have the idiot light. That means that you will have to make the connection where the brown wire would go using a resistor. This is explained in the painless wiring website.--http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf
Refer to figures 7.2D and 7.2F you will have to use an 82 Ohm 5 Watt resister in place of the charging light (idiot). From what I have read you can run wire 914 which takes the place of the brown wire from any keyed on power source. As noted in figure 7.2A if you are getting feedback from the alternator to the ignition source and the engine won't shut off with the key
you will need the diode pictured and wire it as shown. I have not done the CS conversion yet and I have an idiot light in my conversion so I will research all this more and post up what I find.

[thesteppenwolf]

oks, I am doing the same thing here, I do have a factory amp meter in thr cluster, I used a 5 watt 5 ohm resitor in-line (with the brown I believe), tied the blue and red (plug)together at the alternator, what in all of this allows my amp meter work?.....