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Old 11-14-2017, 04:11 AM   #26
In The Ten Ring
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

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Originally Posted by RedRider View Post
Removed my cab bolts yesterday, no spot welds.

FWIW: 1970 C-10 built in Fremont.
No spot welds on your cab to frame bolts? On behalf of 99% of forum members, WE HATE YOU!

The Dremel Tool excels on small spot welds such as those.
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:47 AM   #27
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

I've found that dremel tool stones last only a very short time especially on hard welds. Better have a hand full of them.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:05 AM   #28
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Their wire brushes fly apart pretty quickly too but for small jobs and tight spaces, a Dremel excels.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:08 AM   #29
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Good info , Im about to remove a rusty cab , Im hoping to just cut with a sawsall from the bottom ,cab is too far gone to salvage anyway .
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:12 AM   #30
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

That should work.
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:48 PM   #31
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Just curious as I am going to be doing this same thing over the winter. Assuming that you didn't remove the front clip, did you have any issues with contact areas with doors v. front fenders? Looking at my 72, the doors are very close to the fender anyway and I was worried about jacking up the cab, even 1/4 an inch much less what it will take to replace the squashed bushings that are in there now. Currently the plan is to remove the front clip and maybe the bed, to make sure there is enough clearance.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #32
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Marine,

I did one side at a time, I would jack up one side on a wheeled (floor) hydraulic jack just enough to do the job. But there is a lot more to this than you think.

I couldn't get the new bushing to fit....my cab had rotated some degrees counterclockwise over time! So I left in one rear bolt (to keep most alignment), blocked up that side, then jacked up the other side. My dad used a large "C" welding clamp to rotate the cab over (clamping against a cab-frame support).

My original 1/8 inch shims were crap (I had one on each of the four frame mounts) so I had a local machine shop make me new ones. I used the kit from Classic Heartbeat. The owner will take the time to answer your questions on how to tighten.

The original rear bolts go into a cage nut from underneath, they have pointy ends to get into that free-floating nut. The new rear bolts are not pointy, you'll have to turn those on a grinding wheel to points.

To decrease the risk of broken bolts, I used a break-free spray on each nut for weeks! I used ZEP 45 but any breakfree should work.

Now comes the bad news. You cannot replace one set without replacing the other. You have 2 more bushings under the radiator core support. You have to replace those too or your lines will never line up again. So that means removing the entire front end!

The holes in the fenders are oversized, you'll have enough play to get your door-to-fender gaps right, or as right as you can. The fenders came off the assembly line without straight rear lines! It didn't matter to GM back then.

Now you know why I don't have my truck together yet. The good news is it will be so much easier to work on your engine with all that off. You'll have body rust there too, now is the time to fix that. We will walk you through this.

*You probably know this but it's too expensive to learn the hard way. Put a nut on the new rear bolt, then turn it to a point. Unscrew the nut to chase (straighten) those threads.

Last edited by In The Ten Ring; 11-14-2017 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:32 PM   #33
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

In The Ten Ring, Thanks for all the details. This does sound like an interesting but challenging project. What I am facing is that the cab may have rotated like yours, but for sure it is not sitting flat. The gap at the top of the right door is off so much that there is no way you can adjust the hinges. It is just too elongated. It looks like at least one corner will have to be shimmed quite a bit. Maybe as much as 3/8" but won't really know until we start. At least we have a lift to pick it up and move it around.

Was looking at Classic Heartbeat along with some others as a source for the bushing kit. If you are happy with what they sent you, just may go with them. Did you get Poly bushings?

Interesting about the bolts. We just happen to have a grinder so that shouldn't be too bad. For the lube to loosen rusted bolts, I like PB Blaster but as you say, there are many that work.

So my overall plan for the winter is to pull the front clip to do the body mounts (all of them). Align the doors to the cab, put the clip back on and align the front end starting at the doors. The cab will have to be shimmed to align with the bed. Right now it is about 1/2" low. When measuring from the frame to each side both the cab and bed about 3/4" to 1/2" too far towards the driver side. So a good amount of time just getting all the parts lined back up. The passenger door hits the fender when opening with a varying gap from about 3/4" when measured to the top of the door frame. If the frame didn't look so good, I would suspect that at one time it had been in a major wreck.

Thanksgiving weekend is set aside for some front end work and swapping out the gears, so probably will do this over a couple weekends sometime before Christmas. Don't want to rush too much. Work a bit, have a cigarette break, drink a beer, work some more...

I'll start a thread for these projects, trying to document as they progress. Not really good at pictures, but will try to have a few.

I do appreciate your offer for advice and will take you up on that. Please forgive the dumb questions as this is my first time replacing body mounts and then just wait for the body work questions...

Thanks,
David
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:52 PM   #34
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

I went with rubber bushings. I had been told poly bushings are too hard, you end up with a rougher ride, and they make noise.

Someone else will weigh in (hopefully) but I would think you'd have to start with the cab and then move into the front clip shimming.

Your frame may have twisted at some point.....that's at least possible. Now we really need someone more knowledgeable than me!

PB Blaster should work, it's the most popular. I only used Zep 45 since I have a case of it (used to sell the stuff and they stopped giving sales reps samples, I had to buy my own stock and use that for samples!.....company was going retail and laid off a bunch of us before I could find another job. It was the beginning of the Recession, just a bad time to be in sales).

I'd just take my time on the nuts....I hit them with Zep 45 and Zep Twister for a couple of weeks, each time I went into my garage for something else.

*Any time you get under a vehicle wear safety glasses.
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:24 PM   #35
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

This will take longer than you think.....it took me at least several months if not a year. I had to keep getting more info and finally have my dad over to help.
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:47 PM   #36
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Agreed, Cab first... I'm told that all other body parts adjust from there. I hope you are off base on the frame having issues. Thought of that, but trying to avoid checking it just yet.... Ignore it and it will go away... Hopefully if there is an issue with it, someone will have a good suggestion on fixing it. I just finished replacing all the suspension and really don't want to have to strip it all back off. Of course you do what is required.

I'll give the Zep 45 a try. Almost out of the PB and needed to restock. But I did get a jump start on spraying everything while doing the suspension. and will hit it again this weekend and next while doing the steering and rear end.

What you mention about the poly, is the question I was going to ask. I don't mind so much it riding a little stiffer, but any squeaks or rattles will drive me nuts.

Safety glasses - yes always a requirement. A few years ago I got a very small piece of steel stuck in the left eye. The Ophthalmologist used a dremel tool to literally grind it out. And that was after holding a needle sideways and dragging it across the eyeball trying to pop the sliver out. Wasn't very much fun...

Tomorrow my wife is having heart surgery (not open heart) so depending on her recovery, I may or may not be working on the truck much this weekend. But when it is back in the air, I'll start a new thread and post some pictures. Maybe my mistakes and dumb questions will help someone else out...

Again thanks for taking the time to offer advice.
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Old 11-14-2017, 06:12 PM   #37
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Someone else will just have to weigh in on the poly bushings.

If your truck can move you could run it over to a frame straightening shop and make sure it is not twisted. It would have to be easier to straighten a frame than try to shim up a bent one.
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:21 PM   #38
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

The truck is running very well. Spent the past year on the drive-train. All these projects are just making it look and handle better. The rear end is going to be swapped for 4.11's and will add a 700R4 eventually for the OD. I'm pretty good at the mechanical parts of rebuilds, just flaky in the body arena.

For taking it to a body/frame shop my problem is working some really long hours every day and there aren't any body shops around here that are open on weekends. Would have to take a vacation and arrange for someone to pick me up. Of course in writing this, the thought comes to mind that we do have a flat bed trailer.... Need to ponder that a little. It would ensure that there are no frame issues....

Though really at this point, I'm not sure it is an issue. The body mounts are all squished pretty flat and not exactly evenly... Of course the passenger door is hanging pretty weird. The hinges have a little play but hardly noticeable. Will look closer this weekend, put a tape measure across the diagonals, etc. When I completed the suspension, after the test drive, took measurements from the shop floor to each wheel well. The front was off by 1/8" and the rear was spot on. Body to tire measurements were perfect side to side. The 1/8" difference could be the passenger front tire is a little low. Will check that and remeasure. This is not proof positive as the frame could be bent up or down and the mount squashed lower or not as much, but the suspension does look good and even.

As with most everything a little more homework and time on the truck. Good thing I enjoy doing this stuff. Just need to convince the wife to give me a bigger allowance..
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:50 AM   #39
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

3/8 inch off? That's a lot man....at least I think so. I don't know....but that seems like a lot.

If the thing is mobile, get that frame checked out. If the frame isn't straight you will be chasing shim issues forever and you'll never get it right. Just like building a house, if the foundation isn't level and solid, you will never have a good result.

I have driven as far north as PA for a cowl and as far west as Nashville for doors and then the doors weren't there! 12 hours round trip driving for nothing. Your frame shop will be there, unlike those TN doors.

Tell you what man, I'd start my own thread on your possibly bent frame, that should get more knowledgeable replies than mine.
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:18 PM   #40
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

You might try loosening all 4 cab mount bolts. Maybe that will help. Also when you jack the cab up make sure there aren't any ground straps or something like that holding you back. Just an idea.
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:09 AM   #41
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

I recommend using rubber vs. poly mounts. I put Energy Suspension in mine many years ago and regret it ever since, they give a much harsher ride than rubber.
I've never figured out the rhyme or reason some front cab bolts are welded and others not. I've seen 67 Fremont trucks welded and late 72 Fremont trucks not welded and everything in between both ways??
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:38 AM   #42
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

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I've never figured out the rhyme or reason some front cab bolts are welded and others not. I've seen 67 Fremont trucks welded and late 72 Fremont trucks not welded and everything in between both ways??
It must've been their welding internship program and only the summer builds got the spot weld
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:45 PM   #43
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

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It must've been their welding internship program and only the summer builds got the spot weld
Funny. Whatever it was it wasn't standard across all the years or assembly plants. I suspect it was done to cut out one guy holding a big socket inside the cab while the bottom nut was tightened.

Just something we will never know....the foremen in charge of the lines are now all long gone I suspect.
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:05 AM   #44
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Re: Remove Front Cab Bolts

Thanks to all for the responses. Sorry I haven't be on line, but last week my wife had heart surgery and there were some complications. We are past that now and she is doing better. This weekend the plan is to get this thing up on a lift and see exactly what is going on. I'll start a new thread on this when I start. Still hoping it is the frame, but never know... One step at a time...
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