Paint gun for my compressor size

[72HuggerK20]

Now I'm not sure what MARTINSR will have to say about this, but I honestly believe that bc/cc is easier to shoot than single stage.

My reasoning for this is that you have a chance to fix mistakes before it's too late. Say if you are to get a run or a few dirt nibs in basecoat, you have some time to fix them before you clear the panel. Plus, if you do have to fix something in basecoat, you just need to blend a little more base over the repair spot and you'll never be able to tell it happened...unless you're messing with really heavy metallics or pearls.

In clearcoat, you have the chance to fix dirt nibs and runs without re-painting the entire panel.

Even professionals make mistakes. It's how good you are at fixing the mistakes you do make and minimizing them as well as you can that makes you a better painter.

Base/clear is a little more expensive up front, but because you're using two separate materials for color and gloss, you'll find it's much easier to use. You only have to worry about coverage when shooting basecoat. It doesn't need to be laid down super flat or anything. Clearcoat, you don't need to worry about even color distribution or metallic flop or anything like that. You only have to worry about laying down a nice even coat with minimal orange peel.

Clearcoat is also much easier to sand and buff because you will run less of a risk of cutting through. If you have a metallic color, you can't buff it in single stage since you'll be cutting into the tops of the metallic pieces. In bc/cc, they're protected by clear.

Not trying to steer you away from single stage, because I don't care what you choose. It's your project. I'm just giving a little information from my experiences in the past. I personally wouldn't do anything but bc/cc on a vehicle ever in the future. It's just that much easier.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

Now I'm not sure what MARTINSR will have to say about this, but I honestly believe that bc/cc is easier to shoot than single stage.

My reasoning for this is that you have a chance to fix mistakes before it's too late. Say if you are to get a run or a few dirt nibs in basecoat, you have some time to fix them before you clear the panel. Plus, if you do have to fix something in basecoat, you just need to blend a little more base over the repair spot and you'll never be able to tell it happened...unless you're messing with really heavy metallics or pearls.

In clearcoat, you have the chance to fix dirt nibs and runs without re-painting the entire panel.

Even professionals make mistakes. It's how good you are at fixing the mistakes you do make and minimizing them as well as you can that makes you a better painter.

Base/clear is a little more expensive up front, but because you're using two separate materials for color and gloss, you'll find it's much easier to use. You only have to worry about coverage when shooting basecoat. It doesn't need to be laid down super flat or anything. Clearcoat, you don't need to worry about even color distribution or metallic flop or anything like that. You only have to worry about laying down a nice even coat with minimal orange peel.

Clearcoat is also much easier to sand and buff because you will run less of a risk of cutting through. If you have a metallic color, you can't buff it in single stage since you'll be cutting into the tops of the metallic pieces. In bc/cc, they're protected by clear.

Not trying to steer you away from single stage, because I don't care what you choose. It's your project. I'm just giving a little information from my experiences in the past. I personally wouldn't do anything but bc/cc on a vehicle ever in the future. It's just that much easier.

You are absolutely correct. Everything you said is spot on. BC/CC is like sitting on the couch with a beer compared to the pressure of applying three coats perfect with a SS.

Brian

[Harleymike]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

Now I'm not sure what MARTINSR will have to say about this, but I honestly believe that bc/cc is easier to shoot than single stage.

My reasoning for this is that you have a chance to fix mistakes before it's too late. Say if you are to get a run or a few dirt nibs in basecoat, you have some time to fix them before you clear the panel. Plus, if you do have to fix something in basecoat, you just need to blend a little more base over the repair spot and you'll never be able to tell it happened...unless you're messing with really heavy metallics or pearls.

In clearcoat, you have the chance to fix dirt nibs and runs without re-painting the entire panel.

Even professionals make mistakes. It's how good you are at fixing the mistakes you do make and minimizing them as well as you can that makes you a better painter.

Base/clear is a little more expensive up front, but because you're using two separate materials for color and gloss, you'll find it's much easier to use. You only have to worry about coverage when shooting basecoat. It doesn't need to be laid down super flat or anything. Clearcoat, you don't need to worry about even color distribution or metallic flop or anything like that. You only have to worry about laying down a nice even coat with minimal orange peel.

Clearcoat is also much easier to sand and buff because you will run less of a risk of cutting through. If you have a metallic color, you can't buff it in single stage since you'll be cutting into the tops of the metallic pieces. In bc/cc, they're protected by clear.

Not trying to steer you away from single stage, because I don't care what you choose. It's your project. I'm just giving a little information from my experiences in the past. I personally wouldn't do anything but bc/cc on a vehicle ever in the future. It's just that much easier.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the input. I see what your saying about the BC/CC.Makes sense to me. And Im sure there will be mistakes.
Hoping to let my son spray some of it also. The base clear is looking more positive as I learn about this more and more.

I'll keep searching. I should be spraying the inside of the cab first. Hopefully late winter.

[andreas_kc]

I'm no paint/body expert. The last few months have been my first painting experiences. I am using the cheaper Eastwood gun you are looking at. I've been happy with it and also have a small 2.5hp compressor.

The gun DOES get shipped to you in a pretty dirty state. They paint it black and there is a bunch of left over black mess in the internals of the gun. It's not to difficult to clean out, but you must make sure you do.

Here are some pics of things I've painted recently with the Eastwood LT gun...



You can see what the pattern looks like.... I don't have much experience, but I'd think it could be on the smaller size than other guns... This is using a 1.5 tip with an epoxy primer.



The paint booth had a pretty good compressor system, so it wasn't too big a deal. At home, doing a door here or parts there is no big deal. With a 2.5hp, 30gal tank, it would kick on once per coat on a door.

[andreas_kc]

On paints, I've been using SPI which is pretty competitive price wise. Again don't know much but it seems to be pretty quality paint. They have a pretty limited base color selection, but have everything else. Plus you can use a different urethane base no problem at all. The door above was all SPI with a Nason brand base.

Only real reference I have is using Nason paint which is similarly priced. I seemed to need 1-2 more coats for anything in the Nason paint system vs the SPI stuff would cover in less coats.

The only gripe I have which maybe is normal was the epoxy primer does not cure under 65 degrees which makes it so I can't paint in my garage/carport now that the weather is colder.... and it is why I had to drag my stuff to a paint booth to get it epoxied.

[dwcsr]

you may want to look at the new 3m modular gun

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01497MZB6...748420_TE_item

watch the videos at the bottom of the link page

We just got one and it works off 13 cfm at 20 psi. We got it because we don't paint we only prime and not often, The gun would get blocked and unusable between jobs if it wasn't cleaned properly.. This 3m gun solved that problem.

Everything is replaceable except the spray handle. you mix in the cup, the lid has a filter in ot so you just pop it on the gun and spray. if you don't want to clean it just toss the parts away and start over on the next job or color

[Harleymike]

Hey guys. I ended up getting the Eastwood Concours gun.

gun.http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-con...h-1-2-tip.html

Ordered a 1.4 tip for it also. I will post some reviews and pics once I get a chance to use it. Thanks for all the tips and help.
I bought a couple cheap Harbour Freight guns also for primers and other paints. They were only 15 bucks so figured why not.