What I Did Today....

[Restrorob]

Well, I was off today and decided since it was nice out I'd tackle a job I've put off for over a year.

When I installed the 94 TBI tank and pump assembly over year ago the 0 to 95 ohm gauge rheostat wouldn't operate my NEW MPI 97 40 to 270 ohm gauge cluster the stealership installed THINKING that would solve my non-working speedo....NOT !

So, My bung-hole gets the pucker factor every time I go on a 2+ hr cruise to shows (remote areas) not knowing how much gas this thing is suck'n down.

I bought a 2 1/6" 0 to 95 ohm fuel gauge from Summit last year and tore this site and the net apart hunting for mounting brackets/ideas, I spent many hours sitting in the seat with gauge in hand pondering where I could put it.

I didn't want a extra gauge plastered on my nice clean dash or pillar so this is what I finally ended up with;




Now ya see it....




Now ya don't....




Naaa.....I didn't hurt the original ashtray, I picked up another from the local J-Y.

Maybe this coming weekend I'll finish painting the sport mirrors I bought from JWall first of last year and get them on, Oh....My e fan upgrade will have to wait two more weeks till after the first show of the year, As you can see I don't like being rushed !

[corbinc]

Extremely clean! Is the gauge velcro'd on, screwed?

[Restrorob]

Neither,

This is the cheapo gauge I bought; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-301107/


I first removed the tray from the outer face plate, Then ground the cig holding ribs smooth with my dremel and sat the gauge in the tray but it sat up out of the top a little. I eyeballed where the back of the gauge hit the upper part of the tray and used a 3" cut-off blade I had worn down to about 2" in my dremel and lowered it down to the area the gauge hit, This ground a relief area for the gauge to drop down flush. It also gave the back of the gauge a flat area to rest on.

There's no room in the tray to use the light (I don't drive this rig after dark anyway) or wire connectors on the gauge, I plugged the light hole and soldered 16 ga wires long enough to reach the fuse panel to the terminals then wrapped them with electrical tape.

I then drilled two holes about 1/2" apart in the tray where the finger relief area is for the outer face plate, Also one in the back of the tray next to where the spring clip slides in (the mold dimple closest the driver) to run the wires through.

After calibrating the gauge I wrapped the housing with electrical tape to cover the white, Ran a black wire tie wrap from the inside of the tray through one drilled hole then back into the tray through the other hole, Then installed the gauge aligning it center and pulled the tie wrap tight with needle nosed pliers (make sure the wires aren't under the tie wrap). Run the wires through the whole in the back of the tray then re-install the front face plate.

Now, Look up into the dash where the tray assembly goes. You'll see a rectangle hole in the upper center for the spring clip to slide into, I used my dremel bit and opened the hole to the left and down as below. This gives the wire ample space to move out and in when opened and closed.




If there's ever a wham bam thank ya ma'm way of doing something I'll be the last to find it....

[Unkle Fester]

That is very cool. I'll have to keep that in mind for future add ons.

[jb1016]

That is trick. Very nice.