Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

[TR65]

Hey guys,

Here is one way to add a hydraulic clutch master cylinder to a 65C10.

TR

[TR65]

Here are the last two pics.

TR

[BobS]

Nice setup!

Bob

[Anthony Fremont]

Excellent job dude. Where'd you get those pressure gauges? What is the range?

[TR65]

Anthony,

The gages and adjustable proportioning valve are from SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corp). The range is 0-2000psi. I want to see the split between front and rear brake pressure (4 wheel disc). I set it at one number for unloaded so both axles lock up at the same time, less split for loaded. Oh, and I like gages.

TR

[TP from Cntl PA]

Interesting.............Would like an update on how it works!

[Anthony Fremont]

Cool, looks trick to me, but then I like gauges too. Did you have to flare the end of those lines, or are those compression fittings? Sorry, I'm nosy like that. :-)

[TR65]

Anthony,

The lines use inverted flare fittings.

TR

[kevindtimm]

I'm wondering how that would work out for the 62 trucks (so that I wouldn't have to spend $500 on a dual MC for power brakes and my clutch)

Do you have sourcing, part numbers, pricing, etc. on these pieces?

Very nice BTW, very very nice.

[TR65]

Kevin,

The Wilwood master cylinder is 260-3374 Summit Racing $66.88 shown in the picture.

The heim joint is 6072K165 5/16dia. 5/16-24 thread RH 3200# capacity $5.47 McMaster Carr

The shoulder bolt is 91259A578 5/16dia. 1/2" long, 1/4-20 thread $1.09 McMaster Carr

That was all there was to buy except the bar stock, bolts and nuts, and of course the hydraulic line to the slave.

Pretty inexpensive solution.

TR

[qksilver]

No problems with the firewall flexing?

[Yukon Jack]

How does the slave mount? Very nice install. I'm using a 1989 1 ton's hydraulic clutch setup on my 69 K20.

How does the effort needed to work the clutch compare with the stock setup? A boardmember with a bad knee was asking about that issue so this will be informative to him.

[kevindtimm]

TR, thanks very much. That is some very nice work.

[TR65]

Thanks for the kind comments men.

Jack,

I haven't actually installed the transmission yet, just getting ready while keeping the truck on the road. I expect clutch effort to be pretty light since it should be the same or less than a current Vette, GTO manual clutch and the clutch pedal is a little longer on the truck.

The slave is a current stock T56 center pull mounted in the bell housing around the main shaft.

Quicksilver,

The firewall is quite rigid in that area due to the re-inforcing channel to the right and the contour to the left. No visible flexing.

TR

[Captainfab]

Very nicely done TR65

[79gmcsierragrande]

Thanks for that. I'm looking to put a NV4500 in my 79 sierra, I'll have to save this post for when I'm ready.

[joe231]

very nice write up as usual TR!!

[TR65]

Well guys, I finally got my new engine and transmission installed so I can update this thread.

The slave cylinder is a center pull late model (2005) with no bleed screw. I used my one man brake bleeder attached to the bleed screw on the master cylinder. I am using silicone fluid. All I had to do was the pump the clutch pedal for a few minutes until all the bubbles stopped coming out, done.

Since the master cylinder mounts level no bench bleeding was necessary.

Tip. The actuator rod should line up level with the master cylinder at the bottom of the stroke, not the top as in the above picture. So when it was pushed in all the way it was rubbing. So I had to elongate the hole in the pedal to fix that.

The pedal effort is fairly high, pretty much like the mechanical clutch that was in the truck. You could use a smaller bore master cylinder to reduce the effort if you wanted.

It will be a couple of months before I get the engine running so I can see how the release feels.

TR

[dan468]

Originally Posted by TR65

Well guys, I finally got my new engine and transmission installed so I can update this thread.

The slave cylinder is a center pull late model (2005) with no bleed screw. I used my one man brake bleeder attached to the bleed screw on the master cylinder. I am using silicone fluid. All I had to do was the pump the clutch pedal for a few minutes until all the bubbles stopped coming out, done.

Since the master cylinder mounts level no bench bleeding was necessary.

Tip. The actuator rod should line up level with the master cylinder at the bottom of the stroke, not the top as in the above picture. So when it was pushed in all the way it was rubbing. So I had to elongate the hole in the pedal to fix that.

The pedal effort is fairly high, pretty much like the mechanical clutch that was in the truck. You could use a smaller bore master cylinder to reduce the effort if you wanted.

It will be a couple of months before I get the engine running so I can see how the release feels.

TR

what keeps the bolt in place with the elongated hole now? Can't it move around in such a big hole? Why did you choose to make a new hole in the first place? Wouldn't the factory hole give you the precise original throw?

thanks for the help, just got a T 56

- Dan

[zammer]

This may seem like a goofy question but how/where do you get a slave cylinder on which you mount to the actual clutch?
(from what i have tried to read up on was the slave cylinder is called a hydraulic throwout bearing? ) Is that what the slave is??

I see you wrote you got a slave from an 2005 model something... some pics of that setup would be great as I would really like to put a hydraulic clutch on my older muncie transission...

thanks!

[sdailey]

Originally Posted by zammer

This may seem like a goofy question but how/where do you get a slave cylinder on which you mount to the actual clutch?
(from what i have tried to read up on was the slave cylinder is called a hydraulic throwout bearing? ) Is that what the slave is??

I see you wrote you got a slave from an 2005 model something... some pics of that setup would be great as I would really like to put a hydraulic clutch on my older muncie transission...

thanks!

I installed a hydraulic slave cylinder on SM465 4spd. There's a company called Novak that makes the kit.

Here's a link for the kit I'm using.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm


Here are a few pictures of what it looks like installed.





I hope this helps.

[Winola73]

Well written and good pics, glad you brought that BTT, I'll be doing a '66 this Spring. Thanks!

[Critter]

This is backing up a little bit, but I searched in Summit's website for your master cylinder part number 260-3374 and it brought up this, summit calls it a brake master cylinder.

And when serching summit for clutch master cylinders, I found this McLeod Kit for about twice the price. I'm confused?!?!? Are they the same kit and just because one is labeled as a clutch master cylinder it is considerably more??? Am I an idiot and missed something. Sorry to jump in the middle of your thread like this but I would hate to pay double for something if I don't need to.

[Captainfab]

I believe Wilwood just calls them brake masters since that is the most common use for them. They will work fine as a clutch master cylinder. This is the one that I sell with my power brake conversion for the '60-'62's. It's a little cheaper as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-1304/


Judging by the pic, that Mcleod unit is the same as the Wilwood one.....just a lot more $$

Originally Posted by Critter

This is backing up a little bit, but I searched in Summit's website for your master cylinder part number 260-3374 and it brought up this, summit calls it a brake master cylinder.

And when serching summit for brake master cylinders, I found this McLeod Kit for about twice the price. I'm confused?!?!? Are they the same kit and just because one is labeled as a clutch master cylinder it is considerably more??? Am I an idiot and missed something. Sorry to jump in the middle of your thread like this but I would hate to pay double for something if I don't need to.

[TR65]

What CaptainFab says is correct. What I used is called a brake master cylinder by Willwood.

TR