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Old 05-10-2018, 12:32 PM   #26
Lost81c10
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr View Post
Assembly Line Diagnostic Link or ALDL is a proprietary on-board diagnostics system developed by General Motors prior to the standardization of OBD-2.

This is the underdash plug for the OBD system. you will need this.
I see. ok, I do have this ALDL and the 3 or 4 wires that come out of it. I cut these off at the area where they meet the big wiring harness going to the engine. I hope that was ok but if I need the entire length I guess I can find and pull the cut wires at the engine bay side where they come out from the cabin.

I have seen videos for this but I am sure I will have more questions when I come to this point.
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:53 PM   #27
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Following closely...just replied to the other thread. This is helpful.
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:24 PM   #28
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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By the way, what else besides the wires going to the mirror do I need to make it work like you did in your truck? do I need the little red looking light from the middle of the dash close to the windshield? I have it and the wires that were going to it but don't know if I need it at all as part of the mirror.

for cruise control, I did want to adapt it but from what I had read I thought it was impossible for a DBC body. so where is the module for it? is it this box in the pic? if it is I will remove it along with the cable to the TB and the wire connection which seems to be going into the cab, so just cut the wires close to the grommet or trace them all the way to the inside?

looking at the pic reminded me that I wanted to keep the hood light too.
All you need for the mirror to work is the wiring harness and the temp sensor located under the hood latch in front of the A/C condenser. The thing in the dash is for the automatic headlights, you don't need it.

Yes, that pic is the cruise control. Just take it and as much wire as you can get, then to hook it up, just use this thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511477

The ALDL connector just hooks up to power and ground and one wire to the PCM, so you can just add the wires to make it long enough.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:07 PM   #29
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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All you need for the mirror to work is the wiring harness and the temp sensor located under the hood latch in front of the A/C condenser. The thing in the dash is for the automatic headlights, you don't need it.

Yes, that pic is the cruise control. Just take it and as much wire as you can get, then to hook it up, just use this thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511477

The ALDL connector just hooks up to power and ground and one wire to the PCM, so you can just add the wires to make it long enough.

So this is the plug the I had found under by the condenser, is this the one I need or is it a different?
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:57 PM   #30
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

No, that looks like an airbag sensor. The one you want is gray with a green connector.
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Old 05-12-2018, 01:08 AM   #31
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

ls1nova, did you work in a dealership, the only people I see still using ALDL are old techs that worked GM in the 90s.

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Old 05-12-2018, 12:58 PM   #32
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

anything yellow plastic, yes is airbag related. That connector/sensor you show is the 'crash sensor' that mounts couple places up front and signals to the main module to set off airbags in event of a impact.
yellow is reserved for safety related connectors, on all makes fyi


Thanks for the pics, that is what I needed BTW
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:26 PM   #33
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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ls1nova, did you work in a dealership, the only people I see still using ALDL are old techs that worked GM in the 90s.
I guess that is an old name for it! No I didnt work in a dealership, but you're right, that was the name of it back in the 90's when I started doing TPI swaps, and I guess the name just stuck in my brain!
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:27 PM   #34
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

To the OP, the temp sensor for the mirror looks like this.
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:53 PM   #35
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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To the OP, the temp sensor for the mirror looks like this.
Thanks. I just found it. Glad I didn't butchered any of that front stuff. So I am going to trace the wires as I can see they go all the way into the green block for the front light harness and pull them. Once I get ready for install I am sure I will have questions. Thanks again.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #36
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Are there any wires that I need to find/trace from the engine wire harness to the Fuel pump/Tank? I have not seen or have not been able to locate any so I wanted to make sure. I will be pulling the engine out tomorrow but didn't want to get caught in the middle because wires are still attached to that. I see that that this harness goes straight to the back on the driver side and I am thinking that this is where the pump might be connected to but none of these wires are tied to the engine harness. I was assuming that the pump harness would be part of the engine harness but maybe totally wrong. thanks.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:50 PM   #37
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Do you think I need a transmission rebuild, lol? here is the magnet in the trans pan.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:52 PM   #38
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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Do you think I need a transmission rebuild, lol? here is the magnet in the trans pan.
I wasn't having any issues that I could tell. it was shifting fine. all shift were always on point.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:05 PM   #39
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

So which hole is the best one to use from each head to attach the chains to lift the engine and which bolts do I use. I don't want to damage heads or bolts that I will be needing again.

If there are better spots please let me know. the plan is for Engine and Trans to come out together.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:41 PM   #40
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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So which hole is the best one to use from each head to attach the chains to lift the engine and which bolts do I use. I don't want to damage heads or bolts that I will be needing again.

If there are better spots please let me know. the plan is for Engine and Trans to come out together.
I used the left most bolt in your picture and it worked fine with the engine and trans together. I'm pretty sure any of those would work. Just a choice on how the chain will lay when installed. I just found a bolt out of the many I had removed in getting that far that fit.

On the opposite corner was a black lifting bracket that didn't have any holes but had a wedge-shaped piece that I wrapped the chain around and put a bolt through the links.
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:44 PM   #41
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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Are there any wires that I need to find/trace from the engine wire harness to the Fuel pump/Tank? I have not seen or have not been able to locate any so I wanted to make sure. I will be pulling the engine out tomorrow but didn't want to get caught in the middle because wires are still attached to that. I see that that this harness goes straight to the back on the driver side and I am thinking that this is where the pump might be connected to but none of these wires are tied to the engine harness. I was assuming that the pump harness would be part of the engine harness but maybe totally wrong. thanks.
The wires that run to the fuel pump are in one of the harnesses that bolt to the underside of the big under hood fuse box. You've probably already unhooked them.

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Do you think I need a transmission rebuild, lol? here is the magnet in the trans pan.
That looks perfectly normal to me, and the fluid around it looks nice and red. I would change the filter and run it, especially if you say it was shifting fine.
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:06 PM   #42
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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The wires that run to the fuel pump are in one of the harnesses that bolt to the underside of the big under hood fuse box. You've probably already unhooked them.



That looks perfectly normal to me, and the fluid around it looks nice and red. I would change the filter and run it, especially if you say it was shifting fine.
Oh ok. I will trace the only harness left that went to the fuse block which is the one that goes under the truck on the driver side. I have to drop the tank anyway as it is required to be able to take it to the scrap yard. I have to empty it out.

Well that is great news on the trans then. I was really thinking it was not a good sign seeing all the stuff on there and had already called shops about a rebuild. So I will run it as is and just replace the filter. Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:14 AM   #43
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

yes I 2nd the trans...that is normal accumulation of fine metallic on the magnet.
clean pan, filter, fresh dex VI, good to go.

for pulling, I usually use the upper most, inner bolts...so that the chain doesn't damage the valve covers.
it doesn't look like a whole lot of aluminum there around the bolt holes...but they are plenty strong. I use the bolts like you have there, if they are threaded in with engaged thread of ~ 1" should be fine.
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:43 PM   #44
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Well they are finally out and it feels good. now the fun begins, and all the questions.

I ended up going to lowes and getting some bolts to use instead of using the originals. I just didn't want to damaged any of them.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:01 PM   #45
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

This was one of the casualties. I don't even know what it is. So what do I need to be looking for and is it expensive?
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:38 PM   #46
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Some more questions before the donor goes to crap metal:

Do I need the donor Throttle cable or will I be using my 85 cable?

what about the transmission shifting cable or any part of it from the donor, do I need to keep to use?

do I need to keep any part of the exhaust after the Y?

This last one is just something that I just thought about looking at the donor engine bay, what about brake master and booster, are any of these two of any use/benefit and easily adaptable to the truck?

thanks.
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:09 PM   #47
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

Can't answer any of your questions exactly. Mine is DBW. I'd save it just in case. I also went to some trouble to get the entire transmission shift cable which required dash dissassembly to get to the back of the column to disconnect it. I'll be replacing the column so not sure how it will work out.

I tossed the whole exhaust. The muffler was the size of a VW bug.

I also upgraded the brakes on mine already. I assume the booster and master could be made to work or was of some value to somebody else.

I probably kept too much. I still have a pile of parts I'm trying to sell....
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:19 PM   #48
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

well i have some concerns from what i see with regards to the head and maybe the engine.

my plan was to just swap the engine and not do any major work but from what you all see, do you think i will need major work on the engine or maybe the heads.

here are some pic of the intake and exhaust valves two from each side as you can see one of the intake valve has oil on top of it.

please let me know what you think. thanks.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:47 PM   #49
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

It's got 155k on it, it isn't going to look brand new. Since it was your Suburban, you should know better than anyone how well it ran. If it ran good then put it in and go with it, then if you have an issue down the road, take care of it then, but worrying about every little detail will most likely cost you more and could lead to you getting burned out on the project.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:37 PM   #50
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Re: 85 C10 "Rob Peter to Pay Paul" 5.3 Swap

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It's got 155k on it, it isn't going to look brand new. Since it was your Suburban, you should know better than anyone how well it ran. If it ran good then put it in and go with it, then if you have an issue down the road, take care of it then, but worrying about every little detail will most likely cost you more and could lead to you getting burned out on the project.
No you're exactly right on all that.

I guess more than anything I wanted to get a feel for what all that shows meant and if it were obvious sings hat it was bout done. I am hoping that I can get another 50k out of it just the way it looks in there before anything is needed.

Now that was or better yet, it is still the plan and for exactly the same reason you mention, I don't want to dump a lot of money in it only to get burned out before it is done. I have seen lots of high build threads that just went cold.

As far as the engine, its true, it was running good and no noticeable issues other then the codes for knock sensors. So we'll continue plowing ahead.

thanks a lot.
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