69 c10 no spark new distributor.

[marco69c10]

so i bought a 69 c10 with a 350 and HEI. It was running great and then i let it sit for a day and a half and after that it didnt start. im not getting spark at all. I replaced the distributor and still nothing. there is voltage going to the coil. idk what else to do. can anyone help out?

[jr1966]

Probably ignition module. I just had same problem.

[marco69c10]

Originally Posted by jr1966

Probably ignition module. I just had same problem.

I replaced that and still nothing

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by marco69c10

I replaced that and still nothing

Try running a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the BAT terminal on the distributor and make sure the distributor is grounded to the manifold.

This will isolate the distributor from the ignition system in case there is a wiring problem in that.

If you have a tach connected, disconnect it at the distributor.
Make sure the rotor button is turning.

[marco69c10]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Try running a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the BAT terminal on the distributor and make sure the distributor is grounded to the manifold.

This will isolate the distributor from the ignition system in case there is a wiring problem in that.

If you have a tach connected, disconnect it at the distributor.
Make sure the rotor button is turning.

What do you mean grounded to the manifold? Are u saying run the ground from the distributor to the manifold?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by marco69c10

What do you mean grounded to the manifold? Are u saying run the ground from the distributor to the manifold?

The distributor has to be grounded to the engine block to complete the circuit for the current to get back to the battery. It would be pretty rare for it not to be, because it goes through the intake manifold and meshes with the cam gear, and the distributor hold down is bolted to the block. The distributor base sits on a gasket and if the manifold has a lot of paint on it, it might insulate the hold down clamp. Just use a light or continuity meter, and check between the distributor body and the engine block to a bare spot, for zero ohms to rule that out.

Did you run the jumper yet?

[Dead Parrot]

From your original post, you are on the 2nd HEI distributor, since you said you replaced the distributor. Was the 2nd one known to be good or just one that 'was laying around?'

What is the voltage to the distributor? HEI wants a full 12V. No resistor wire or ballast resistor. Possible a PO missed that when they swapped out the points setup.

[marco69c10]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

From your original post, you are on the 2nd HEI distributor, since you said you replaced the distributor. Was the 2nd one known to be good or just one that 'was laying around?'

What is the voltage to the distributor? HEI wants a full 12V. No resistor wire or ballast resistor. Possible a PO missed that when they swapped out the points setup.

Yes the second distributor was brand new. Voltage to the distributor is 12v but drops to 7-9v while cranking. But the starter is bad because it cranks very slow then fast then slow again. Maybe it's drawing too much power?

[VetteVet]

If you don't mind pulling the distributor you can check it for spark by connecting the Bat terminal to the battery positive and the distributor body to the negative terminal. With the plug wires off the distributor will spark when you spin it by hand.

[Dead Parrot]

You could do VetteVet's test on the original distributor since it is already out. If it passes, you might have a low/zero volt during starting problem. While it is out, check the button in the top of the cap. When those fail, it can cause a no spark problem.

7-9v during cranking seems about right.

Starter brushes may be near end of life.

Double check battery cable quality. They can rot from the inside. Looks fine but no guts.