Looking for Body Tool Suggestions

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Sort of a quick question for all the body guys or others that have tackled body repair on their trucks. Read through pages and pages in the body forum on here, but I couldnt find a specific thread on basic tools to start with. I have been procrastinating way to long to start work on my truck. I am looking for a decent grinder suggestion. Corded, since I will be working in my garage and dont need another set of batteries and chargers clogging up my already limited work bench space. I have looked at Dewalt, Milwaukee and a few others. There are dozens of versions of almost each one. I dont need top of the line, since I only am planning to do this as a project and not for a living. There are 4.5 up to 7in grinders with varying amp ratings. I am looking for something that versitale enough to cut out patch panels, grind down some paint and welds. And the usual messy work.

Also any recommendations on cutting discs( thickness and diameter). Also grinding or flap discs you have used and have had good luck with.

Appreciate any info. Thanks.

Drew

ps. Im working on my '52 3100.

[MiraclePieCo]

4-1/2" angle grinder is the most used tool in my shop. I use it for cutting, grinding and sanding. Tool snobs won't believe this, but my grinder came from Harbor Freight over 20 years ago and has been used extensively for frame-up builds of four complete hot rods. I had to replace the brushes once.

I prefer the paddle-switch units for the most deft action.

Cutting discs: Get the thin ones, .040 or thereabouts - smaller kerf means quicker cutting and smaller weld gaps. I order them in bulk on Ebay, since I can go through several an hour when I'm cutting out frame sections: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-5-x-0...item3d20115ea7

And wear your safety gear, lol!

[mongocanfly]

I used to have a assortment of grinders but mine are all dewalt now..I have 4-1/2,5&7 in ....
the big grinder is not what you'll need for what your gonna be doing...go with the smaller ones...quality discs usually pay for themselves in the long run....I use 3m when available...if your gonna be cutting sheetmetal get a Lennox metalmax....it'll out last abrasive discs by a mile..it's not as great on thick metal...
I've used flap discs from many different companys...3m brand last the best..
On abrasive cutting disc I use 3m cubitron 2
For small grinding applications look into the 3m rollock system for the small air grinders...they come in various diameters,grits,surfaces,,, and you can quickly swap the pads out...
On the grinder you chose the higher the amp the better it is..my go to is my 5in 13amp dewalt..
And wear your gear...

[mr48chev]

I'd agree that the 4-1/2 inch angle grinder is a must have. I have 4 brands of them out in the garage but use the HF (better quality one) and the three Black and Decker ones that ACE had on sale a couple of years ago all the time.. I bought three because one has a grind disk, one has a flap wheel and the other uses cut disks.

I'm going to argue on the cut disk thickness. It is those thin ones that always tend to break and throw pieces across the room a lot more often than thicker ones. I used to buy cut disks by the case when i was buying parts and maintenance supplies for the maintenance department of a big fruit juice and applesauce plant 25 years ago and we had a lot of trouble with the thin disks but cut that way down after only buying the thicker ones. One thing is always change the disk if if you drop the grinder with the disk or drop something on it. I have come to believe that most of the disk explosions come due to rough handling when you aren't cutting with them.

NEVER remove the guard from an angle grinder no matter how tempted you are or what ever your reasoning. I've know old timers who swear that the guards are unsafe but you can bet that gent with the disk stuck in his face didn't have a guard on the grinder nor did he have a full face shield.

Other than that I'd say what ever brand or price range you pick depends on what you are willing to spend. I have about every brand of small power tools you can imagine but many came from estate sales or yard sales or swap meets used. My Dewalt drill came from Habit for humanity's store when some contractor dropped off about 25 identical drills in the cases. Mine had had very little use. Some law requires that they use "new" power tools on certain Government contract construction jobs at least here in the state.

[DPete]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

4-1/2" angle grinder is the most used tool in my shop. I use it for cutting, grinding and sanding. Tool snobs won't believe this, but my grinder came from Harbor Freight over 20 years ago and has been used extensively for frame-up builds of four complete hot rods. I had to replace the brushes once.

I prefer the paddle-switch units for the most deft action.

Cutting discs: Get the thin ones, .040 or thereabouts - smaller kerf means quicker cutting and smaller weld gaps. I order them in bulk on Ebay, since I can go through several an hour when I'm cutting out frame sections: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-5-x-0...item3d20115ea7

And wear your safety gear, lol!

That could leave a mark

[_Ogre]

i have 3 cheap 4.5" grinders in the shop: cutoff, flap and grinding. don't think i paid $20 for any of them
i use 6" sait cutoff disks with some hf 4.5" disks, never had one break on me unless i dropped it
broken disks are usually from misuse: dropped, forced or using the side.
i pull the grinder out of the box and throw the rest away: box, wrench, handle and guard
like any power tool, if you disrespect it, it will bite you

[vintovka]

I needed to cut 2 14" turbine vent holes in the thick steel roof of a 40' container. (Was getting too hot for my tractor or me in there). It took one HF $9.99 grinder per hole. Right as i was finishing each hole they went up in a cloud of sparks and smoke and a hardy HI-HO Silver and got tossed

[b-mac]

It's hard to complain about the Harbor Freight tools if you have one close. I'm surprised by some of the super short or super long lasting stories.

I figure, for less than $30, I can have a couple grinders (cut-off disk and Flap-wheel) and abuse them a little, and not feel bad when they need to be replaced.

I have a Harbor Freight Sawzall have I have had for years, and used for literally hours. I had it jerry-rigged to the legs of my HF pot blaster (don't buy one of those...junk) to shake the sand while I was blasting my cab. It ran non-stop for what felt like days.
If finally failed me...not the motor, but the blade lock.



Also, lately I've been using a pneumatic (could use electric) cut off tool, to cut down the majority of my welds, before finishing them with a flap disc...typically on a roloc disc as suggested above.
The thin profile of the cut off tool blade minimized the heat applied to the metal, preventing warping that can be caused by grinding. Just be patient, and don't apply too much pressure to the side of the blade...or end up like the guy above.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by b-mac

It's hard to complain about the Harbor Freight tools if you have one close. I'm surprised by some of the super short or super long lasting stories.

I figure, for less than $30, I can have a couple grinders (cut-off disk and Flap-wheel) and abuse them a little, and not feel bad when they need to be replaced.

I have a Harbor Freight Sawzall have I have had for years, and used for literally hours. I had it jerry-rigged to the legs of my HF pot blaster (don't buy one of those...junk) to shake the sand while I was blasting my cab. It ran non-stop for what felt like days.
If finally failed me...not the motor, but the blade lock.



Also, lately I've been using a pneumatic (could use electric) cut off tool, to cut down the majority of my welds, before finishing them with a flap disc...typically on a roloc disc as suggested above.
The thin profile of the cut off tool blade minimized the heat applied to the metal, preventing warping that can be caused by grinding. Just be patient, and don't apply too much pressure to the side of the blade...or end up like the guy above.

I have had both, that's for sure! How about my staple gun I used to do my convertible top on my Gran Sport, good ones go for hundreds, an upholsterer suggested the Harbor Freight and it's been AWESOME for like $20!

Then there was my torch hoses that broke in half as I turned the nut onto m torch regulator. LOL Never even used it a single time!

Brian

[joedoh]

if you want the only grinder you will ever buy in your life, get a metabo. the soft start is nice, the keyless tool change is super fast, it has computer controlled torque and just loafs till you really lean into it, it has a spindle clutch so it doesnt just keep pulling your shirt into it. they are pricey, but I have really put the hell to mine in the last 10 years and it just goes and goes. everyone I loan it to buys one.

I also have a cardboard freight grinder I got back when they were blue instead of orange. its more compact so I use it where space is at a premium or when I have a friend over helping grind. you will need to double stack earplugs with ear muffs because it has a 1200HZ howl that my wife can hear at the park playground (1/3 mile away). You could buy 4 or 5 for the price of the metabo, I like having it around when I need to do two things.


for cutoff discs in the corded grinder I use forearm gloves jeans hat with a face shield and safety glasses. I have a picture saved from another forum of a guy sticking his tongue out the hole in his cheek from a bound up disc. I usually plan my cuts so that they pull apart instead of together but I have had a disc explode a few times. mostly I use a cordless/battery grinder with a cutoff disc now, the rpm is lower and when you bind it, it just STOPS, there isnt enough torque to break the disc and not enough momentum to fling it anywhere even if it did.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by b-mac

I have a Harbor Freight Sawzall have I have had for years, and used for literally hours. I had it jerry-rigged to the legs of my HF pot blaster (don't buy one of those...junk) to shake the sand while I was blasting my cab. It ran non-stop for what felt like days.

your killing me b-mac
necessity is the mother of invention and poverty is the mother of necessity - plato


anything from harbor fright that runs on electricity is a crapshoot
i've had pretty good luck with their grinders
you just can't work them too hard

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Thanks everyone for the info. Looks like a 4.5 grinder is the consensus to start with. And I will grab a small assortment of discs to see which ones work for me. The majority of the work will be sheetmetal replacement panels, all the typical spots including lower doors, floor and fenders.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

oh and on the "Freight" tools, I too have had a good and bad experiences with them over the last 20+ years as a tech. I basically refer to them as disposable tools. I also had bought an air riveter probably back in 2001. I used it almost daily doing window regulator replacements on Benz for 10 years. Other techs bought them and they lasted only months. Sometimes you get a really good one, other times it lasts for one job. But the bulk of my daily tools are higher end ones that I need to work without braking. Or at least until the next week when the tool truck shows up.

[dsraven]

I have several 4.5" grinders. a different attachment on each, thin disc, fat disc, grinder disc, wire wheel, flap disc with course, flap disc with fine, hang them on a dolly or the edge of something closeby. that way I just reach for the one I need at the time. the hard part is the cord management. what I will say is that some have a longer threaded shank so they are a pain when flush sanding or grinding is required.
the zip discs I use are whatever is on sale. no particular preference. they don't last long anyway. doesn't seem to matter what brand so I'm not loyal that way.
I have a respirator that fits under my face shield and allows the use of safety glasses. thats overkill but whatever. I have still had metal stuck to my eyeball even though face shield and glasses were used. wear coveralls and a leather apron. you can also get those sleeves that protect you from sparks etc. also wer a hat of some kind. I wear the welders beanies because they fit under any headgear you may be using. don't forget about the hearing protection as well.

[dsraven]

oh, and a good fitting set of leather gloves. tigwelding gloves are nice because they fit well. they also wear out faster. I have parts of a zip disc stuck under the skin on my hand from a small zip disc explosion. went right through a cheap set of roper gloves. your health and wellness is worth the price for a good set of safety equipment. remember that when you are spraying paint as well. get some good equipment or sub out the work, your family will thank you.

[b-mac]

I've been using these 3M gloves.

There is kevlar woven into the material.

Once I hit myself on the back of the hand with 4-1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel on it.

* I take my guards off...don't tell Mr.48 *

Good scuff to the glove. Hand and veins and arteries all good.

Highly recommend.

[vintovka]

No matter what I do I always expect to shed some blood on any project . First aid kit with all sizes of band aids, tweezers (with magnifying glass), antiseptic and a nice powerfull rare earth magnet should be SOP.

In addition to all of the above a leather apron can be helpful. I once lost control of 8" grinder and spun around leaving a nice trail across the old beer gut. Not bad but had to hide the damage until it healed due to fear of chastisement from you know who. My daughter (who was present at time) required a bribe.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by vintovka

In addition to all of the above a leather apron can be helpful. I once lost control of 8" grinder and spun around leaving a nice trail across the old beer gut. Not bad but had to hide the damage until it healed due to fear of chastisement from you know who. My daughter (who was present at time) required a bribe.

I wish my wife liked me this much.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Originally Posted by dsraven

oh, and a good fitting set of leather gloves. tigwelding gloves are nice because they fit well. they also wear out faster. I have parts of a zip disc stuck under the skin on my hand from a small zip disc explosion. went right through a cheap set of roper gloves. your health and wellness is worth the price for a good set of safety equipment. remember that when you are spraying paint as well. get some good equipment or sub out the work, your family will thank you.

Appreciate the suggestions, I still have my old welding gear(took 2 semesters of welding at an occupation center) in a duffel somewhere in the garage. So still have my leather welding half jacket and tig gloves. I only ever war tig gloves since the heavy gloves were to clumsy. I would almost blister my hands when doing over head stick welding, since the gloves were so thin.

[Shinysideup]

First, after a few builds I want to address the safety aspect. ALWAYS wear eye protection, even that 2 second cleanup grind(how I got metal in my eye) is important. Personally I refuse to use the thin cutoff wheels because when they explode you are F@#$ed. They make a metal cutter wheel for the grinder now. I bought a plasma cutter for versatility and safety.
METAL CUTOFF \/

I like these for rust/paint removal. Tried everything else,save your $.
PAINT/RUST \/

I would not recommend a 7" grinder for any job except buffing paint. Get a makita or dewalt 4.5"
Remember to enjoy your time in the garage and when tired or not fun take a break.

[dsraven]

hey shinyside,
what size are those rust/paint removal discs, do they work well for rust, like down to the metal without removing the metal?

[MD2020]

QUOTE

I like these for rust/paint removal. Tried everything else,save your $.
PAINT/RUST \/


Hey give me a link to these blue grinding pads.

I have a milwaukee for cut off wheel and a DeWalt for sanding disk, just for fab. work

x2 on the 4-1/2" grinders, cut off wheels .040

[Shinysideup]

Search paint stripping disc. 4.5"
About the cheapest cost for quality tool. Compare to $10 each at home depot.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-110mm-...kAAOSw8RZafUfX

A vid on how they work.

choose clean strip disc to paint your car easily...

[MD2020]

Awesome Thanks

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by b-mac

I've been using these 3M gloves.

There is kevlar woven into the material.

Once I hit myself on the back of the hand with 4-1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel on it.

* I take my guards off...don't tell Mr.48 *

Good scuff to the glove. Hand and veins and arteries all good.

Highly recommend.

I concur.