The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1988 - 1998 GMT400 Chevy & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-09-2018, 02:07 AM   #1
Cabnchassis
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Redwood City
Posts: 242
K2500 Front End Rebuild, Anything Else While I'm Here?

Truck is a 1992 K2500 5.7/4l80/14sf (8600lb gvwr)

I have some questions, and want to make sure I'm not missing anything while I have it this far apart.

What I'm doing/have done

Energy suspension bushing kit
MOOG Everything else (tie rods, ball joints, damper, c link, etc)
Monroe shocks (all 4)
New CV Axles (don't remember the brand)
Oil pan gasket while it was convenient (still wasn't convenient)
Rear brake rebuild
Actuator lockout until/if I ever feel like doing another posi lok installation

I'll start with the only input I have to someone doing this.

The rivets can be stuck harder than a hammer can remove. After having several rednecks apply several hammers, and drink all my beer, we decided to give up for the afternoon. Or the season...I have too many vehicles.

With a fresh head, I got all the rivets out in about 45 minutes. Cut the heads off the rivets first, obviously. Lower control arm rivets came out pretty easily with an air hammer. Uppers I drilled out. Don't use a chisel point of any sort in the air hammer. Use a flat punch just don't be a cowboy. With the drill, center your pilot holes well, and chase them out 1-2 bit sizes at a time. The steel the controls arms are made out of is no harder than the rivets, it's easy to stray with a sharp bit.

Use a bottle jack and a large socket to press the control arm bushings out. A plumbing torch will be as much heat as you need, it at all.

The other thing I wouldn't miss while doing this rebuild is the oil pan gasket. The only good way to do it, is with the engine hanging on a stand, but it wasn't bad with the diff lowered (removed top two bolts in the carrier, don't crush the oil filter housing letting it down, I almost did).

Questions:
1. Factory hub assemblies are visually sound, repack or replace? If/When replace, are the timken or MOOG assemblies actually higher quality?

2. Has anyone tried to put the rear bolt on the lower control arms the other direction? Will the nut hit the axle mating surface? I ask because I cut it off this time, and will cut it off again next time if HAS to go that direction

3. The outer grease seal on the pitman shaft is a little beat up from removing the pitman arm without a puller. My local parts store 'expert' could not find it based on my description. Anyone have any luck sourcing it? It's doesn't do much, but it looks like it needs to do it well.

4. I'll replace the rag joint, but the upper steering shaft has a U Joint, the rubber boot has been eaten by rats, it works fine. Replace immediately or just keep an eye on it?

5. The bushing kit includes the cab mounts and leaf spring bushings. Is it worth knocking those out right now?


Most importantly, did I miss anything?
__________________
1991 R3500 3+3 C+C 6.2/4l80e/14ff Fleetside Dually
1992 K2500 ECLB 5.7/4l80e/14sf(g80) 8600gvwr
1991 CR500 (95 Burb wouldn't stop catching fire )
Cabnchassis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 01:40 PM   #2
83GMCK2500
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Beaverton, OR from WA State
Posts: 1,515
Re: K2500 Front End Rebuild, Anything Else While I'm Here?

In addition to oil pan, I would put new o-rings in the filter head and take a look at the oil cooler lines, if equipped. I'd probably remove them, take them to a hydraulic shop and have them build a replacement to the rubber/flex portion and just put new o-rings on the ends that clip into fitting on block/filter adapter.

Flush the power steering fluid, if it hasn't been lately. I added a magnefine filter to the return side of my power steering line.

Regarding your questions:

1. The wheel bearings are sealed/non-greaseable.

3. Contact one of the steering box rebuilders, Redhead, AGR, etc...

4. There is a flaming river (generic available as well) universal joint that will delete the rag joint altogether, firms up steering feel quite a bit, but may transfer some vibration.

5. Yours are 26 years old now, I'd imagine the body mounts are due to be replaced.
__________________
Devin

1983 GMC High Sierra 2500, 4x4, RC/LB, 400 S.B., SM-465, NP-208, Corporate 10 bolt & 9.5" 14 bolt
1996 GMC Sierra SLE 3500 DRW, 4x4, EC/LB, Vortec 454, NV-4500, BW-4401, AAM 925 & AAM 1050
1997 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 4x4, Z71/F44, EC/SB, Vortec 350

My Introduction with my '83s History
New Daily, the '96
83GMCK2500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com