how to bring it back to life?

[Grumpy old man]

use a breaker bar and if need be add a section 3-5 foot long of pipe to extend the breaker bar and gain more leverage ,Again go get the marvel mystery oil and loosen or remove all the fan belts also while your at it s use a spray bottle and spray down the inside and outside of the carb to help loosen all the crud that has probably built up over the years . And post up a few more pictures of the valves with covers off ,the rotor and top of the engine so we can see whats going on . i wish you were closer I'd have it running in an hour save internal damage .

[57taskforce]

In the past I've used a long screw driver or small pry bay on the starter ring gear to turn it over slowly.... I get a little ancy about the breaker bar/pipe on the balancer bolt. Last thing you want to do is break the bolt off in the crank.... This is my personal preference I know plenty have success on the balancer bolt but it's cheap insurance for the 1 time it doesn't cooperate, and your stuck trying to get the bolt out of the crank.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by bigun911

Tried it with WD40 may have to go get MMO also read of people using PB Blaster, If MMO is best I will go get it and get it in the cylinders. not a breaker bar just a socket on a rachet was enough for me to get the crank pulley bolt to loosen / tighten when it hit the stopping points in both directions. Plugs are out, truck in neutral, Will pull the distributor and make sure the rotor is rotating. I can hear pistons movingnside the block when I rotate the crank.

I'm surprised you are having such a problem, engines can sit for many years and not seize. I'm assuming the hood has remained on it, it's been inside, the hood closed with the air cleaner on. Dayton, Ohio doesn't sound like it's parked next to a salty body of water and the body doesn't look very rusty.

But really, when you stop and think about it, a truck like that was parked. I'm thinking it just doesn't seize like that without a reason, and the only reason I can think of IF it was still "running" is a blown head gasket.

I doubt the valves are part of it. But not knowing really why it won't turn and to prevent damaging other parts, I'd pull the valve covers off and completely loosen the rocker arms to eliminate that possibility. If it turns out the valves are/were stuck enough to not allow the engine to move, you need to pull the heads.

With the crankshaft dampener bolt coming loose, you might have to get underneath, remove the trans inspection cover, and use a big screwdriver on the starter ring gear to get it to move counter-clockwise. Be careful how you engage the screwdriver to avoid breaking off ring gear teeth.

[bigun911]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

I'm surprised you are having such a problem, engines can sit for many years and not seize. I'm assuming the hood has remained on it, it's been inside, the hood closed with the air cleaner on. Dayton, Ohio doesn't sound like it's parked next to a salty body of water and the body doesn't look very rusty.

But really, when you stop and think about it, a truck like that was parked. I'm thinking it just doesn't seize like that without a reason, and the only reason I can think of IF it was still "running" is a blown head gasket.

I doubt the valves are part of it. But not knowing really why it won't turn and to prevent damaging other parts, I'd pull the valve covers off and completely loosen the rocker arms to eliminate that possibility. If it turns out the valves are/were stuck enough to not allow the engine to move, you need to pull the heads.

With the crankshaft dampener bolt coming loose, you might have to get underneath, remove the trans inspection cover, and use a big screwdriver on the starter ring gear to get it to move counter-clockwise. Be careful how you engage the screwdriver to avoid breaking off ring gear teeth.

Truck came out of South Carolina just south of Charlotte NC about 150 miles from the ocean. Yes it was garaged, hood down, air cleaner on. It may have blown a head gasket or something else happened to let coolant into the cylinder as the radiator is not full, however the oil level in the engine was correct and not milky. I am gonna pull valve covers this weekend and see what I see, that is if it doesn't spin this evening, I marked the balancer so I could tell if I was making progress. At very worst the motor is cooked and then I wont feel even slightly bad about swapping a little more HP into a basically virgin truck.

[Grumpy old man]

Read the spark plugs look for 1-2 that appear way cleaner or steam cleaned compared to the rest , if all the plugs show the same color you don't have a blown head gasket. If 1-2 show rust you do .

[bigun911]

All plugs looked dark and a little wet, as best I remember but I will double check this evening when I get off work.

[jjzepplin]

Anything can happen. These babies are 40 plus years old. I am 40 plus years old and found weirder things happening to me!

[57taskforce]

Id move the crank back and forth a little at a time as said above., Not try to get it thru one complete stroke. I kinda think about it like a thread tap. You gotta go forward to cut the threads a little then back to clear the shavings. Same here IMO. You move up a little to push the surface rust of the cylinders then back down to allow the oil to penetrate the rings/attempt to lube the clean part of the cylinder you created by your first movement. That's how I'd do it. Not trying to start or participate in a war...

[imjeff]

There is an inexpensive tool designed to grab the flywheel that might be handy for loosening it up. I use a crank snout socket, but you would need to pull the balancer off. Might be easier in the long run and will give you the ability to rotate either way. I don't care for using the bolt or a screwdriver for what you're doing.

[imjeff]

Oh yeah, those damper bolts do break. Ask me how I know.

[franken]

There's also a tool that bolts to the 3 crank pulley bolts; might be able to borrow it from Autozone.

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077947-prof...to-damper.html

[bigun911]

Got about another quarter out of it this afternoon. Gonna pull the valve covers tomorrow and look for valve movement and lube pivot points. I think if I keep working it I will get it, might take a week and a gollon of penetrant but I am making headway. So to date I have almost 180 degrees of crank travel.

[bigun911]

Got it loose. Screw driver on the flywheel one tooth at a time. Large blade screwdriver I had with a broken tip engaged the root of the fly wheel teeth perfectly. There are still a couple tight spots but I think spinning it by hand for a while will loosen them up.

[Grumpy old man]

Good for you! I knew you would get it , You'll be driving by this afternoon !

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by bigun911

Got it loose. Screw driver on the flywheel one tooth at a time. Large blade screwdriver I had with a broken tip engaged the root of the fly wheel teeth perfectly. There are still a couple tight spots but I think spinning it by hand for a while will loosen them up.

I'd keep lubing it a little if it still has tight spots... A little extra marvel won't hurt, just make sure you get as much out as possible before you put plugs back in it.

[jjzepplin]

I would get each cylinder one at a time to TDC and sure that both valves are closed and put air in the plug hole to attempt to get any rust or crud out. Did you pull the valve covers yet? Drain the oil yet? You don't know what is in that pan and could very well be sending watery crud through the engine as you are spinning it.