1967 Custom Sport Shop Truck

[67ChevyRedneck]

I don't drill holes, holes lead to rust, the trim rubbing flush against the paint leads to rust... and I hate rust.

Now a days, I back all my trim with 3M double sided tape. You have to take time to make sure the trim fits right and mark where you want it to go, as you only have one shot to get it right. I didn't take pics of the truck trim, but I installed it like I did on my mustang (starts at post 77):

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=526257&page=4

I always leave the bottoms open or slotted, depending on length of trim or emblem, to let any water that may ever get back there to drop out.

[bluex]

Looking good. Any new updates or you been to busy watching that fooseball still?

[67ChevyRedneck]

Man... you know better... you live right up the road... when has it stopped friggin' raining?

And it's "foolsball". Don't know if you've heard, but my old Alma Mater happens to be ranked #1!

Todays the first day we've seen the sun in weeks?

I am trying to finish up some paintwork in the house before my family gets here from NY a few days before Thanksgiving. I've finished ALL the work downstairs last week (YAY!) and trying to finish all the hall trim now (door jams, chair rail and base trim...tedious, slow work.)

See post #350 here: I did all the bulk paint work (walls, ceiling, wainscoting) but ALL the trim has to be painted still.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...366060&page=14

I did put the CST badges on.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I really don't know when I'll have time to work on it again either...

I want to try to go to Mason's show Sat morning for a couple hours, then I have to go to Charlotte for a work function that will kill the rest of Saturday and half of sunday (yay ).

I have tickets to the Wake Forest game next Saturday, then it's Thanksgiving the next weekend! I really want the top painted before my dad gets here (or at least the damn window back in!) but I don't think I can get that all done, I haven't even cleaned out the PS gutter or above the windshield yet.

[bluex]

Less fooseball, more truck time....

[oldblue1968chevy]

Truck is looking 10x better. The drop red wheels the white grille everything! Keep it up man!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Thanks man!

She's getting a garage spot back in a few months so there will be a lot more updates then.

Until then, I had fun with her at my truck clubs yearly track day last month (had to remove caps and rings to run on track). I think she did 9th out of 17 trucks (track was set up like a slalom course) , and we had some pretty fast LS powered S10s and C10's.

[Advanced Design]

Looks good on the track and I bet the slalom was a blast!

[67 fastback]

Very cool build to read through. I'm also a mustang guy Digging both your rides.

Bill

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I don't drill holes, holes lead to rust, the trim rubbing flush against the paint leads to rust... and I hate rust.

Now a days, I back all my trim with 3M double sided tape. You have to take time to make sure the trim fits right and mark where you want it to go, as you only have one shot to get it right. I didn't take pics of the truck trim, but I installed it like I did on my mustang (starts at post 77):

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=526257&page=4

I always leave the bottoms open or slotted, depending on length of trim or emblem, to let any water that may ever get back there to drop out.

I gotta say i don't like trim for the very same reasons, rain and rust. as nice as some of the higher optioned trucks look i still opt for no trim. But i like your ideas for the application and allowing for water to get out. Thanks for sharing this!

[Bubba4spd]

I'm just catching up with your build thread, really like what you have done. Especially when you painted the rally's red, you turned the corner and made it special. Now that I see it completed, I like the white front grill as well. Don't get so tied up with all the other projects we don't get a steady stream of updates.

[67ChevyRedneck]

So, I have like... done "stuff." I'm only a couple weeks away from finishing our master bath remodel and will be cleaning out the garage (kicking my rust bucket 67 firebird outside ) so I can do more work on the truck.

To start, I wasn't happy with her stance, I thought the nose was just too damn low. My driveway goes uphill, so this pic isn't exactly a good reference, but from the ground to the top of the fenders curved bump out, it was around 28-1/8". I also hated that the very top of the tire was covered up by the fender when you looked straight on.

So, I ordered a set of GM style aluminum spacers from Summit. They're 3/8" so they would roughly raise the nose +/- 5/8-3/4".

[67ChevyRedneck]

...but I only wanted the nose to go up 1/2" so I shaved them down a bit, plus, I didn't like how pointed they were and wanted a bigger contact patch.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I only did one side, just to make sure that I liked the ride height, if it was too high, I could shave more off and make the other side match.

So, I made sure that the lower spring was seated properly in the spacer and inside the lower control arm, as I've made that mistake before.

I get everything back together, get it set down, and the nose is kinda high, like 1.5" higher than I started... wtf, right? I drove it around the block and no change. Then it hit me... idiot. The upper part of the coil wasn't seated and no matter what I tried it wouldn't slip in. It was stuck on the part that comes down that it centers around.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Back apart it came... I seated the spring correctly this time (and for those that have done this, you know it's a lot of work to get it all apart again!) and the truck settled on +/-5/8" higher than before. I like it.

So, I should have ordered a 4/6 drop instead of a 4.5/6 drop. Oops.

Probably not the best pic, but there is still about a 1" rake from front to back, it just much less noticeable now.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Almost forgot... all of my brand new trim was destroyed in a hail storm in March 2016. My deductible is $500... so no sense in claiming it, the damage was right around $500. The DS door is aftermarket and was the only body panel I found with dings, it just had a few light ones you have to squint to find. I'm putting OEM doors back on anyway.

These pics were taken almost 2 hours later and they were still quarter+ sized. My wifes car was destroyed, 8K in damage to her 2011 Mustang. House had around 15K in damage.





Even broke the signal lens!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Next up on the "make it better" list was shocks... I wasn't exactly thrilled with my new ECE shocks. They left a lot to be desired, especially in the back of the truck... they felt very bouncy. Apparently I wasn't the only one that felt this way:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=shock

I highly recommend measuring your truck at ride height before ordering, as the rear shocks recommended by another poster in that thread are incorrect.

I measured my shocks to be 11" up front and 14.5" in the rear, center of bolt to center of bolt.

The dimension are in the link below. I went with ones that looked to have a decent amount of play up and down from ride height.

http://www.classicperform.com/Catalo...hock_Specs.pdf

I ended up with the 4809G up front with a range of 9" to 13-1/2” 9”. I went with 4095G for the rear with a range of 11-3/4” to 18-1/2”.

So was it worth it? The shocks were about $160 total from Summit. At that price, yes, it was worth it. The truck (especially the rear) is A LOT less "bouncy." It feels a little more planted and takes bumps better. Still doesn't ride as good as it did at stock height, but pretty close.

*Side note... I freakin' HATE shocks that don't have an upper cover. They look cheap and unfinished...

[67ChevyRedneck]

And to end the updates... I decided to go in a different direction... the 700R4 will be coming out and a 5 speed will go back in its place...

[Bubba4spd]

Glad you found one, I'm still searching.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Bubba4spd

Glad you found one, I'm still searching.

Stole it from your state, LKQ in atlanta. Only 109k, came from 01 s10 blazer that was rear ended. I paid up for it but quickly discovered they aren't plentiful so I pulled the trigger.

So, of course... now I can't find my clutch pedal I removed, oh, 14 years ago?

[Bubba4spd]

Should be easy to find one here someplace, most everyone now a days likes automatics. Too bad too, would have loved to have ordered a six speed manual in my 16 Silverado.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by Bubba4spd

Glad you found one, I'm still searching.

Check carpart.com it will search all the yards within a specified range that you set. There are plenty around depending on what you want to pay.

Originally Posted by Bubba4spd

Should be easy to find one here someplace, most everyone now a days likes automatics. Too bad too, would have loved to have ordered a six speed manual in my 16 Silverado.

FYI thats a NV3500 5 spd from a 4.3 S10...

[Bubba4spd]

Originally Posted by bluex

Check carpart.com it will search all the yards within a specified range that you set. There are plenty around depending on what you want to pay.



FYI thats a NV3500 5 spd from a 4.3 S10...

Thank you! I will pull up the website tonight. I've had my eyes open for a T5 out of a 4.3 S10 but the NV would work just as well.

[Bubba4spd]

Didn't mean to highjack your thread 67ChevyRedneck.

[Bubba4spd]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I don't drill holes, holes lead to rust, the trim rubbing flush against the paint leads to rust... and I hate rust.

Now a days, I back all my trim with 3M double sided tape. You have to take time to make sure the trim fits right and mark where you want it to go, as you only have one shot to get it right. I didn't take pics of the truck trim, but I installed it like I did on my mustang (starts at post 77):

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=526257&page=4

I always leave the bottoms open or slotted, depending on length of trim or emblem, to let any water that may ever get back there to drop out.

67ChevyRedneck, we use a lot of 3M 300mph tape in my window business. With material cost being what it is, I can't afford my employees to make a mess of putting the tape down wrong. So what we do and we have tested it to be sure it doesn't affect the finish product, we first wet the surface with mild soapy water. It allows the tape to be moved around long enough before it flash dries and takes a set. Once dried, it's there! Has worked for us for many years without any call backs/failures.