8 lug disc brakes

[May70]

Hello folks,

Ive done some searching on the forum for this topic and found some info but not too much. I saw this thread with a DIY (piece it together). There was no follow up to this and a saw some comments that didnt think that idea would work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=647049

I want front disc brakes on my 8 lug wheels. Does anyone have any info for this? I also have the stock wheels which I want to keep. So will disc brakes fit on it with those wheels?

I cant justify 1000$ for the kit. Im trying to find a square body 8 lug donor for the parts but am not having too much luck. Thats why I like the idea of diy piece together approach with later model parts I can just go up to the store and order new. Guidance would be great. THANKS!!!

[thehata1]

I know you're on the other side of the country. But, here is a full setup for $200.

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...998459587.html

[rpmerf]

You can grab square body stuff and swap it in. All the C10 ideas still apply. Look for a 2WD from 71-87. Goes up to 90 or 91 for Suburbans.

I bought an 83 (or 84?) C20 with no engine or trans for $350 to get the front suspension off of. Here is my plan.

Keep on the 1970:
Steering box (recently replaced)
Pitman arm (recently replaced)
Control Arms (replace shafts)
Brake Booster (recently replaced)
Sway bar (replace bushings)

Need to come from a 1983 (new or used):
Spindles (used)
Upper and Lower Ball Joints (new)
Tie Rod Ends - Inner, Outter, Adjusting Sleeve (new)
Center Link (used)
Idler Arm (new)
Calipers (new)
Rotors (check condition)
Pads (check condition)
Caliper Hoses (new)
Wheel Bearings (check condition)
Wheel Seal (check condition)
Spindle Nut + washer (gets replaced with rotor)
Master Cylinder (new)
Proportioning valve (used)
Dust Shields (used)

I looking around, I was able to find from Rock Auto aside from the following items.
SPINDLES! This is the hard one. Needs to come from a C20. I believe CPP has them new for about $300.
Center Link. This can come from a C10.
Proportioning valve. This can come from a C10 also. There are custom adjustable ones.

For all suspension parts (ball joints, tie rods, idler arm control arm shafts, swaybar bushings), I go with Moog. I might go with AC Delco for the suspension parts, but they don't have lower ball joints. A lot of the brake parts with either be AC Delco, Wagner, or Raybestos. Trying to keep as many parts from the same company as possible.

There are a couple ways to run the brake lines. You can match the factory 67-70 way and have the prop valve mounted under the master, or how it was later with the prop valve mounted under the radiator.

In the 80's there was JB6 and JB7 braking systems. JB7 is more heavy duty. Larger master, calipers, and wider rotors.

Pitman arm should match the steering box. Where it goes into the center shaft is the same. Idler arm changed around 83-84.

You can keep your center link and inner tie rods and get a conversion adjusting sleeve. I elected not to do this because I wanted all the parts to match. I wanted a setup exactly as it came from GM, with factory original or off the shelf replacement parts.

You can grab a whole cradle and swap it, but you need to pull the engine off the cradle to do this.

You might be able to buy fully assembled control arms.

[Barnfind46]

I swapped in 85' c-20 brakes on my 68' years ago. I like that I can get parts any where. Big improvement on the drums.

[67 twins]

You can grab a whole cradle and swap it, but you need to pull the engine off the cradle to do this. .[/QUOTE]

You really only need to pull one bolt on either side that goes through the engine perch & cradle. Leave the rest of the mount & perch in place and drop the cradle out the bottom.