49 GMC leaf springs

[Volfandt]

Been perusing many threads here on straight axle and leaf spring suspensions and I've some questions I'll throw out.
The truck is a 49 GMC 100 that I traded for back last fall. The 250 in it was shot and wasn't running when I got it. Someone put some "old school" mod's to it, some good, some not so good and I'm sorting through the various subsystems.
It's been slammed by removing springs and running 14" Crager's. The drivetrain is a TH350, open driveshaft and an 10 bolt Chevy 8.5 rear.

On the front straight axle theres only 2 springs and they're either bent or bowed opposite from stock. I don't know if they are monoleafs or someone just removed leafs.
Question 1, is this SOP for just 2 leafs or are they worn/bent/bowed out of shape. How should they sit, level?
Question 2, this 49 originally had lever shocks, now it has short tube shocks mount inside the frame. I had to remove the right one to clear the fuel pump of the SBC I just installed. I may use the same method and mount it on the outside. With one shock inside the frame and the other outside, good or bad?
Question 3, To make clearance I moved the steering gearbox out 1 3/4", anyone ever heat and bend a pitman arm or is there a replacement available?
I've got a full set of used but servicable OEM springs so I can go back that route but don't want to replace the wheels and tires. Something tells me they'd look bad with the truck raised back up to stock height.
Trying to stay within a strict budget so I'm wanting to work with what I've got. No IFS, Posies, power steering or IDIDIT upgrades at this time but maybe added later.
Thanks
Dave

[dsraven]

I am not sure about the highway traffic act in your area but in Canada it is unlawful for you to heat, bend, weld or otherwise modify a steering part.
do you have plans on raising the truck some? the reason I ask is that the rubber suspension snubber is very close to bottoming out on the frame at ride height.
I think there are adjustable drag links but I have not heard or seen a pitman arm that is bent to be 3/4" offset.
does the offset steering box affect the steering wheel placement/angle then or is there a joint somewhere to keep the steering column straight?

[Volfandt]

Thanks for the reply.
re. altering a steering part, I'm unaware of any laws about modifying frontend/steering on classic vehicles but I'd guess the various kit's, IFS installs and lowered/slammed suspensions to name just a few would also be subject to said laws if they are on the books.

re. how the steering wheel sits with the gearbox moved out. Actually if I didn't tell you, you'd probably not even notice it.

Before I alter the pitman arm I want to get the stance situated. I do want to raise it a couple inches as I'm not the biggest fan of slammed trucks. It's destined to be a cruiser and I've got alot of railroad crossings to negotiate. I know this isn't a popular statement now adays but what the heck we all got our opinions. LOL
I'm probably going to try to trade the 14" Cragers and tires for a good set of 15" too....

Anyways, I'm thinking on experimenting with various leaf combinations to get the stance I'm looking for. I want to do it before I put the clip back on.
The more I think about it, I'd say those 2 front springs were somewhat level when originally put together then bowed over time. Course if someone happens along with pics showing a new set of Posie's or other monoleafs etc., being bowed from the get-go then I'll stand corrected.

Heres a pic of how it sat when I picked it up. I really didn't like that I couldn't get a jack under the front axle. Hooking the chain up to pull it on the trailer was a pain LOL.... I guess I'm just old school LOL.
Dave

[mr48chev]

It's pretty much standard procedure to heat and bend the pitman arm. We heated mine near the top to bend it in and near the bottom to straighten it back out so the tie rod worked right. That pretty well has to be done for tire clearance when you move the box out. As long as you let it cool naturally I don't see a problem with doing it as steering arms are heated and bent all the time for clearance.

On the spring that is what happens when you remove too many leaves from the springs. Some of the guys are probably cringing at the thought of seeing the photo of my similarly bent springs again so I'll say mine is just as bad as yours and I have seen a lot of them bent that way over the years. The best idea would be either having Sids drop your axle or gettng a dropped axle from him and getting a pair of proper lowering springs for the front. I can't knock the 14 inch wheels as I ran 14 inch on the front for a lot of years.

On the shocks either get some stock 51/54 shock brackets or maybe fab some that will put the shock on the outside of the frame rail. You will have to get longer brake lines and reroute them though.

Looking at the photo, my old brain says it isn't normal to have the calipers mounted on the front side like that but that may be due to the design of the particular disk brake kit.

[mr48chev]

Looking at your photos it looks like you should be able to swap the lower shock mount brackets side to side to put the shocks on the outside of the frame and then use a regular shock stud on the shock on the outside of the frame. I think I would lean them a bit forward like stock shocks are but that isn't a necessity. There shouldn't be any real reason to have them on the inside of the rails.

[Volfandt]

Thanks for the replys.
re. leafs. Since the truck was non-running I have no idea how it handled or if those front leafs were worn or even if it was normal for dropping the front. Since it's so low, there was already a problem with the pitman arm and drag link hanging down way past parallel so I'm assuming it had some bad bump steering going on.
Bending the pitman arm could also shorten it which may be a win win. I'm still going to try putting a few more springs on and seeing how it effects the stance, I'm thinking on starting with 4.

re. brake calipers. I had the same thoughts too. They cross ref to a 72 C10 but I'm sure they fit many other GM models. I have no idea on who made the brackets/kit or how old it is but they work now since I had to replace the booster and M/S (spec'd to a 75 Pinto). Research indicates they'll work fine on the leading edge. Seems weight and space dictates what position to mount them.

Pretty much every subsystem has had issues and I'm working through them one at a time. Fixing and correcting them as I go. I've got other irons in the fire (an all original 49 Chevy 3100 I keep running) so sticking to a tight budget is paramount. Going with a power steering setup would have corrected alot of issues LOL.... And will probably be the 1st new mod I'll add after I enjoy a cruise or 2 or 3.

Dave