Breaking in Engine and Tranny???

[cg285]

there is only ONE person needed for this (very minor) task. don't stress over it.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You're way over thinking this process!
Your priority is your cam break in.
Use break in oil.
Fill your tranny until it shows full and then ignore it until after you're all done the break in.
Don't let your motor idle at all. You want instant rpm. Fill your float bowls with fuel, open your idle screw one turn past fully closed. THat will give you enough rpm for a quick start. As the motor warms up you'll need to vary the rpm. If you don't have a tach, then think more rpm is better, never less.
Leave your distributor loose enough to move easily but tight enough not to rotate on it's own.
Have your timing light hooked up and ready to go if you need to check your timing when you're back to an idle. Don't worry about excess timing. You'll have no load on it. You'll likely want to fine tune your timing(without the timing light) while it breaks in. Do that by ear. Listen to your motor. Adjust enough to hear it run smooth. Adjust gently.
Have a fan in front of the rad to help cooling. Fill the rad and put the cap on and leave it there. Use a good trouble light or a good lamp under the motor to see for any leaks. Have a catch pan or two available if you do get some leaks.
Get a big clock and put it where you can see it. Time will be hazy as you do this. Better a bit more than not enough.

I'm sure I could think of a bunch more, but my brain says nap time!!
Above all, have fun!!

Not trying to overthink it, but I know it sounds that way. I guess that's what you get when you ask and get multiple responses....couple that with I'm the type that likes to tear things apart to figure out how they work. I have to know something is done, that's how I learn. Sometimes it just takes me asking the question to see the answer.

I'll have a few hands on deck, several people want to be there when she comes alive and sounds like i need someone to fill tranny, while someone sits in truck and rev's her.

Thanks for the replies....now if UPS would just show up with my parts!!

[geezer#99]

LIke I said, fill the tranny before hand and forget it till later.
You don't want someone in the cab revving it. People have been known to panic and shut it down when they hear an odd noise. Use the curb idle screw for that. EAsier to control with a screwdriver.
Put those two people out of the way sitting on the porch. You don't need them.
You only need two people. One to crank it over until it fires, gets out and checks for leaks etc.
Your job is to control the idle speed and manually adjust the distributor if needed.
And keep an eye on everything.
And only one of you makes idle or timing adjustments. Less chance for errors.
Some more tips!
Have all the screwdrivers and wrenches you might need on a table handy to get at. You might need to tighten a hose or a bolt. Be prepped for that.
And the big one!!
Leave the brew in the fridge until you're well done the job.

[MASTERBrian]

Got it, idle screw one turn past closed and use that to vary throttle. I'm guessing hook tack up to view from engine compartment.
Someone said timing Mark at 16°, still need to read up on timing, I think the distributor is stabbed prefect, at TDC, but I'll double check once I advance the timing Mark at balancer.

My question is why don't you want to shut the motor down? I'm guessing so you spend less time having the cam running without proper lube while it's getting 'mated' to the lifters.

What things do you listen for- besides obviously clanging, etc....What if a lifter is making a lot of noise, do I pull cover off while running or just adjust later. I'm sure it'll all make more sense once she's fired and going.

[MASTERBrian]

Oh and if it's been about a month since I primed it, should I pull the distributor and do it again? Might require a good pull once more as my old corded drill was having a tough time before, I hadn't switched to a hammer drill on drill only function.

[geezer#99]

If you got a tach use it but don't depend on it. They've been known to not work at sorta critical times.
You can ball park set your timing but just leave the distributor loose enough to turn. You might need to try different spots to get it to fire. Some motors are touchy that way.
AS for not shutting it down. You want the rpm to splash the cam but you also need enough time to build heat into the cam too so the surfaces wear in to each other.
Sure listen for missfires, or lifters. A noisy lifter won't hurt anything for 15 minutes running. Better to enjoy the noise and finish the breakin.
Also be hands on. Test the top rad hose with your hand for heat so you know the thermostat opened. Feel the valve covers for any vibrations. etc etc.
Re-priming won't hurt.

[MASTERBrian]

Looks like Lucas sae 30 had the highest zinc content, so that's what I'll likely order and only $30 for five quarts from summit.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10631-1

That's based on info from hotrod.com article.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Alex V.

Are you saying your valve adjusting method involved adjusting the preload just after it started opening, or did I misunderstand? The object is to have the lifter at rest, completely off the lobe, then take all slack out of the components plus less than a whole turn to compress the spring in the lifter.

This is the method I used.

I have posted this before and feel it will help you. Please read the part about the correct "feel" to get '0' lash.

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters On Small Block Chevrolet

This method is with the engine OFF and spark plugs removed for easier rotation.

Install all the hydraulic lifters and pushrods.

NOTE: New lifters do not have to be pre-lubed. Assembly lube should be put on the cam and the mating face of the lifters.

Install all the rockers and the adjusting nuts leaving them loose. Do not tighten the adjusting nuts before adjusting the valves. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making the adjustments.

Adjust one valve at a time.

Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise looking from the front of the engine) until the exhaust lifter on the cylinder that you are adjusting just begins to move up. At this point adjust the intake valve on that cylinder to ‘0’ lash with no pre-load. Then tighten the adjusting nut ¼ to ½ additional turns.

Rotate the engine over again until the intake lifter has come to the full lift and then is almost all the way back down. At this point adjust the exhaust valve to ‘0’ lash and then tighten an additional ¼ to ½ turns.

Continue the above for each cylinder until all the valves have been adjusted.

NOTE: Rather than spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’, I suggest holding the pushrod between two fingers and lifting the pushrod up and down while slowly tightening the adjusting nut. When you reach the point where there is no up and down movement you will be at ‘0’ lash.

The problem with spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’ is that you can and will still be able to spin the pushrod even if you bottom out the lifter. This can cause you to over tighten the adjustment and can lead to bent and / or broken pushrods and valves.

Priming the oil system before starting the engine will fill the hydraulic lifters.