Converting a k-5 4x4 to a 2wd

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Wasted Income

I'm just salty that there's a bunch of badass stuff available now, that wasn't available then....

My core gripe is that at the time, you guys weren't a one-stop shop for all your 4x4 to 2wd conversion needs, like it appears you are now. I would have preferred to buy everything from you...the quality of the stuff I did get was incredible, and I had a hard time cutting it up

I would also like to say that when I saw you guys selling the inner frame stiffeners a couple weeks back, i wanted to bash my head on my desk. That is something that I'd absolutely have bought, especially since I didn't have time to do it myself with my tight timeline for getting the truck on the road, and it's too late now. I know...i know...1st world problems, cry me a river.

I guess C-10 suspension are like electronics. As soon as it arrives at your doorstep, it's already obsolete/out of date. lol. Overall that's not a bad thing for guys wanting to build badass trucks.

I get it. And I did not intend to seem like I was coming down on you at all. If it seemed that way, I apologize.

I was just a little irritated by a previous post. Good news is that I think we are all holding hands again and might even spoon later.

One of our main goals is to provide our customers with a product that matches all of their expectations. This often requires extra effort and always requires good communication... both things that we do a pretty decent job at, but not always perfect.

In regards to the inner frame stiffener... don't feel too bad, it DOESN'T fit a blazer!

Nate

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

In regards to the inner frame stiffener... don't feel too bad, it DOESN'T fit a blazer!

Nate

Thats never stopped me from using your parts before

Also, I'm usually the big spoon.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

Wasted Income.... you are correct. At the time we didn't make a rear kit that would do what you wanted it to do on the 4WD blazer. We discussed this and made some recommendations for the parts that we did have that would be compatible... you pulled the trigger and we got you what we could, and for the most part I thought it worked out well for you.



Ken-

In the end, you are the customer... and you obviously aren't 100% satisfied. So we need to address this.

However, the part that surprises me most is the fact that this is the FIRST time we have heard about you not being satisfied. We get a PM from a forum member (not a phone call or an email from YOU) asking if I have seen this thread. I make my way over here and am actually pretty surprised at what I am reading.

The reason I am so surprised is because we were perfectly clear up front, in our multiple conversations that we did not make a "kit" for a Stage 2 rear conversion on a 4WD blazer frame. We discussed working together with YOU and your builder to send what we had and fine tune and dial it in as necessary.

Yes, there was a delay on your parts, and yes, we did send some of the incorrect parts out for the rear (notches). However it was rectified, and each time we spoke or emailed it was never a "rush" as you were waiting to get in over at your builder. As mentioned, this is the FIRST time we are hearing about your level of dissatisfaction.

In regards to the front kit, it is not a 100% bolt-in, as the 4WD blazer frame does not have the same mounting hole provisions for the 2WD cross-member. There is the need to measure and drill. However it does fit... Not overly complicated, but all this was discussed. We even discussed how you wanted your wheels to sit (in regards to trac width). And our solution was to send out a standard length set of arms for a baseline and then we would build you what you needed to get it just how you wanted it.

I would agree that your build is very unique and very specific. In our conversations you even made the comment several times that none of the "other companies" would even talk to you about it. We discussed what we had available and what we were willing to do to help complete it and dial it in while working together. You signed off and pulled the trigger.

You were NEVER told it was a direct fit kit, but were told that we would work with you and your builder to dial it in. We spent hours and hours discussing things on the phone... over and over and over. And now here we are, reading about you *****ing about us on line when it is completely off base.

If we were any other company we would tell you to take a hike. However, we don't treat our customers that way. The original offer still stands to work together and dial in some of the components to help you reach your end goal.

Do me a favor and give us a call so we can help provide you with everything we originally discussed.

Nate

Well first off I've never talked to you Nate, so I do appolgise for the conditions of our first corospondance, I've only ever talked to Dave. If made right I will whole heartedly endorse you till the cows come home, I intended for my build thread to show that you guys were capable of more than frame draggers. The OP specifically asked about doing exactly what I'm trying to do, I shared my experiences. Are my statements off base? I don't think so, but I'm also not going to turn this into an itemized pubic argument it does neither of us any good, and I never said you weren't likable guys, you are, well Dave is, like I said I've never talked to you, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.

If all becomes right with the world I will share that as well, and belive me I would like nothing better than to be a proud braggy happy Porterbuilt customer.

I've given my new fabricator your number Nate, you've met him before, he should be calling you.

[notsolo]

Dealing with a straight 4 X4 frame, Here is what I did on mine 5" X 5" 3/8 steel plate under the frame and a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 5" steel angle outside the frame.

[GLHS60]

I'm new here and just came across this thread. A friend who has a local shop is just finishing up a 4 wheel drive to 2 wheel drive conversion on a 1971 Blazer and there is sure more to it than one would think!!

Thanks
Randy

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Dealing with a straight 4 X4 frame, Here is what I did on mine 5" X 5" 3/8 steel plate under the frame and a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 5" steel angle outside the frame.

I thought about doing it this way too but was worried about frame twist under loads. I am going to use my truck as a truck and cruiser. Will also be launching the boat.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Livrat

Converting one does involve a good amount of work, I have done 26 conversions in the last 30 years, I have done it in every conceivable configuration, from using OEM donor parts, to aftermarket crossmembers to 4 link rear suspension, The easiest and least costly way is to use a 71/72 donor truck.

I usually charge $2500 (including donor parts) to do the basic conversion.

Dude I would do this all day long for 2500. I'm not saying it's not worth it because it's def some work but I could easily turn out one a week

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Livrat

Converting one does involve a good amount of work, I have done 26 conversions in the last 30 years, I have done it in every conceivable configuration, from using OEM donor parts, to aftermarket crossmembers to 4 link rear suspension, The easiest and least costly way is to use a 71/72 donor truck.

I usually charge $2500 (including donor parts) to do the basic conversion.

Dude I would do this all day long for 2500. I'm not saying it's not worth it because it's def some work but I could easily turn out one a week

[elkniks]

I used a 1980 front crossmember, ECE springs, factory trailing arms(welded), no limit rear shock kit(did not fit per instructions but I made it work), and everything else cpp(A arms, trans crossmember, trailing arm crossmember, panhard bar, for the rear coil mounts I used the crossmember from the forward rear leaf springs mounts and built off of that to center the rear coils just outside of the frame rail. I still need a notch in the rear(only about an inch of travel). It all took me about a month and a buttload of money. I followed gringoloco's instructions on the rear setup and it aligned dead on and rear wheels are centered nice in openings. Go for it, you will not regret it. I would do it again. It is stressful measuring and drilling holes but if you do the research here you will find the answers. Worst part for me was drilling holes in top of frame rail in the rear with the body on. Had to use shortest drill bits I could find and a right angle drill. The front is easy, the rear sucked. I would remove the body next time if possible. Have Fun!

Pictures are a little cattywampus there, oh well.