Is it really cheaper to do your own body work?

[bubbaNcolo]

I've got a 71 Burb, it needs a lot of body work due to rust and damage.
The body has rust on all the rockers, major rust behind both rear wheels, around wheels openings.
So I would need body patch panels for all of these areas. I would think I'd need cut out rusty part and replace it. So not only a welder but a tool to cut rust out.
There is damage on the 4th fake door not sure how bad but bondo has cracked bad.
LH taillight corner is damaged on side and back and would need major repair or replacement.

This burb is really a PU cab and front clip welded to a burb rear section.
Burb has a homemade camo paint job and then someone primered the entire lower half of body but didn't fix any of the damage. So she is one ugly mother! Oh and has a 200lbs front bumper from hell.

Would it be cheaper to pay someone to do the body work or buy all the welders and air compressors and tools required to do body work? I've got mechanic tools but not body work tools. Still need to paint it and learn to paint it.
I've even looked into finding a complete body only, and swap out thinking it would be in good enough shape that I wouldn't worry about looks too much. This I could do without buying tools and equipment and pay for paint later.

The frame, axles, springs, drive tran, engine are all out of a 64-86 3/4 4X4 Burb. I've already gone through engine, carb, distributor which has a recent rebuild, trans was rebuilt and is a TH400, transfer case is a 208 aluminum unit, front axle is stock, rear axle is out of a delivery truck. Axle ratio is 4:10/4:11. Heater controls fixed, window regulators fixed, door latches fixed, rear axle side bearings replaced, front wheel bearings replaced, front and rear brakes fixed. Mechaniclly it's solid except for a weird popping noise when in 4X4 under load (once per revelution of the wheels) which can be felt under the seat, I've checked the front axle including axle ratio, checked drive shaft, checked for a loose chain in transfer case all seem good. So this is a bastard Burb if there was ever one. So not what I'd call a collectable in orginal shape. Due to welding work on sandwiching two bodies togather interior is going to need work around windshield if it gets restored.

Is this baby worth restoring? Based on some of your pictures I'd have to say YES but then again re-read detail above.

I have two possible outcomes for this project:
1. Leave body in current condition but simply repaint with camo paint to semi-hide rust areas using a rusty paint color. I'd make up a template pattern so camo doesn't look so chicken!@#$ Camo pattern would hide most rough areas on burb. I really will use this for mostly hunting and fishing. In fact in some regards restoring this to orginal condition would cause me to worry about damage during hunting and fishing use. I've worked on the mechanical parts and feel pretty good about reliablity of burb.

2. Restore Burb to orginal condition with new paint and rust removed, damage repaired, seats redone, carpet installed, interier restored, etc. I want to keep it a 3/4 4X4 and pretty much stock. Still could take it hunting if I don't go to nuts with interior etc. and maybe the wife would want to ride with me when I drive this!

[Frizzle Fry]

Buy a 110v buzz box for $300 an angle grinder and a sawzall and do the rust repair. Then you can have someone else smooth it over and paint it. You'll come out ahead and never regret having a welder once you use it a few times.

[milehightoyz]

I would say practice joining some scrap pieces of 18-20 gauge stuff play with it, maybe cut up some old fenders and get used to how it feels before you tackle your real body as to save your body man from having to iron out warped panels, thatll get expensive.

[bubbaNcolo]

Ok so I buy a Miller 220 so I have my welder, what do I buy to cut out the rust?

[milehightoyz]

A miller 220 is way overkill for just auto body work. But for cutting, shears, nibblers, pneumatic cutting wheels, 4.5" angle grinder, plasma cutter, etc.

[Frizzle Fry]

You can use a 110v for sheetmetal all day long. For cutting I get by with just an angle grinder (with cutoff wheels, grinding discs, and wire wheels), and a sawzall.

[bubbaNcolo]

Wouldn't I also need a pretty darn good air compressor to run a die grinder or cut off tool, then the DA sanders etc. I figured getting a compressor that could put out 17-20 CFM @90psi.

[prairewolf]

I had a Vo-Tech school in town here do mine, they did it as a class project where i paid for Paint, misc. shop supplies and a shop fee or what ever, total was 19hundred eighty three and change. they did a pretty good job.
Two-tone, Medium Olive with white roof. I pick it up monday and will post pics with wifes help soon.

I brought it to a restoration shop for a quote prior to checking out the Vo- tech,
that guy quoted me about 4 grand just for paint. I am sure it would have been nice but i am still happy with what i ended up with.

P.S if the restoration shop has a more than one Cadillac Escalade parked out front they have a little profit margin in the paint.( no offense to good body shops with Escalades parked out front.).

life is good,kent

[bubbaNcolo]

Well I finally toke pictures of this project Burb, she isnt' as bad as I thought but still a lot of work. Note in some pictures where the roof over cab came out of a blue burb but bottom of cab etc is original green and in the color I would like to end up unless I camo it back out until $$ is available to do a real paint job. But first I need to cut out rust and seal her up. Hope I can post this with this many pictures. Part one of pictures

[bubbaNcolo]

Part 2 of pictures