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Old 09-23-2018, 12:56 PM   #126
bluex
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

That fitech sump thing overheating pumps is something I heard about a lot. One of the main reasons I went with an in-tank pump. I hope they take care of it for you....
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:29 AM   #127
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Quote:
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That fitech sump thing overheating pumps is something I heard about a lot. One of the main reasons I went with an in-tank pump. I hope they take care of it for you....
Yeah I knew about that ahead of time that's why I modified mine to cycle the fuel back to the tank. Most guys don't have any issues using it that way.

I found out why mine failed. I ran the truck for a few minutes, shut it off. I pulled the return line off the sump and fuel sprayed everywhere. This should not have been under pressure. I put a little bit of air through the line and realized it was plugged. I don't know what was in it but I was able to bump the pressure and clear whatever was in the line. The low pressure gauge now reads next to zero pressure which makes sense as the fuel is filling and then returning to the tank once its fills. Previously it was reading 5-6 psi.

The system now runs a lot cooler. I don't expect any future issues.


edit. The pump got pretty hot ;-)
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:27 PM   #128
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Realized a couple days ago that my backup lights were not working in reverse but only in drive. So I assumed my neutral safety switch was out of adjustment. After spending some time trying to adjust it I realized there wasn't enough adjustment in the switch. So I slotted the ends to get just another 1/8" or so that I needed. Works fine now. I assume the custom shift rod and aftermarket shifter lever is causing the issue. Sorry I forgot to take pictures.
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Old 09-29-2018, 01:13 PM   #129
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Made another voyage to work and back and some errands yesterday without any issues. My sump is still getting nearly 120* when in stop and go traffic but Im guessing the fuel isn't anywhere near that. It should just be the outside of the housing. When I tested the fuel temp coming from the sump when diagnosing the problem it was only 80*ish.

Im getting a weird noise when braking and coming off throttle so last night I decided to check the exhaust. Im pretty certain my H pipe is hitting the bottom of the cab so I pulled it off. Im going to rework it today and hope that fixes it.

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Old 10-01-2018, 09:59 AM   #130
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

I reworked the H pipe on the truck Saturday. I had to run to Napa and get a tight 90* bend to keep the pipe closer to the trans.

This was my original pipe I made a couple weeks ago. I had crushed the top of it to clear the cab but I wasn't happy with leaving it like that. I wasn't able to get my hand in between the 2 so I wanted to fix that.



I found a piece of scrap metal to weld the ends together so that when I cut the center section out it keeps the angle and length close to the same.


Welded back together with the new pipes.


And repainted.



Ive been getting a noise in the rearend that I've been struggling to figure out. Its like something was shifting when applying the brakes or getting hard on the throttle. It also did it when shifting into reverse.

So I got under the truck and started rolling the truck forward and backward and I got it to do it. I realized the whole damn axle was turning inside the flip kit. As in the flipkit was rocking back and worth because it didn't fit tight up into both sides of the leaf pad. I had mentioned this to RideTech when I was installing the kit and they thought it would be fine. Obviously it wasn't.

So I went about adding a tab to lengthen the bracket. I cut a small section of scrap frame I had. Drilled a couple holes and welded it into place. My new Hobart welder was awesome to weld this 3/16'ish steel with.





I painted it up and reinstalled it and the noise is gone. Pretty simple fix for an awful noise.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:58 AM   #131
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

After driving the truck around for a bit I decided I had to do something with the exhaust drone. Around 1600-1900 its just obnoxious. The 3" is obviously way too big for my engine combo but Im trying to work with what I've got.

I decided to leave the 50 series flowmasters and install some Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonators after the axle. I also wanted to move the tailpipes closer to the rear bumper as I've read that helps noise as well.

You can see in this first pic how I was able to move the tips out further. The nearest tip is before adding the resonator.





These resonators only come in stainless so it was a struggle for me to weld them. I didn't have the correct wire to weld but read you could get by with whatever the standard is. The struggle I think came down to how thin the stainless resonators were. It melted quick! I also had to fill a bit because the original exhaust pipe wasn't completely round because of how it was bent so there was small gaps between the two pipes. I got it done but Im not pleased with the results of the welds.

It was late when I finished so I didn't get to drive the truck but the initial start up and idle is a significant improvement. My wife said, "well the house didn't shake when you started it up"

If this doesn't knock the sound down to my liking Im not exactly sure what Ill do.. Maybe weld some J-pipes in the front pipes or something...
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:08 AM   #132
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

I do like the look of putting the pipes closer to the plate. Looks GOOD!!
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:53 PM   #133
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Been a minute since my last update. My wife and I went off to Sedona for some hiking/offroading and relaxation last week.

The new resonators are awesome! They cut out a ton of drone and noise. Really happy with that.

So the Saturday before I left I went to cars and coffee in the morning. Small turnout but got to talk to a few folks, etc. I needed to stop off at whole foods to pickup an Amazon package before our trip. I run in, run back out and try to start the truck and it just GRINDS loud. Like the starter gear was rubbing up against the ring gear or something. I beat on it with a 2x4 I had, even went so far as to walk over to my work (couple blocks away) and got a socket and breaker bar to turn the engine over. Nothing helped.

So I waited 2 hrs for a Flatbed to come drag my ass home. Frustrating.


Anyway so I get it jacked up and take a gander. The gear is engaged on the ring gear when I first look at it. So it doesn't make any sense why it was grinding and not turning the engine over unless something failed inside the starter.

As soon as I loosened the starter the gear retracted. I bench tested it and every 4 or 5 times I spun it up the gear stuck. So something in the solenoid was sticking. So whatever. While I was off I ordered a gear reduction unit from Summit. I installed it yesterday and everything is good now. I did have to extend the wires to the new starter as the terminals are farther reward.


A couple weeks ago one morning I realized I didn't have any heat inside the cabin. The truck was getting plenty warm but no heat. Yesterday I flushed the heater core to make sure it wasn't clogged. It was fine. After looking around the net for a bit I realized I had my heater hoses routed wrong. I had the inlet side to the heater core coming from the return side of the water pump. So it wasn't flowing any coolant. So I had to move fittings and sensors around on the intake to get that working. Gets HOT now.

My heater controls aren't functioning now either. I have 13-14 inches of vacuum at the back of the unit but seem to have a leak somewhere as I can hear it bleed off when I shut the truck off. So I need to get a hand vacuum pump to try and diagnose that. fun stuff.

Oh and the truck has a lean misfire at around 3500rpm now under full load. Need to run some diag on the Holley and figure that out. It seems to have started sometime after my fuel pump replacement but that doesn't make any sense as the fuel pump Im using should support 2x the HP my truck makes.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:20 AM   #134
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Worked on the vents last night. I ran over to harbor freight and picked up a mighty vac hand pump. I pulled the vacuum lines off the selector and checked each one by one. All held vacuum so my leak wasn't in the lines. So I plugged the head back in and went out to the track and pulled the main vacuum line and hooked up my pump. I had my wife run the pump while I was inside. The leak was coming from the vacuum selector at the back of the heater control unit. So I decided to take it apart and figure out what was going on. Of course the clip broke that holds it all together. The "seal" was a little hard but I cleaned it up and lubed it up and made up a small bolt/nut/washer setup so I could adjust the tension on the seal. I then plugged my vacuum lines back in and everything held vacuum. I was able to actuate all the flaps. So that's fixed!

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Old 10-18-2018, 11:11 AM   #135
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Nice work on the hvac. I would have struggled to find enough patience to solve that one!
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:29 AM   #136
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Great work trouble shooting. I'm with Marcus, I would not have the patience to get that job done...
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Old 10-24-2018, 10:56 AM   #137
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

I just ready this thread from the start. Excellent work. I will have a build starting very soon and you have helped me plan for my own.
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Old 10-24-2018, 12:24 PM   #138
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike W. View Post
I just ready this thread from the start. Excellent work. I will have a build starting very soon and you have helped me plan for my own.
I appreciate it. More to come.
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Old 11-06-2018, 05:15 PM   #139
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Enjoyed the couple days of nice weather we had over the weekend. Drove the truck around for a bit. Then the alternator failed... I initially thought it was a wiring issue because when running the exciter wire only showed 4V. Spent several hours diagnosing it. Eventually got frustrated and ran to the parts store to get an alternator and it fixed it.

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Old 11-07-2018, 09:11 PM   #140
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

Since driving the truck I hated how the throttle pedal felt super heavy. The spring tension on the sniper is too much imo. So I read around a little and decided to try and adjust the leverage on the cable. So I made a small bracket to bolt up to the sniper that gave the pedal cable more leverage. Wow, what an improvement for such a little part. My air cleaner is a little too close to it but I "modified" it enough to clear everything. Such a good, free mod.

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Old 11-07-2018, 09:37 PM   #141
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

I've been messing around with the idea of adding some sort of button or paddle shift to the truck since the HGM controller has the ability to do so. I've been fiddling with the shift logic and haven't got it quite where I want it. Some of it has easy adjustments that I still need to fine tune and the other is a bit more complicated. Its mainly how to get the downshift when I want and the truck upshifting too early.

Anyway, I searched around on eBay one day looking for some cheap paddle shifters. I ran across these decent looking, simple Lexus paddle shifters. They were 3 wire just like the trans controller was setup for. 1 signal wire for each shifter and a common ground between the 2.



I then had to come up with a bracket. I found a piece of scrap 1/8" aluminum to bend up. Not having a band saw or anything nice to cut it with I had to use a recip saw and it was ugly. I cut a couple pieces and had a friend glue them together for me with his tig. Im not 100% happy with it but functions, just isn't pretty.



I fed the trans harness up through the column and drilled a small hole in the column to run it through.



I took the stock harness for the shifters and modified it and used a connector from work to connect everything. Its not completely hidden but you can't see it unless you look under the steering wheel.



Finished everything this morning. Pretty stoked about how it turned out. I have like $35 invested in this modification.

I got to drive it tonight. Now I read from HGM that these transmissions can't engine brake electronically. I wasn't sure exactly how that would work. So I took it out and manually shifted it up through the gears. I love how the trans works when your manually upshifting. Now the downside is like I said when you click it down it wont jump the RPM's up like it would if you pull it down with the column shifter. It feels sorta like its in neutral when you shift it down and get back on the gas. I'm not exactly sure whats happening. I only put a few miles on it. So that stinks but Ill take what I can get with a junkyard trans and a $35 shifter mod. If I figure out more with it, Ill update.



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Old 11-08-2018, 08:31 AM   #142
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Re: '78 K20 to C10. Almost 20 years in the making.

I had to do the same thing with my sniper and the throttle arm extension. So much better to drive and such a small amount to raise it made a huge difference.

The shifter paddles are a pretty cool mod man. Looks nice....
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