Polisher and compound advice needed

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Im about to begin painting sealer coat, then base and clear and had thought ahead to the wet sand and polishing stage. I have these items I used on a paint job (it was the rustoluem roll on deal-never again) and it did ok to my untrained eye..but I was curious if I need something better. To cut through polyurethane clear is this Porter Cable going to work out? Also the Norton Ice system has me curious vs the Meguires stuff.

Also is there a grit thats the standard wet sand finish before using the polisher..3000?

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Attaching some pics of the equipment and products I last used, and a few panels Im working on

[skip99]

The porter is a random orbit, it not as aggressive as , say a makita 9207, i use the 9207 with the meguires and a red course pad, then a black pad with the lighter meguires and finish with the porter cable style, i use a flex...

[theastronaut]

You'll want a rotary buffer instead of that orbital for cutting urethane clear. The best combo I've used so far is a wool pad and Jescar Correcting Compound after sanding up to 2500 grit. The Norton, 3M, Meguiars, and other compounds I've used before weren't even close to as good as Jescar. It also leave a really nice finish with minimal swirl marks; your orbital with a finishing pad and finishing polish in your picture will work to remove those.

[msg]

Originally Posted by skip99

The porter is a random orbit, it not as aggressive as , say a makita 9207, i use the 9207 with the meguires and a red course pad, then a black pad with the lighter meguires and finish with the porter cable style, i use a flex...

Thanks Skip, I had decent success with the 2 compounds from Meguires on that rustoleum job. Im guessing with a clear coat vs just the enamel that it would look even better.

Originally Posted by theastronaut

You'll want a rotary buffer instead of that orbital for cutting urethane clear. The best combo I've used so far is a wool pad and Jescar Correcting Compound after sanding up to 2500 grit. The Norton, 3M, Meguiars, and other compounds I've used before weren't even close to as good as Jescar. It also leave a really nice finish with minimal swirl marks; your orbital with a finishing pad and finishing polish in your picture will work to remove those.

Astronaut I have been constantly going back to your build here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=464091&page=2

Thats where I got the Norton bug. I may have slipped up though now that you are backing the Jescar. I spent $150 at Eastwoods site on their Norton Kit that had all of what would be needed...minus the rotary. I guess I could return it.

I also am rolling the dice on this HF rotary
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-1...her-62297.html

Would it be ok for whats needed or am I kidding myself?

[Stormin08]

i would caution the use of rotary if not seasoned with it,,,you will burn through real quick.

use the PC 7424 you have, always start with less...work your way into more aggressive.

mark your pad so you can see rotation and let the compound of choice do the work.

also, if this is a somewhat daily driver, a little orange peel is better...it aids in a slight UV protective factor, and allows material for future polishing. every time you polish with anything, you remove material.

[theastronaut]

An orbital won't leave as clear of a finish as a rotary, orbitals can leave a "grainy" look to the surface of the paint if cutting with one. A rotary with a wool pad will leave the clearest cut, especially if you bias pressure on an area of the pad that is running perpendicular to the sanding scratches, then bias pressure to the opposite side of the pad so the pad is still running perpendicular to the sanding scratches but in the other direction. Same idea as cross hatch sanding, just with the buffing pad instead of sandpaper.

Don't run a rotary at full speed and don't apply enough pressure for it to build heat and you'll be ok. Shoot 4 coats of clear and you'll have enough to sand and polish without burning through and still have adequate UV protection. If you're new to a rotary for buffing after wetsanding then spray an extra door or fender and practice on it using the same materials and techniques you're using to paint the rest of the truck. Burn through some spots on purpose just to see what it takes to burn through, both on flat areas and body lines/edges. You'll know what not to do that way on the important parts.

Norton is a good system and comes with everything you'll need especially if the clear you use is a softer paint once cured. I used it on Spies Hecker clear that was hard as concrete when dry and Norton compound was aggressive enough to cut it.

[msg]

Originally Posted by Stormin08

i would caution the use of rotary if not seasoned with it,,,you will burn through real quick.

use the PC 7424 you have, always start with less...work your way into more aggressive.

mark your pad so you can see rotation and let the compound of choice do the work.

also, if this is a somewhat daily driver, a little orange peel is better...it aids in a slight UV protective factor, and allows material for future polishing. every time you polish with anything, you remove material.

Always best to be cautious, I wished I could get a good clear finish with what I had. Practicing on a test panel makes sense first as the Astronaut mentioned below. Ill give it a try.

On the UV protection, I did also wonder about act of polishing and how much protection I would be removing.

Originally Posted by theastronaut

A rotary with a wool pad will leave the clearest cut, especially if you bias pressure on an area of the pad that is running perpendicular to the sanding scratches, then bias pressure to the opposite side of the pad so the pad is still running perpendicular to the sanding scratches but in the other direction. Same idea as cross hatch sanding, just with the buffing pad instead of sandpaper.

I think i understand, your saying with the wool pad dont just apply pressure to the center but left and right of the pad?

Shoot 4 coats of clear and you'll have enough to sand and polish without burning through and still have adequate UV protection.

I am using SPI universal clear coat and the plan was to spray 2-3 coats and let it set a few days and then wet sand up to 800 and spray 2-3 more coats and then wet sand at 1500 and start the polishing. I did watch a video where the comment was made that during the clear coats out gassing and settling that the the strength of the UV protection was in the top layer. By wetsanding and polishing that it does diminish the UV protection. Im planning to wetsand and polish cause I am pretty sure there will be some stuff I dont want tin my clear since Im new and also since its being painted panel by panel in a single car garage that I try to keep clean but doubtful the trash will be non existent.

If you're new to a rotary for buffing after wetsanding then spray an extra door or fender and practice on it using the same materials and techniques you're using to paint the rest of the truck. Burn through some spots on purpose just to see what it takes to burn through, both on flat areas and body lines/edges. You'll know what not to do that way on the important parts.

Ill shoot a spare door panel I have and test.

Norton is a good system and comes with everything you'll need especially if the clear you use is a softer paint once cured. I used it on Spies Hecker clear that was hard as concrete when dry and Norton compound was aggressive enough to cut it.

Is it cheaper than $150 to get what I would need you think for the Jesco approach? If so, what all would I need? Or should I keep the Norton?

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

An orbital won't leave as clear of a finish as a rotary, orbitals can leave a "grainy" look to the surface of the paint if cutting with one. A rotary with a wool pad will leave the clearest cut, especially if you bias pressure on an area of the pad that is running perpendicular to the sanding scratches, then bias pressure to the opposite side of the pad so the pad is still running perpendicular to the sanding scratches but in the other direction. Same idea as cross hatch sanding, just with the buffing pad instead of sandpaper.

Don't run a rotary at full speed and don't apply enough pressure for it to build heat and you'll be ok. Shoot 4 coats of clear and you'll have enough to sand and polish without burning through and still have adequate UV protection. If you're new to a rotary for buffing after wetsanding then spray an extra door or fender and practice on it using the same materials and techniques you're using to paint the rest of the truck. Burn through some spots on purpose just to see what it takes to burn through, both on flat areas and body lines/edges. You'll know what not to do that way on the important parts.

Norton is a good system and comes with everything you'll need especially if the clear you use is a softer paint once cured. I used it on Spies Hecker clear that was hard as concrete when dry and Norton compound was aggressive enough to cut it.

Spies Hecker that’s good paint we used it a lot when I worked for a guy who restored old jaguars but single stage