AWD c10

[NurseBen]

I have been looking to do a 5.3/4l60 swap in my '69 c10 for quite some time. I recently purchased a 2011 GMC Savana AWD that runs great for the price of a junkyard 5.3 vortec. I have seen a post where an AWD transmission was used with a rwd tail shaft so I figured I'd give it a shot. The more I look at this AWD machine I can't help but wonder how hard would a body swap be, even though every thread about a body swap is usually not met with open arms. So on to my questions; the wheel base of the van is about 8" longer, I'd like to use my c10 trailing arms with my bags, cut the leaf springs out and fab up some mounts. Sounds somewhat reasonable? The track width on the van is about 5" wider, I would like to run Mob Steel 20" rims which appear to have a positive back spacing, tuck in the fender more? For the front suspension I am finding tons of drop control arms and knuckles from various companies, DMJ?, but no clear cut answer if these parts, usually for Denalis, Sierras, (AWD) will be compatible with the 1500 6 lug AWD van. I have seen 6" drop control arms and 2" knuckles, any one have experience with these? My truck now is 5" front with c-notch and bags, if this pipe dream is possible I'd like to go this low. Any help and positive advice would be helpful. On a side note I did recently see an owner in Puerto Rico? do something like this but it looks like he cut up a suburban and welded to his frame.
Thank you, Ben.

[pickup67man]

I bought an AWD Savana at an auction to try a frame swap. Shortened the frame to match my suburban wheelbase. It's not fitting very well.

Here it is when I got it


Parted out what I didn't need and rolled the frame in the garage.


Removed the gas tank and a crossmember, marked to cut.


Cut the frame to shorted 8" to match suburban wheelbase.


Drilled holes to plug weld steel plates inside. Then welded it back together.






Rolled old frame out and slid the van frame under. The engine hit the firewall because the van engines are set back farther.





Removed the engine to position the frame far enough back.



Cut the motor mount stands off the frame and moved them forward 2 1/2" so engine would clear firewall.




After all that work I don't like how the suburban body sits on the frame. The bodymounts sit right above the frame and it is taller. That makes it hang out from under the body more than I like.




Does this help?

[NurseBen]

Some pics

[NurseBen]

More pics, I hope.

[NurseBen]

More

[BR3W CITY]

I wonder if something the the AWD Escalade would fit, seeing as it wouldn't have the engine setback like the vans.

[NurseBen]

Sorry it took me so long to see your reply, a couple of questions if you don't mind. How is the track width working out, have you been able to put the front clip on, and if so what does the intake manifold to hood clearance look like. I'm putting a c10 cab on and want it as low as possible so I've done a spring over for now with 3" drop arms and 2" drop knuckles up front. I've been thinking of channeling the cab to make up the difference of the huge frame, that would be very time consuming on a suburban, but I'm not sure if the hood would close over the manifold after lowering the front clip.

[NurseBen]

I think as far as the set back I'll be pushing it into the firewall a few inches.

[NurseBen]

Sorry for the thumb nails

[NurseBen]

This is my daughter and I tearing it up with heat on high.
But not sideways

[bbbc10]

I seen it done with a silverado ss chassis

[NurseBen]

Are you still working on this?

[chase@ridetech]

I would be interested in seeing how similar the dimensions are from the c-10 spindle and the van spindle are.

[NurseBen]

As far as the dimensions go I did MCG drop knuckles with new hubs. They are quite a bit larger and require a 17" rim as a minimum.

[NurseBen]

What's the latest? I'm working on some c notches and reusing my c10 trailing arms. Wire harness should be here soon, then fingers crossed.

[pickup67man]

I ended up removing the floor supports. They were right above the frame. I cut others from an old cab and positioned them inside the frame. I'm still working on the body mounts but I lowered the body down 2 1/2".

[pickup67man]

Hard to see but the floor is sitting right on the frame here.

[NurseBen]

That looks great! I've been kicking around the same idea with my cab. Here is a picture of my frame that I took from about 8" to 6" where the cab will sit.

[NurseBen]

Sorry for the sideways photos

[NurseBen]

[NurseBen]

[NurseBen]

The axle getting ready for the trailing arms.

[NurseBen]

Here is what's going on top.

[NurseBen]

Do you think you will have to raise the floor in order to clear the transmission and transfer case? I removed about 2" from the frame where the cab sits but would love to drop another 2" with removing and moving the cab supports inward. Do you know anything about the rack on the van vs an suv/truck? The angle of the shaft seems very steep with multiple nasty bends in order to make work. I believe I've read somewhere that the joint should not exceed 35*? Which in turn makes the van set up very tricky with such a short distance. Keep the updates coming. Ben

[pickup67man]

I need to put the engine/transmission/transfer case back in to check clearances before making the body mounts permanent. Then I will know how close everything is.
I keep buying insurance auction vehicles and flipping them. So I haven't worked in it for a few weeks.