C10 suspension rebuild

[GreyGhost85]

Good afternoon guys,

I’m rebuilding the suspension on my truck and was wondering the following:

1. Is there any drawbacks to soaking and cleaning/painting the existing control arms? Should I rebuild the bushings in the arm?

2. This truck appears to have been dropped with drop spindles but the springs appear to have been cut. Would replacing with drop spring be safe not knowing the original drop distance.

[GreyGhost85]

Pics

[Jason Banks]

I'm pretty sure there are not drop spindles available for drum brakes. Your truck was probably lowered just by cutting the springs.

Do you have any pictures or measurements of your ride height before disassembly?

[GreyGhost85]

Pics

[Jason Banks]

It doesn't look like you have more than a couple inches of drop in the front. If that. It coudln't hurt to get some 2 inch drop springs.

Since no one answered your first question.
1. Is there any drawbacks to soaking and cleaning/painting the existing control arms? Should I rebuild the bushings in the arm?

It's not a super easy job to replace the control arm shafts. What do you plan on soaking them in? If there is no play in them and the rubber bits are still intact I would probably just pressure wash everything and send it. Either way you will want to add some more grease. Soaking might be more gentle than pressure washing. I would however replace the ball joints. It appears you have original ones.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost85

1. Is there any drawbacks to soaking and cleaning/painting the existing control arms? Should I rebuild the bushings in the arm? No, no draw backs. It is recommended to clean them up and paint them while you have them out. Yes, you should definitely redo the bushings as well.

2. This truck appears to have been dropped with drop spindles but the springs appear to have been cut. Would replacing with drop spring be safe not knowing the original drop distance. You still have drums and they do not make drop spindles for them. Yes, it is safe to replace the springs with any drop.

I recommend going to Early Classic Enterprises to get your rebuild parts.

[68 P.O.S.]

Also, while you have it torn apart, upgrade the lower control arm u-bolts to the larger 9/16" bolts for safety. The original ones were 7/16" and had a penchant for snapping while reversing with the wheel cranked all the way in either direction. Dorman 13503 is what you're after. You'll probably have to run a 9/16" drill bit through the holes to open 'em up a little for the bolts.

[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

Also, while you have it torn apart, upgrade the lower control arm u-bolts to the larger 9/16" bolts for safety. The original ones were 7/16" and had a penchant for snapping while reversing with the wheel cranked all the way in either direction. Dorman 13503 is what you're after. You'll probably have to run a 9/16" drill bit through the holes to open 'em up a little for the bolts.

Awesome info. I’m going to see what the suspension parts look like after pressure washing them. I’ve been trying to decide purchasing new control arms vs rebuilding but haven’t made up my mind.
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[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

It doesn't look like you have more than a couple inches of drop in the front. If that. It coudln't hurt to get some 2 inch drop springs.

Since no one answered your first question.
1. Is there any drawbacks to soaking and cleaning/painting the existing control arms? Should I rebuild the bushings in the arm?

It's not a super easy job to replace the control arm shafts. What do you plan on soaking them in? If there is no play in them and the rubber bits are still intact I would probably just pressure wash everything and send it. Either way you will want to add some more grease. Soaking might be more gentle than pressure washing. I would however replace the ball joints. It appears you have original ones.

So is there anyway to figure out what ball joints I need?? I know this seems like a silly question but here’s my logic.

I have drums all the way around, 1971 c10s apparently had disc brakes up front. From what I’ve researched disc spindle ball joints will not work with drum spindle balls joints. So I’m thinking that I should order some 1970 ball joints upper and lower. Also I’m thinking I should go with the same truck year for steering and tie rods etc.... let me know what you think? It was pretty easy getting the control arms apart thanks to a large breaker bar, air hammer, impact wrench. Control arms are soaking in purple power.
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[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

I recommend going to Early Classic Enterprises to get your rebuild parts.

Maybe you ha e some insight as well... should I order 1970 ball joints instead of 1971 because I have drum spindles??
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[Jason Banks]

You are correct. Do not get 1971 ball joints. Is your truck a 71? Order everything based off 67-70 parts.

[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

You are correct. Do not get 1971 ball joints. Is your truck a 71? Order everything based off 67-70 parts.

Yea it is a 1971 with drums up front. When I changed all my wheel cylinders I had to order parts for 1970 since that model had drums. I also have a very weird 10 bolt rear end from a 65 and it was a pain to find parts for. I’ll order all 1970s parts. Would my pitman arm need to be changed if I’m upgrading to power steering as well?
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[Jason Banks]

Yes, get a new pitman arm for power steering. They are different from manual steering.

I read what you said about it being pretty easy to get things apart. For me the hardest part was getting the new control arm shafts tightened down. I was also trying to hold them without messing up the paint I had just put on them.

[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Yes, get a new pitman arm for power steering. They are different from manual steering.

I read what you said about it being pretty easy to get things apart. For me the hardest part was getting the new control arm shafts tightened down. I was also trying to hold them without messing up the paint I had just put on them.

For that reason I’m abandoning the powder coat lol and going por chasis coat.
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[Jason Banks]

I don't powdercoat anything for my trucks anymore. It is just too hard to touch up. I'd end up painting over it anyway. Here's how mine looks now

[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

I don't powdercoat anything for my trucks anymore. It is just too hard to touch up. I'd end up painting over it anyway. Here's how mine looks now

Nice and clean! Semi gloss?
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[Jason Banks]

It is this: https://medallionrefinish.com/produc...rylic-urethane

So I guess it's satin.

I usually use Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy primer and then topcoat with the Medallion MRS-4200

That paint goes on beautiful and smooths out like nothing I have seen.

[GreyGhost85]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

It is this: https://medallionrefinish.com/produc...rylic-urethane

So I guess it's satin.

I usually use Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy primer and then topcoat with the Medallion MRS-4200

Another question for the power steering arm, i heard that last swap power steering pump can be made to work with 67-72 power steering gear box. If so I should just go ahead and order a power steering box for 67-72 Chevy?
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[GreyGhost85]

Getting everything cleaned up and got the control arms coated with kgb. Order all new suspension parts, power steering gear and all steering components. Will try to post and document process on this thread.
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[GreyGhost85]

Got most of the parts and lowering springs,drop shocks, and a lares power steering gear for 1970 c10. I also grabbed those upgraded ubilts that were recommended. Hopefully the reassembly goes somewhat smooth.