replacing frame rivets

[72c10projectc]

Is it safe to just replace them with grade 8 bolts?
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[brans72]

Yes your safe using Grade 8 bolts. Brandon

[72c10projectc]

Thank you do you think its a good idea to use lock washers as well as thread locker?
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[RenoKeene]

Grade 8, lock washers and a bit of lock tite if it makes you feel good.
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[hugger6933]

If you have a welder I like to spot the nutto the bolt just enough to make double sure it all stays together. I have done it several times replacing spring hangars and such and have never had a problem with that method. I guess you are replacing a rear crossmember? Jim

[SS Tim]

Sorry, But the question begs, Do you have any manuals at all for your truck? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556578

In answer to your question yes you can replace rivets with bolts in the frame per the Chevrolet Chassis overhaul manual. The problem is that the bolts are not a direct replacement. The bolts need to be a very tight fit in a reamed hole vs a conventional bolt application clearance. This will then give you close to a rivets load capacity. So size up from the rivet and ream.

[midniteblues]

I have found that a 7/16 tap ran through the rivit holes seems too work ok(not great but ok) for pulling the metal together.
then useing 1"x 7/16 grade 8 bolts with nuts and washers they then can be torqued too 70-75 ft.#s. a tack weld on the nut will hold it there for good.

[Duncan and son]

Good answers but what can be done if you want rivets for looks and correctness

[SS Tim]

You are going to need a BIG riveter! Good question and I will have to talk with a couple of ME's for ideas at a shop level.

[desertnick69]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Sorry, But the question begs, Do you have any manuals at all for your truck? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556578

In answer to your question yes you can replace rivets with bolts in the frame per the Chevrolet Chassis overhaul manual. The problem is that the bolts are not a direct replacement. The bolts need to be a very tight fit in a reamed hole vs a conventional bolt application clearance. This will then give you close to a rivets load capacity. So size up from the rivet and ream.

I am swapping the rear suspension from leaf to coil so i have (1969 C-20 just for the stiffingers on both sides) there is 18 per side not including the crossmembers. So I looked in to this and i am going to be replacing the rivets w/gd 8 bolt The hole is appox 27/64 = .422 but they are not perfect so after the revits are out i drill with 27/64 then i had an 11 mm reamer ground to .431. the head of the bolt you have to tap into the hole so they are a "snug fit". Should be good at this when done atleast 70 rivet to replace. Good luck

[Keith Seymore]

Joining late but I was a production supervisor on the chassis line at Flint Assembly; a 3/8" bolt was the factory repair for a mis-hit or missing rivet.

When I followed my '87 pickup down the line as it was being built I tried to convince the guys to use all bolts instead of rivets on the spring hangers, since I knew I would be lowering my truck by relocating the spring hangers.

They wouldn't do it...



K

[eagleuh1]

They sell the tool and the rivet blanks, just don't remember where. Seem to remember a guy called the "Rivetman" from somewhere. Good luck, Jim

[Duncan and son]

Hey Tim and Jim thanks for the info. Between the three of us and anybody else that is has information or is interested I would like more information because Jason's truck has driver side rear tailpipe bracket riveted on and the passenger side bolted on (which appears to be correct and original for 72 some BB trucks). Even though some trucks came like that I would rather have it riveted on.
Thanks again Paul

[67c10rustbuket]

Here are a couple places to get them. I read else where there is a special too to clamp them in place and you torch them red hot and pound the end with a special concave anvil on an airchisel. There is a build thread on here where a guy used some on his truck. He cut and stretched the rear frame upwards and mad new bed mounts and it looked like a production frame. anyone know which build that is??

http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/install.html

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Sol...U12?Pid=search

(i dont know what size this is just a sample)

[67c10rustbuket]

instructions

[72c10projectc]

Yea I got rust so I wanted to take some crossmembers off and fix them
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[SS Tim]

Fun reading.
http://www.ballardforge.com/web/rivets.html

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...9-Hot-riveting

This might just be the best way to coldset them. Until I talk to someone the idea of just heating and pounding a truck chassis rivet seems shall we say... crude. Besides this would be just plain cool to have.
http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/industr...-frame-presses

[midniteblues]

tim,
those links rock that wAs some cool reading.
the ballerd forge site was the coolest one has too admit that the rivit look is the way to go if your going for the authentic/decortive/proper look.

too the op,
if your pulling rivits do yourself a favor and only remove the rivits that are absolutly nesssary if you see no rust build up between the parts LEAVE THEM BE most of those peices are so tight that water/rust couldnt build up between them.

most of the trucks i see should have the upper spring pads in the rear pulled there usually a good amount of scale between them and the frame(around here anyway) also the trailing arms are ususally good idea too be split open but those are not rivits there spot welds

[roxxx]

Some tools for the job
http://www.gagebilt.com
http://www.bylerrivet.com
There is a You tube vid of some guys riveting the frame they made a slick tool to do it