Best Approach for removing a 283 with tranny

[daveshilling]

What is the smartest way to disconnect the engine/tranny from the driveshaft and remove both using an engine hoist? I'll be swapping from my original 1958 283 to a 64 283 with side engine mounts and most likely a 700r4, and I need to get the current setup removed.

I don't have a fancy lift and the cab is staying on, so I need to know what makes the most sense for a dirty old truck.

If any of you gents can explain it like I'm an idiot, it would be much appreciated!

[mr48chev]

I'd pull the driveshaft out, pull the trans out and then unbolt the mounts on the bellhousing and at the front and pull the engine and bellhousing.

The way your question was worded rather makes me want to think that you don't have a lot of experience working on your truck. Don't take that wrong but there are few vehicles that are easier to work on than stock TF trucks or slightly modified TF trucks.

The driveshaft comes out with taking the 4 bolts/ or nuts off at the rear U joint and slipping the driveshaft out of the trans.

It's not a bad idea to stick a pan under the trans and pull the drain plug and drain the gear oil out of the trans before you pull it no matter if you pull it out of the bellhousing or pull it with the engine. Saves cleaning up 90 wt gear oil off the floor and what ever.

If it is a 3 speed you pull the shift linkage and take the 4 bolts out that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Trans weighs about 60 lbs so be careful as they hurt when they drop on top of you. on a granny 4 speed you have to pull the shifter out and pull the cover over the trans out.

The real issue with pulling or installing an engine with the trans attatched on one of these trucks is that you have to get the engine and trans at a pretty steep angle to get them out or in if the nose is on the truck. A cherry picker engine hoist might not lift it high enough and if you have a low roof in the garage you may not be able to lift it high enough. If you have the nose off life just got real easy as you don't have to lift it high nor do you have to tilt it to get the trans out.

Going back in the crossmember that goes under the bellhousing is going to be in the way with the automatic. Guys remove them all the time but it does take some of the strength out of the frame in that area and I would do something to put some strength back in it.

[whitedog76]

I'm going to assume, you at least have a cherry picker or A frame hoist?

Go down to Harbor Freight, Farm & Fleet, Tractor Supply, or whatever you may have and buy an Engine leveler that you use with a cherry picker. Get some long bolts and washers that you can use to attach the engine leveler to.

Unbolt the U joint on the trans, remove the bolts from the center crossmember.

Hook up cherry picker and engine leveler, and pull her out.

My next suggestion will be to bolt up your "old" bellhousing to your "new" 283 and put it in the truck so you can get a location for your side motor mounts.

For a visual.

We pulled this Fireball 8 out of a Buick in a gravel driveway, while it was hooked to wrecker. Same method

Oh yeah, have a couple buddies there to help.

If you don't have a cherry picker, most tool places will rent them.

[mr48chev]

HF has those engine levelers on for 29.99 if you have an inside track club membership.

Handy and I think I'll pick one up but they do take up that much additional lifting height if your lifting height is tight.
Saves hunting down a helper to stand on the back of the trans to get it to clear the firewall though.

[dsraven]

-first ensure you are using all personal protective equipment required. safety glasses, gloves etc. have a fire extinguisher handy because you will be working with raw fuel at some point. it may be a good idea to keep all the fasteners in a labeled sandwich bag as you go, or simply screw them back into the spot they came from so they don't get lost or mixed up as to where they came from or what hole they were supposed to go into etc. take pics as you go if you think it may help you upon assembly
-block rear wheels on the front and rear side so vehicle cannot move forward or backward. set park brake
-disconnect battery
-raise and block (jack stands) front end if needed to access under side easily
-drain trans and install/torque plug after
-remove driveshaft, tape u joints after so the bearing caps can't fall off
-drain engine oil but leave the filter on so it doesn't drip
-remove wiring from under side of engine. battery ground wire, block heater, starter wiring etc. tie back out of the way. label wiring as required
-drain coolant from rad. remove the cap to allow easy air entry to system
-drain engine block of coolant by removing the block drains located on each side. install after drained to keep mess minimal
-disconnect fuel line from fuel pump, plug line and fuel pump inlet, tie back the hose so it is out of the way
-disconnect any exhaust system and tie back out of the way
-remove transmission. if column shift tie the linkage out of the way. if floor shift remove the stick first, plug shifter hole with rag to keep debris out. after trans is removed install the shifter again
-loosen/remove the bell housing to cross member bolts
-remove front wheels and lower the front of the truck as far as possible but leave room under the axle for the engine lift to slide under. use sturdy blocks, not cinder blocks as they are known to crumble. some short jack stands would be best
-remove the hood. mark the hinges so you can get it back in the same place upon assembly
-remove all coolant hoses from engine. tie back the heater hoses against the inner fenders so they are out of the way. if plan is to replace these hoses simply remove them now
-remove the engine fan shroud (if equipped)
-place protective cardboard over the rad core on the fan side of the rad
- remove the engine fan and spacer (if equipped). keep all the bolts with the fan or label for ease of assembly later
-remove the rad and place out of the way. may be a good idea to cover the other side of the rad core now as well. pug the inlet and outlet hoses
-disconnect any wiring connected to the top side of the engine and tie back. label wiring as required
-remove the engine air filter and cover the carb to keep debris out. remove the accelerator linkage, hand throttle linkage, choke linkage etc. tie back out of the way. removing the carb is also an option but remember to keep it level at all times so fuel will not run out and also so any debris in the bottom of the carb will not get sloshed around and find a fuel passage to plug. cover the area under the carb after removing the carb, if this is the case. I like to place the carb in a plastic bag after removal just to keep any leaks contained and also to keep the carb as clean as possible
-remove all the engine accessories, alternator/generator etc, if you will possibly be using the same ones on the new engine. remove the power steering pump and tie back (if equipped). check for a mechanical engine oil pressure tube or an engine temp tube
-at this point some will remove all the spark plug wires and exhaust manifolds for ease of engine removal. this removal can be done now if your plan is to remove the parts anyway for use on the new engine. if your cylinder heads have no threaded holes you can use the intake or exhaust manifold bolt holes for your engine lift set up, just ensure the bolts thread into the holes far enough to hold the weight.
-attach the lifting device, chains, leveling bar or whatever your plan is. try to keep this part as short as possible because your engine lift may run out of "lift" before the engine makes it over the top of the rad support (the reason why the front wheels are removed). it is nice to have some sort of swivel built in to the lifting apparatus to allow the engine to turn some. also, decide which way will be best to point the hook on the engine lift. sometimes that can make a difference in tight quarters or if your lift runs out of "down" before the engine is fully "down" on the old tire, engine stand or floor
-bring the engine lift in and connect to the lifting device with the boom of the lift set as low as possible so you will achieve max lift. a quick check of max lift is sometimes a good idea because you need to clear the rad support but also need to lower the engine to the floor, engine stand or old tire or whatever
-put some strain on the lift to take the weight of the engine off the mounts
-unbolt the engine mounts
-clear the area directly in front of the truck so there is ample room to move the engine lift forward. an old tire is a common thing to have laying close by for letting the engine down onto once removed from the truck
-the engine is technically free of the frame and the only thing holding now is the engine lift. do a quick perimeter check to ensure there is nothing still connected to the engine and the truck. look for extra ground straps etc.
-jack the engine up and watch to ensure everything is disconnected as you lift it up and out over the rad support. beware that the engine is heavy on the back side with the weight of the bell housing. this is important to note if your lifting mechanism allows any slippage that could let the engine slide through, say, a lifting eye or the like. some adjusting may be required (that is the reason a lot of guys like the leveling bar). the other option is to remove the bell housing from the engine once it is clear of the trans cross member. starter removal may be required for this so if that is the plan you may want to remove the starter and familiarize yourself with the position of each bell housing bolt before starting to lift the engine. a pry bar may be required to separate the two parts, there is a large dowel on each side that can be sticky
-once the engine gets high enough to clear the rad support beware that the lift will become top heavy so moving the lift should be a slow process. fast movements will cause the engine to swing and may damage items it comes into contact with. I have seen many dented firewalls from this scenario
-lower the engine right away after it is clear of the truck to minimize the risk that the engine lift will topple or the engine will fall due to broken lift devices.

not a complete list but maybe a good start I think. remember, never get under the engine while it is on the lift. don't get your hands, fingers or other body parts between the engine and the truck. have a buddy along for help and just to keep an eye out for things you may not see.
if you plan on doing other stuff with the truck while it is apart you may consider taking the whole front clip off for engine removal. that is only if your plan includes work in that area that would normally need the clip removed and the bolts aren't seized/rusted etc. it could quickly become a can of worms otherwise

[mr48chev]

There you go the step by step instruction set and a bow down to Dsraven.

I actually did go up an buy one of the HF engine lift/tilt units this afternoon which Jean gave her ok to so she hopefully doesn't have to work the chain hoist or cherry picker while I stand on a trans to get it to tilt down enough to pull the engine and trans.

When you have been married to a hot rod/truck guy for 48 years you get used to being drug out to the garage to help but it all doesn't come willingly.

[_Ogre]

there's a reason we were called shadetree mechanics back in the day
work in the shade of a tree and use a sturdy limb to pull an engine

[mr48chev]

Been there, done that. I saw the aftermath of a guy trying it with a tree that wasn't strong enough one day. He got the engine up out of the engine bay and the branch broke dropping the engine on the core support and grill and the branch smashed the fenders.

You see a lot of bent swing sets in this area that guys tried to use to pull engines too. Mad kids at those houses.

[dsraven]

you can usually rent an engine lift pretty cheap, better than buying and having to store it. the other option is to buy used and sell when done.
yup, I have also used whatever was laying around. a fence post spanning the roof trusses to spread the weight then some chain dangles below that connected to an el cheapo deluxe cable hoist. winch it out, roll the car back out of the way, winch it down, muscle it around. I even removed/installed a 4.3 v6 chevy from an astro van from underneath with no lift. removed the top end and trans first, muscled the short block out myself. not doing that again.
good luck, post pics.

[whitedog76]

Here’s an alternate method.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=feeFmQ8RPcU

[whitedog76]

The real method. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dLStucy0Rlw

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

-first ensure you are using all personal protective equipment required. safety glasses, gloves etc. have a fire extinguisher handy because you will be working with raw fuel at some point. it may be a good idea to keep all the fasteners in a labeled sandwich bag as you go, or simply screw them back into the spot they came from so they don't get lost or mixed up as to where they came from or what hole they were supposed to go into etc. take pics as you go if you think it may help you upon assembly
-block rear wheels on the front and rear side so vehicle cannot move forward or backward. set park brake
-disconnect battery
-raise and block (jack stands) front end if needed to access under side easily
-drain trans and install/torque plug after
-remove driveshaft, tape u joints after so the bearing caps can't fall off
-drain engine oil but leave the filter on so it doesn't drip
-remove wiring from under side of engine. battery ground wire, block heater, starter wiring etc. tie back out of the way. label wiring as required
-drain coolant from rad. remove the cap to allow easy air entry to system
-drain engine block of coolant by removing the block drains located on each side. install after drained to keep mess minimal
-disconnect fuel line from fuel pump, plug line and fuel pump inlet, tie back the hose so it is out of the way
-disconnect any exhaust system and tie back out of the way
-remove transmission. if column shift tie the linkage out of the way. if floor shift remove the stick first, plug shifter hole with rag to keep debris out. after trans is removed install the shifter again
-loosen/remove the bell housing to cross member bolts
-remove front wheels and lower the front of the truck as far as possible but leave room under the axle for the engine lift to slide under. use sturdy blocks, not cinder blocks as they are known to crumble. some short jack stands would be best
-remove the hood. mark the hinges so you can get it back in the same place upon assembly
-remove all coolant hoses from engine. tie back the heater hoses against the inner fenders so they are out of the way. if plan is to replace these hoses simply remove them now
-remove the engine fan shroud (if equipped)
-place protective cardboard over the rad core on the fan side of the rad
- remove the engine fan and spacer (if equipped). keep all the bolts with the fan or label for ease of assembly later
-remove the rad and place out of the way. may be a good idea to cover the other side of the rad core now as well. pug the inlet and outlet hoses
-disconnect any wiring connected to the top side of the engine and tie back. label wiring as required
-remove the engine air filter and cover the carb to keep debris out. remove the accelerator linkage, hand throttle linkage, choke linkage etc. tie back out of the way. removing the carb is also an option but remember to keep it level at all times so fuel will not run out and also so any debris in the bottom of the carb will not get sloshed around and find a fuel passage to plug. cover the area under the carb after removing the carb, if this is the case. I like to place the carb in a plastic bag after removal just to keep any leaks contained and also to keep the carb as clean as possible
-remove all the engine accessories, alternator/generator etc, if you will possibly be using the same ones on the new engine. remove the power steering pump and tie back (if equipped). check for a mechanical engine oil pressure tube or an engine temp tube
-at this point some will remove all the spark plug wires and exhaust manifolds for ease of engine removal. this removal can be done now if your plan is to remove the parts anyway for use on the new engine. if your cylinder heads have no threaded holes you can use the intake or exhaust manifold bolt holes for your engine lift set up, just ensure the bolts thread into the holes far enough to hold the weight.
-attach the lifting device, chains, leveling bar or whatever your plan is. try to keep this part as short as possible because your engine lift may run out of "lift" before the engine makes it over the top of the rad support (the reason why the front wheels are removed). it is nice to have some sort of swivel built in to the lifting apparatus to allow the engine to turn some. also, decide which way will be best to point the hook on the engine lift. sometimes that can make a difference in tight quarters or if your lift runs out of "down" before the engine is fully "down" on the old tire, engine stand or floor
-bring the engine lift in and connect to the lifting device with the boom of the lift set as low as possible so you will achieve max lift. a quick check of max lift is sometimes a good idea because you need to clear the rad support but also need to lower the engine to the floor, engine stand or old tire or whatever
-put some strain on the lift to take the weight of the engine off the mounts
-unbolt the engine mounts
-clear the area directly in front of the truck so there is ample room to move the engine lift forward. an old tire is a common thing to have laying close by for letting the engine down onto once removed from the truck
-the engine is technically free of the frame and the only thing holding now is the engine lift. do a quick perimeter check to ensure there is nothing still connected to the engine and the truck. look for extra ground straps etc.
-jack the engine up and watch to ensure everything is disconnected as you lift it up and out over the rad support. beware that the engine is heavy on the back side with the weight of the bell housing. this is important to note if your lifting mechanism allows any slippage that could let the engine slide through, say, a lifting eye or the like. some adjusting may be required (that is the reason a lot of guys like the leveling bar). the other option is to remove the bell housing from the engine once it is clear of the trans cross member. starter removal may be required for this so if that is the plan you may want to remove the starter and familiarize yourself with the position of each bell housing bolt before starting to lift the engine. a pry bar may be required to separate the two parts, there is a large dowel on each side that can be sticky
-once the engine gets high enough to clear the rad support beware that the lift will become top heavy so moving the lift should be a slow process. fast movements will cause the engine to swing and may damage items it comes into contact with. I have seen many dented firewalls from this scenario
-lower the engine right away after it is clear of the truck to minimize the risk that the engine lift will topple or the engine will fall due to broken lift devices.

not a complete list but maybe a good start I think. remember, never get under the engine while it is on the lift. don't get your hands, fingers or other body parts between the engine and the truck. have a buddy along for help and just to keep an eye out for things you may not see.
if you plan on doing other stuff with the truck while it is apart you may consider taking the whole front clip off for engine removal. that is only if your plan includes work in that area that would normally need the clip removed and the bolts aren't seized/rusted etc. it could quickly become a can of worms otherwise

HOLY **** THIS IS FANTASTIC. Someone, please store this in a tutorial section. You really broke it down, thank you.

And thanks to all who replied and chipped in your knowledge! I have so many trucks to fall in love with before I'm dead...I'll get good at this.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd pull the driveshaft out, pull the trans out and then unbolt the mounts on the bellhousing and at the front and pull the engine and bellhousing.

The way your question was worded rather makes me want to think that you don't have a lot of experience working on your truck. Don't take that wrong but there are few vehicles that are easier to work on than stock TF trucks or slightly modified TF trucks.

The driveshaft comes out with taking the 4 bolts/ or nuts off at the rear U joint and slipping the driveshaft out of the trans.

It's not a bad idea to stick a pan under the trans and pull the drain plug and drain the gear oil out of the trans before you pull it no matter if you pull it out of the bellhousing or pull it with the engine. Saves cleaning up 90 wt gear oil off the floor and what ever.

If it is a 3 speed you pull the shift linkage and take the 4 bolts out that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Trans weighs about 60 lbs so be careful as they hurt when they drop on top of you. on a granny 4 speed you have to pull the shifter out and pull the cover over the trans out.

The real issue with pulling or installing an engine with the trans attatched on one of these trucks is that you have to get the engine and trans at a pretty steep angle to get them out or in if the nose is on the truck. A cherry picker engine hoist might not lift it high enough and if you have a low roof in the garage you may not be able to lift it high enough. If you have the nose off life just got real easy as you don't have to lift it high nor do you have to tilt it to get the trans out.

Going back in the crossmember that goes under the bellhousing is going to be in the way with the automatic. Guys remove them all the time but it does take some of the strength out of the frame in that area and I would do something to put some strength back in it.

Thanks for the short order, so driveshaft > tranny > unbolt bellhousing mounts, pull engine and bellhousing. Seems like I would have a transmission just hanging out underneath the truck. Since I do have the nose off already, would pulling the engine and tranny together be faster or is there still some hidden complication?

[whitedog76]

Assuming you have a manual transmission... I would separate the transmission from the bellhousing. Disconnect the driveshaft first. If you have a 3 speed, the linkages will need unhooked. If you have a 4 speed, the shifter will need to come out. There's 4 bolts holding the trans to the bell, undo them, pull it out. A 3 speed you can probably manhandle yourself, a 4 speed you may want to have a jack under it and an extra set of hands to balance it.

[washington blue]

I notice that you mentioned possibly running a 700r4 behind a 283. Be sure to do lots of research on gearing for that transmission before you buy one. Think about where and how you drive most of the time. 283s love to run fast, 2300 on up, any slower than that and it will not be happy. You will not wear out your engine or ruin your gas mileage running 23-2600 rpm on a long trip with a 283. Best of luck on your swap.

[Coupeguy2001]

Yea, on the 283, and a 700R4, the first gear is 3.07:1, and with a 4.11 rear, the first gear will snap your neck every time. then second gear is so far away from first gear, it bogs the engine. Also, you have to manufacture some sort of adapter for the TV cable.
Maybe it will work, but you will be better off with a 305, 327, 301, 350.
And you can still use your original engine mounts or side mounts.
And I have a 327 and a 350 for sale.
hint hint

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

Yea, on the 283, and a 700R4, the first gear is 3.07:1, and with a 4.11 rear, the first gear will snap your neck every time. then second gear is so far away from first gear, it bogs the engine. Also, you have to manufacture some sort of adapter for the TV cable.
Maybe it will work, but you will be better off with a 305, 327, 301, 350.
And you can still use your original engine mounts or side mounts.
And I have a 327 and a 350 for sale.
hint hint

What about a 200r4? I just need a cruising automatic with overdrive.

[dsraven]

a very quick google search brought this up. prolly better stuff if you have time for a search
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/gear-ratios/

[washington blue]

Just wondering why you need an overdrive so bad? I can almost guarantee you that the 283 will hate the overdrive. I have a 700r4 in my model A and it weighs 2700 pounds and it has 4.11 rear gears and the over-drive 4th gear is useless unless I am driving 70mph or faster. I have a bigger engine with a cam and it does not run really well below 2200 rpm just like a 283 doesn't. You have points and a vacuum advance to consider and carb vacuum for flow and advance also. Most of these transmissions have a lock up torque converter and if you run the engine below lock up it makes a lot of heat. You are going to run Corvette suspension so why not spend 1500 bucks and get a 5.3 with matching trans and computer and gas pedal from a 2005 chevy pu, then just get the anti theft stuff off the computer and drive it, your gas mileage will be great, better performance too, good luck.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by washington blue

Just wondering why you need an overdrive so bad? I can almost guarantee you that the 283 will hate the overdrive. I have a 700r4 in my model A and it weighs 2700 pounds and it has 4.11 rear gears and the over-drive 4th gear is useless unless I am driving 70mph or faster. I have a bigger engine with a cam and it does not run really well below 2200 rpm just like a 283 doesn't. You have points and a vacuum advance to consider and carb vacuum for flow and advance also. Most of these transmissions have a lock up torque converter and if you run the engine below lock up it makes a lot of heat.

Researching the lock-up torque converter now, thanks for the direction there.

Based on the link DSRaven posted (thank you), you would recommend a TH350 instead? It seems like that would be much more difficult to locate considering the 2004r's are still kicking around in the local Pick n pulls... I could swap one out for $99 if it was no good. Used th350's on CL are already $400 for unkown condition...

So it sounds like the 283ci likes the th350/th400 and a 350ci would be better for the 2004r...so maybe I just need a 350.

Originally Posted by washington blue

You are going to run Corvette suspension so why not spend 1500 bucks and get a 5.3 with matching trans and computer and gas pedal from a 2005 chevy pu, then just get the anti theft stuff off the computer and drive it, your gas mileage will be great, better performance too, good luck.

honestly I was just trying to avoid spending that $1,500 on a crunchy old longbed truck... It always seems to snowball. Once I get the LS for $1,500, then I need to pay someone for an ECU tune, vette solenoid for the tranny, new wiring harness, better looking intake from a vette, etc. I'm sure I will reach $2,500 pretty fast. I can get a 2004r from a Pick n Pull yard for $130, and I have a $200 283 that ran when pulled (so I'm told), and after replacing pumps and belts and such I figured I'd be under $1,000.

That being said...

Delmo put a 5.3/4l603 in my Jackalope and I do love it.. its fast and starts right up. It's certainly enticing to have LS everything. Maybe with the support of this forum, I could install it myself, but its still a walletbuster. Is there is a go-to master LS install thread that everyone treats like the Bible?


Regarding the cheap engine in the pricey suspension...I'm going to run the C4 because its about the same price as a M2, and after a dropped axle and a disc brake conversion, it's not much more $ to just have a cool setup that works much better than a dropped axle. Believe it or not, it was the most economical option when all factors were considered. I'll be into it about $2,000 and stopping/turning in an emergency is somewhere I'm okay spending the $.


I clearly have a ton to learn, and I appreciate the time everyone has put in.

[washington blue]

I hope you have tons of success with you pickup and I just hate to be negative about anything and the only reason I even bring up not using an overdrive trans is because my A is similar weight to my 55 pickup and the small block chevy and overdrive trans has not worked out the best. It is the distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance and the Q-jet carb I have that do not like the overdrive. I have a Superbell axle and 70 mph is about as fast as I feel comfortable driving the A and the overdrive has the engine at about2200 rpm with 31 inch tires and it feels like the engine is chugging and lugging to move the non- aerodynamic A down the road, at 60 it is much worse. PS, I absolutely love 283s I have had them in everything under the sun from T buckets, 55 Chevys, Chevelles, Camaros even a mopar. I have 3 sitting in my shed right now for my wish list. Here is my A.

[dsraven]

you really gotta decide the tire size and final drive ratio to figure out the engine rpm at the speeds you like to drive. what type of driving do you do? city, highway, to the grocery store? what is your engine set up to do, best working rpm?

here is an rpm calculator that may help
https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

and a tire size comparison table
https://tiresize.com/comparison/

hope it helps

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by washington blue

I hope you have tons of success with you pickup and I just hate to be negative about anything and the only reason I even bring up not using an overdrive trans is because my A is similar weight to my 55 pickup and the small block chevy and overdrive trans has not worked out the best. It is the distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance and the Q-jet carb I have that do not like the overdrive. I have a Superbell axle and 70 mph is about as fast as I feel comfortable driving the A and the overdrive has the engine at about2200 rpm with 31 inch tires and it feels like the engine is chugging and lugging to move the non- aerodynamic A down the road, at 60 it is much worse. PS, I absolutely love 283s I have had them in everything under the sun from T buckets, 55 Chevys, Chevelles, Camaros even a mopar. I have 3 sitting in my shed right now for my wish list. Here is my A.

Oh I don't think you're being negative at all.. you're TEACHING! I'm grateful when someone shares their experience such that I may learn from it. Nice Ride!

I've seen some other folks saying that the 2004r transmission has worked out okay for them, so I'm curious as

Originally Posted by dsraven

you really gotta decide the tire size and final drive ratio to figure out the engine rpm at the speeds you like to drive. what type of driving do you do? city, highway, to the grocery store? what is your engine set up to do, best working rpm?

here is an rpm calculator that may help
https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

and a tire size comparison table
https://tiresize.com/comparison/

hope it helps

I really just want to drive locally, hop on the freeway sometimes and go 75 if I want.

Still trying to get comfortable with all the gearing choices everywhere.. man you guys are really freaking smart for just knowing these things offhand!!

The goal is to get a 5 lug rear, maybe with disc brakes. Can I counteract some of the issues that Washington Blue mentioned through that gearing choice? When i plugged a 0.67 overdrive, a 3.73 gear, and a 27 inch tire into the calculator you provided, my rm was about 2200... that seems in line with where washington blue mentioned the 283 was not going to be happy at.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by washington blue

my A is similar weight to my 55 pickup and the small block chevy and overdrive trans has not worked out the best. the overdrive has the engine at about2200 rpm with 31 inch tires and it feels like the engine is chugging and lugging to move the non- aerodynamic A down the road, at 60 it is much worse.

That's why I switched my 700R4 back to a Turbo 350. I live in a hilly area and with 2.73 rear gears the 700 just wasn't the right match. It would have switching in and out of OD constantly.