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Old 10-13-2016, 11:36 AM   #201
ranger2339
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjzepplin View Post
Just trying to save a life here. Sorry I was dramatic. I meant no harm. Just doesn't look safe. If you moved the arm forward by the mod method, and then moved the ball joint mounting then didn't you basically just move the place where the spring sits? I just don't follow what you've done here. I am a little slow today. Again, I mean no harm just trying to figure this out. As I understand the MOD it moves the whole arm and that is what it is intended to do. Or did you move the ball joint in the same direction creating even more caster?
Yea no worries, I didn't mod the cross shaft, just the ball joint mounting location so the spring pocket stays the same.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tinydb84 View Post
I did my first set of arms in a similar way.

The plating is more important on the sides than top and bottom. You lost the strength of the arms when you cut through the sides. Think of bending a ruler when it is flat vs standing on its side.
I totally missed that you shortened the arm a bit in order to keep it alignment with one of the sides there, ah damn. Any pics of the final outcome of your arms?

Might just do the cross shaft mod on another set of arms if I messed these up too much.


I do appreciate all the feedback, as Im not the best at this.
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:05 PM   #202
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

I dont have any pics of them done. You could easily weld a piece of steel to connect the sides.

Here is a pic of how I did a second set
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:30 PM   #203
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

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Originally Posted by tinydb84 View Post
I dont have any pics of them done. You could easily weld a piece of steel to connect the sides.

Here is a pic of how I did a second set
You've got that album set to private
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:15 PM   #204
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

I will probably do my next set like that, just tight on funds and wanted to take a stab at it with the resources I had. Will be a long winter so I have time.

Still would have to figure out the other side with some bracing.


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Old 10-13-2016, 03:47 PM   #205
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

It'll be really hard to get your camber right unless you also take in the upper arm, and then you'll need to think about wheel backspacing (which you'd already have to do anyway most likely.
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Old 10-13-2016, 04:38 PM   #206
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

Yea I did not shorten the arm much so camber should be ok. Just made some relief cuts and bent the arms u bend side supports in and welded them up. In the end should work, seems strong, but will probably be doing the BJ cup replacement mod as it seems the strongest and leaves the spring pocket and integrity of the arm in place?!

Sorry to hijack the thread, I just value the opinions here. I'm done now.



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Old 10-13-2016, 04:49 PM   #207
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

I don't have my album set to private. Im not logged in and can see the pics. Maybe photobucket was down for a bit.

Anyway. The relief cut should work. I put ball joint cuts in my first set of arms and welded a tab to the airbag cup. Probably overkill.

I shortened the lowers 7/8'' and the uppers 1/2''. Camber was fine with one shim. I know it would reduce camber gain but I was more concerned with fender clearance.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:00 PM   #208
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

ranger2339,

No apologies needed this is not high-jacking. You brought a new idea to the table and with some adjustments to your idea we all learned something and that is what we are here for.

I like your modifications especially with the recent adjustments. I would plate both the inside and outside of both the leading side and trailing side with some rosette welds and a good perimeter weld all around. also run a "skid plate across the bottom that strattles the welded joint to prevent any outward deflection of the sides.

Let us know how it ends up!
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:10 PM   #209
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

I thought I would add some additional information to this thread. I went this route on my Burban by obtaining an extra set of used control arms and rebuilding them. By the time I was done I had four used control arm shafts off of three trucks. The measurements I show in the photos below. All of the used ones were 3" plus or minus a 1/16". The two new Moogs (K6147) I used were at 2 15/16". The measurements are from the end of the shaft to the center of the index hole. I did this to avoid the differences in the machined areas for the seals between old and new shafts as previously discussed. (Second photo) After much measuring and double checking I milled a 3/4" index hole (and finished it off with an 5/8 drill bit just in case the rivet was taller than I expected) at 3 3/4" from the end of the shaft.
I haven't got the truck on the alignment rack yet. (Still waiting for a tie rod end). But I will post the spec's when I get them. A couple of things I noticed when doing this. One is as the lower control arm moves forward it changes how the brake hoses flex and I had to tweek the brackets on the cross member to keep the hoses from rubbing when the wheels are hard over. In addition I had to move my sway bar frame mounts forward 3/4" to keep the ends of the factory sway bar from rubbing on the airbags.
The factory index holes measured 11/16" and the Moogs were 23/32". The index rivets were 19/32" in diameter. That means with the replacement shafts there is 1/8" of slop forward and back. As both of my shafts had been knocked back and had damaged the rivets, I had to drill them out and replace them with 1/2" socket head cap screws as the OP did. The old rivet holes had to be drilled out to half inch. As I didn't machine the index holes deep enough I had to grind a 1/16" off the top of the cap screws to keep them from holding the shaft away from the saddles.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:45 PM   #210
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

Also when doing this modification on a bagged truck you will have an additional shock issue. The shock will contact the brake line bracket or the cross member at full drop. To solve the problem I removed the stock shock mounts and made new ones that hold the shock away from the control arm farther and about an inch closer to the frame. I apologize for the poor photos.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
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The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:34 PM   #211
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

Thanks for the heads up on that, nice to know what I'll be running into
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:55 PM   #212
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

You're welcome. I posted some more photos of the shock mount project and a little more information on "The WMB" thread on page 11 (I think its page 11)
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
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1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F1-3 Ford 4X4
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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Old 07-27-2017, 11:36 PM   #213
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

Got a short window on the alignment rack this afternoon so I got a set of initial readings. This is with the shim sets that the PO had installed and I just reused as a base line. My first impression was "Yikes I went too far!". I may have to pull the lower arms and mill a third location if I can't remove some of the caster!!!
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
http://www.superiorperformancenw.com
1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F1-3 Ford 4X4
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:06 AM   #214
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)

After going through it all this is what I came up with. The Burban is bagged so to get the camber where it is I did go with a one inch higher ride height. The biggest driver of this was to reduce the number of shims so now I have full thread contact on the upper control arm bolts. I will drive it this way for a while and see what I decide what to change next.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
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1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F1-3 Ford 4X4
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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