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Old 08-05-2015, 08:31 PM   #276
picklito
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

Ok now I'm thinking that there are multiple locations for the hole. Depending on which one you start with, moving the hole 3/4" is probably not the best way! Putting it a 2" from the end might be the more consistent dimension?

Ya- diagonal groove. I wondered that, too.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:23 AM   #277
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

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Old 07-29-2017, 06:08 PM   #278
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

Just wondering if BMERDOC got the caster modification done on his truck?
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:51 PM   #279
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

I did do it but the truck is laid up after a front end rebuild, disc brake conversion and a general redo of the engine compartment. It should be up and running soon and the alignment done. I'll come back and report what I found.
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Old 07-29-2017, 07:08 PM   #280
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

Good to know. I just finished mine and got the initial readings on the alignment rack. Not being anywhere near accomplished at this stuff as you I look forward to your results. I'm pretty sure I can get it drivable but I may have wait for your results to make real improvements on the alignment.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
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1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F1-3 Ford 4X4
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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Old Today, 01:31 AM   #281
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Re: 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

I was rereading your thread the other day and later it occurred to me you had been talking about milling several index holes to find the ideal distance. With your access to an alignment rack you could grind down the rivet in the saddle that indexes the shaft. After reassembling without an index, move the shaft around and find the best location to balance your alignment and the shim stack. Obviously you couldn't drive it that way but as a test bed it should work. When you are satisfied mark and mill your new index holes. Then it would just be a case of drill out and replace the rivets with more positive indexing cap screws

I drilled my rivets out after I found one side half sheared off and no way to positively position the shaft. When I looked at the other side I found that there was approximately an 1/8" of play between the rivet and the index hole. By machining the new hole to 3/4" and using a 1/2" cap screw I now have virtually no play. I did have to shorten the head of the cap screw as my index holes were not deep enough. Anyway its just a thought.
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