New Guy 72 I6 First Start and Questions

[treefoil]

Good stuff here so thanks already. Here's a first start video of my Dad's 72 C10 w/ a 250 that sat over twenty years. Question. Can I boot all the emissions and put an aftermarket aircleaner right on the carb? I'd like to 86 the egr line, the line that runs from the valve cover into the spacer over the carb and canister on the passenger wheel well. I wouldn't mind getting rid of the two powered throttle controls if thats possible too. Dad already set it up w/ manual choke.
Interested in what you all think. Thanks for your patience with my video skills and video quality. Dave

Part1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bwyb16O3j3A

Part2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WQ8LAUQGRI

[In The Ten Ring]

Before you start taking stuff off, PLEASE post (or send me) pics of how the vacuum lines run from the carb or engine over to the charcoal canister.

I have a 1972 Chevy 250 I got from my dad and he unhooked all of that when he bought the thing off the new car lot.

Depending on how hard core your inspection garage is, they may or may not notice anything about your engine because it's just so old they've never seen it before.

[SS Tim]

Since I can't see your vids, bear with me.

Might want to review what you are actually planning on removing.

The CEC and Idle Stop soleniods have nothing to do with the choke function of the carb.

The breather inlet hose to the spacer is for the PCV system.

The canister with related hoses are for the evap system including the fuel tank venting.

Sitting down with a manual and understanding something first to me is better than simply assuming you can make something better by removing parts.

Amitted many go beyond what is needed for basic run function but there is little reason to disable a functional evap or PCV system.

RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Before you start taking stuff off, PLEASE post (or send me) pics of how the vacuum lines run from the carb or engine over to the charcoal canister.

I have a 1972 Chevy 250 I got from my dad and he unhooked all of that when he bought the thing off the new car lot.

Depending on how hard core your inspection garage is, they may or may not notice anything about your engine because it's just so old they've never seen it before.

Thought we went over this before... maybe not.... RTFM :-)

[68C15]

unless you are racing it' I'd leave it all as designed from the factory and fully functional. By "racing" I mean full on aftermarket fuel/air system with manifold and carburetor as well as high compression pistons and cylinder head.

[Dirt's72]

Way to get it fired up. If you end up removing all of the stuff you mentioned I could use it for my 72 that I'm trying to get all period correct. Could use the cannister, hoses, screws and clamps. Please take pics and let me know if you want to get rid of it. Thanks

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Thought we went over this before... maybe not.... RTFM :-)

Good memory! How long ago was that? Two years?

Original poster.....hit me with those pics as soon as you can!

No mechanic here but that canister system is not going to affect performance. That's just there to allow the gasoline tank to "breathe" with temperature and not stink you out with fumes (that happen to be explosive). My dad never should have unhooked his.

[RichardJ]

The PCV is a good thing to have no matter what you plan to do with the engine. In addition to reducing emissions it maintains a slight vacuum in the crankcase which reduces oil seepage, out through the oil seals keeping the engine cleaner. It also removes moisture from the crankcase. Condensation moisture contaminates the oil and shortens its life. The PCV pulls moisture out.

The evap/charcoal canister keeps the gas from evaporating out into the atmosphere, because it is a closed system. Originally that was intended strictly to reduce emissions while the truck was sitting. Todays ethanol fuels evaporate so fast, it can actually save you a noticeable amount of fuel. On my '67 if I keep records of mileage and fuel added over an extended period of time with multiple fill-ups, You can actually see an increase in consumption when there are extended periods of nonuse.

That steel tube sticking up that you have the red rag in it is used to provide warmed air to the carb only while the engine is warming up. If you are planning on putting a nicer, modern air cleaner on the engine, then loosing that hot air pipe won't hurt anything. If you are planning on putting one of those crappy little 4" air screens on it, the engine will be a lot happier with the original air cleaner setup.

I didn't see an EGR in your video, but I can't remember where it was located on the six. If you plan on keeping that carb, then you might as well keep the EGR, because they would have been designed to work together. The EGR adds exhaust gas to the air/fuel to control detonation. If you dump the carb, dump the EGR.

[treefoil]

I got the thing running good enough today to try a test run. Right off I discovered the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel so it took a bit of driving around to break that loose. Amazingly, the brakes worked...sorta. I'll add a video of all that in a bit so you can come along for the ride. Can someone give me a tip on how to have the video show right here instead of having to go to youtube to see it?

[treefoil]

Okay, lots of good stuff here posted for me to mull. The EGR is for sure gone but good arguments for the PCV and evaporative sys. I'll post a vid of the location all those systems you've requested. Looks pretty much like the illustration posted.

[Custom/Ten]

Watched your video, that's a cool truck. Looks like you have original power brakes. Do you have the original air cleaner. If not then you can use a mr gasket 1490 air cleaner, a breather filter, and a plug for the breather hose on the front driver side of valve cover. Everything said before me is true, they gave you good info. If your evap system works I would leave it but if it was totally trashed like mine then you can get rid of it temporarily or permanently as long as you have some kind of way to vent the tank. You gotta have a pcv! Here's my set up before and after, I'm working on the fuel line right now so ignore that. looks like we have the same truck other than mine did not have power brakes when I got it. I've also added power steering and an hei dizzy. Eventually I plan on getting an original air cleaner setup for power brakes and building a new but different set up for evap. Also I don't think any 72's had an egr, mine did not, I think you are mistaking something else for an egr which could be easy to do so I would research that more before you remove anything. I learn new stuff every day but I doubt you have one. Any way my main point is in the pic you can see how to delete evap and switch to a cheap air cleaner. And as stated before DO NOT use a four inch air cleaner, they restrict air flow, the 1490 is bigger and won't restrict. Anyway hope this helps!

[Custom/Ten]

Lol, looking at my pic it looks like the fuel line goes to the brake booster, it does not, just a funny camera angle, this thing does run and drive very well. Also to just to give an idea of what your getting into, if your truck was like mine and it sounds like it was. All the rubber on your trucks gonna be bad. All your brake stuffs gonna start failing one piece after another until you do a full overhaul. I'd replace every inch of rubber fuel line immediately, can be done for less than ten bucks.

[Custom/Ten]

Here's an old pic from before I added power steering, might help you get a better view.

[Custom/Ten]

I'm sure your busy working on your new project but if you get a couple minutes to post a pic or vid of how you switched to a manual choke I would love to see how you did it. I researched how to do it a couple times and all I could find was info saying you can't do it without switching carbs. Maybe I gave up looking to soon. I don't think my automatic choke works very well but maybe it would be better when it was new and I just need to replace it.

[Custom/Ten]

And in case I wasent clear earlier, I'm not really endorsing my setup, but it will get you on the road with all the necessitys for about 30 bucks.

[treefoil]

Custom Ten you're right. I'm confusing egr and pcv. Your air filter looks good and yes, I do have the original filter setup. I'll get your choke photos asap....also is that a vented oil fill cap? Looks good!

[Custom/Ten]

Originally Posted by treefoil

Custom Ten you're right. I'm mistaking pcv for egr. Your air filter looks good and yes, I do have the original filter setup. I'll get your choke photos asap....also is that a vented oil fill cap? Looks good!

Yes that is the oil cap, the reason it's there is because I removed the breather hose that runs to the stock air filter. My aftermarket air filter does not have a place for a breather hose. Therefore I removed the hose, plugged the hole, and installed the breather filter directly in the hole to the oil cap. The breather is needed to maintain a functional pcv.

Basically my setup is used when you want to add power brakes on a 250 that had Manuel brakes.
Anyway I'm gonna hit the hay, take er easy.

[70shortstep]

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[Custom/Ten]

These guys here trying to buy your parts should tell you something lol! Think about using it, or at least wait till I get paid on Wednesday before you decide to sell! Haha just kidding! Seriously that factory set up is pretty rare, if you do decide to go the aftermarket route, sell it to one of these guys they'll make good use of it, just please don't throw it away!

[treefoil]

lol C10 you crack me up....and is that your truck...love it! I think the highrollers now call that used look "patina." Also like your honesty, had no idea the air filter was worth a thing. Well I'm a saver so prolly nothing for sale just now...I'll make a point of getting a photo of the choke setup tomorrow....worked on my house and fences today.

[Custom/Ten]

Haha, yea some people call it junk, I like to think of it as extreme patina! It's really just an old beater I picked up for $1000 so I could have something to work on while I was getting my auto degree. They give us lots of minivans and Pontiac sunfires to work on at school but I wanted to learn some older systems. Spent a whole semester learning fuel systems and they used 5 minutes of that talking about carburetors so they're not a lot of help in the "old school" department. Having this old beater really helped me learn the basics cause man did it need everything lol.
Anyway glad your having fun on the farm man! Sometimes I miss working on the farm I grew up on then I remember what's like to bottle feed a male calf. You had about two seconds to jam that nipple in his mouth and if you missed you better get ready for a butt whooping like you ain't never had before. Still good times though! Been watching those vids, your dad looks like he's havin a blast, take er easy bud!

[treefoil]

Here's that choke setup. Its unhooked and needs to be dialed in but back in the day it worked fine.

[Custom/Ten]

Thanks man! Seems so simple now that I see it. I can't see any reason that wouldn't work great. I'd feel stupid for not thinking of that myself if I hadn't read so many threads saying it couldn't be done. O well ill just blame them, now I feel better haha!

[RichardJ]

I'd like to see a picture of the other side of that carb, At this point I would guess that if you don't step on the throttle and hold it, before you pull the choke on, you will start bending things or break the choke cable. The high speed idle step cam is going to hang up.

Generally what is needed is a spring loaded mechanism so that when the choke cable is pulled, it tightens up the spring. When you step on the throttle, the step cam is released and the spring closes the choke and moves the cam to the higher steps.

[treefoil]

There is no mechanical linkage on the firewall side of the choke shaft. There are two solenoids mounted on that side of the carb that control the position of the accelerator butterfly shaft for idle positions...I haven't installed them since the rebuild. May play w/ that once the engine is running better. The wiring is pretty rough so thats a different project.