Brake line help

[Todersauce]

I have a 68 K20 it had 4 wheel drum brakes with what I assume is a stock brake system. I have a rebuilt front 78 Dana 44 open knuckle axle with disc brakes that I’m installing. I have installed new 4” lift springs. I’m also trying to install a 14BFF in the rear with disc brakes.

My issue is with the brake lines. The new calipers and stainless brake lines for the lift are 3/16” lines while the stock lines are ¼”. The old metal lines are, well old and when I opened them I found they were full of “mud” I have no clue what it is but I figure it is as easy to replace them then clean and repair them. I have called classic tube and another company and no one seems to make a replacement kit for the 4x4.

I think this is a common swap what did you guys do to make a safe brake system?

[donut]

My old metal lines I bent myself. local auto parts store had the tubing and fittings.
With the way road salt was in ME, it seems like I was replacing one constantly. (all of my vehicles)

[67gmcstepside]

I used 72 1/2 ton set when I converted my 67 to 72 blazer axles. I had to get a few brass junction pieces and make a few creative bends but all in all they fit.

[OrrieG]

I put a 74 K10 drive train under my 59. I used lines from NAPA from the proportioning valve to the frame at the calipers and rear end. I used Russel braided lines from that point to the caliper and stock line on the rear end housing. I did it with one coupling joint on each side for the back runs. I used the stock line from the MC to the proportioning valve, modified to fit. The MC and proportioning valve are mounted under the driver seat next to the frame hot rod style. Because the MC sits higher than the calipers and rear wheel cylinders in a 4wd set up no check valves are required. My build thread has photos. The line from NAPA comes with two fitting and pre-flared ends, I cut and flared the rest.

[Americanrider]

I stuck a 1975 Dana 44 under my 67 K20, stole most of the lines and P-valve from 73-78 trucks and fabbed mounts & junctions myself. My p-valve is now down on the front cross member and out of the way when I want to change plugs on the drivers side.

To account for your lift you will need longer lines coming down from the MC, you can have them bent into a spiral (about 3 coils worth) and stretch as needed.

[Todersauce]

The issue isn’t so much with the lines from the frame to the axle I bought new superlift SS braided lines for the frame to the caliper in the front. My main issue is the size of the line. The old line is ¼” and the new SS line is 3/16”. I went down and got 2 adapters ¼” to 3/16” and it will work on the passenger side because it is a simple connection. But the drivers side has a “banjo bolt” (much like the bolt that conects the flex brake line to the caliper) and when I screw that bolt into the adapter there is a gap where the fluid can leak out. I have looked at a set from a 72 I think this might work but I think my best bet is to is just by new line and accessories and cuss and cry and make it work.