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Old 08-27-2017, 12:32 AM   #26
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Re: Another update...

Quote:
Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy View Post
So the hazard fuse was blowing because I had the knob pushed in so the hazards were "on". I pulled out the knob to turn the hazards "off", reconnected the battery and the hazard fuse held. I turned the key to the first position to test the turn signal and when I pushed up on the lever for a right turn signal, the Turn Signal fuse popped. I checked both flashers and I think they're ok but I'm not sure. Going to start tracing wires again.
Your hazard fuse was blowing because the short in the right turn light wiring was connected through the hazard lights when it was pushed in.
Pull the steering column plug and check the purple wire for continuity to ground
zero ohms. key off, you don't want power on these wires.

You probably won't see zero ohms there.

Now check it on the steering column side between purple and ground or what ever color matches the purple wire from the fuse panel.

First with the signal lever in no turn and then in right and left turn.
You shouldn't see zero ohms in either position unless the short is in the wiring in the column. This check isolates the steering column harness from the rest of the truck.

If you don't see zero ohms then check the right turn wire in the harness to the right turn lights. You will probably get zero ohms which means the right turn light wires or one of the lights is shorted to ground. This includes the signal indicator lights in the dash.
If you can get to it I would unplug the cluster plug to isolate the indicator lights if you get zero ohms on the right turn light wire.

The right turn light wire for the rear is dark green and for the front and the indicator it is dark blue.
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:48 PM   #27
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Cool Thanks again VV!

Thanks VV,

Well, a major part of my problem is that my rear lights were not properly grounded. I have running lights all the way around, brake lights and I'm 99.9% sure my reverse lights work. I have installed a new turn signal switch but now when I push the lever left or right, no turn signals. I switched the flashers in the block and got the same result. What I did not do is push the lever one way or another and leave it there which I tried when the fuse was blowing. Now that the rear lights are grounded, I am just pushing the lever left or right, counting to 1, and putting it back to "neutral". The good news is that no fuse is popping. The bad news is that my signals aren't signalling.

I will also run your tests above. Hopefully I didn't blow something on this new switch...
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:14 PM   #28
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Question Ran those tests

So I checked the purple wire (Marked as Turn Switch Feed on AAW) and VV is correct. I read 0.84 ohms which is probably normal.

When I flip the switch is when everything goes to crap. Now maybe I should mention that I have been testing with the switch in the column and the steering wheel completely off and when running these ohm tests I've taken the switch out of the column and verified that no wires are touching or frayed. But I am testing with the switch outside of the column.

When I move the switch right or left, ALL of the turn signal wires, both right and left, front and back, go to 0 ohms. That certainly doesn't sound right...
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:15 PM   #29
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Re: Ran those tests

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So I checked the purple wire (Marked as Turn Switch Feed on AAW) and VV is correct. I read 0.84 ohms which is probably normal.

When I flip the switch is when everything goes to crap. Now maybe I should mention that I have been testing with the switch in the column and the steering wheel completely off and when running these ohm tests I've taken the switch out of the column and verified that no wires are touching or frayed. But I am testing with the switch outside of the column.

When I move the switch right or left, ALL of the turn signal wires, both right and left, front and back, go to 0 ohms. That certainly doesn't sound right...
Check your hazard switch for closed, this would connect all the turn wires together and give you zero ohms between the purple wire and any of the turn signal wires.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:31 PM   #30
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Arrow Piecing the puzzle together

My inexperience will probably show here so bear with me...

Here are the results with the new switch and both positions of the HAZARD knob:

A) Hazard knob pulled all the way out - No fuses pop but no signal lights at all when switch is pushed left or right. All other light functions seem to work.
B) Hazard knob pushed in - Hook the negative cable back up and HZRD fuse blows immediately

I feel like this should tell me what or where the problem lies but like I said, this is my first time wiring a vehicle and I'm learning as I go. Help me VV-wan-kenobi, you're my only hope.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:44 PM   #31
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Confused

Ok VV,

I ran your tests.
"Now check it on the steering column side between purple and ground or what ever color matches the purple wire from the fuse panel.

First with the signal lever in no turn and then in right and left turn.
You shouldn't see zero ohms in either position unless the short is in the wiring in the column. "

Well I did check the purple wire on both sides and I am getting 0 ohms on both sides. But checking the individual right/left wires, they are getting continuity correctly. So shouldn't the purple wire show continuity (0 ohms) since the electrons should be flowing to the respective wires? Confused.
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:43 PM   #32
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Re: Piecing the puzzle together

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My inexperience will probably show here so bear with me...

Here are the results with the new switch and both positions of the HAZARD knob:

A) Hazard knob pulled all the way out - No fuses pop but no signal lights at all when switch is pushed left or right. All other light functions seem to work.
B) Hazard knob pushed in - Hook the negative cable back up and HZRD fuse blows immediately

I feel like this should tell me what or where the problem lies but like I said, this is my first time wiring a vehicle and I'm learning as I go. Help me VV-wan-kenobi, you're my only hope.
Ok lets check out the new switch just to be sure. I take it that the hazard switch has to be pushed in to flash all the lights and out for the normal turn signals.

If you have the TS switch back in or still out doesn't matter as long as you know what wires are for which lights. I think you know the purple wire is the power wire for the normal turn signals and the dash indicator lights.

I'm going to use the normal colors for this test so I hope your column wires match.

Start out by removing the battery negative cable and if you have the column harness disconnected you can leave it on.

Here are the colors and what they do. Starting on one end and going across.

Black--------Horn

light blue---------left front--left indicator

dark blue--------right front--right indicator

brown----hazard power from the fuse panel hazard flasher

purple----- from fuse panel flasher for normal turn lights

yellow--------left rear turn/stop light

dark green -------right rear turn/stop light

white-----L and R rear brake lights

Here's a pic and it looks like the right colors are in the left hand. If they go to the TS switch it's all good if yours are not the same then you'll have to match them up.

Anyways here's how to test.

with the red meter lead on the white wire and the black lead touching the yellow then dark green and the switch lever in neutral-----zero ohms
these are the brake lights.

Now--put the lever in right turn and test the dark green wire---No ohms
Now --put the lever in left turn and test the yellow wire-- no ohms

if you get those readings your brake circuit is good.

Now--place the red meter lead on the purple wire and the black lead on the dark green wire with the lever in neutral--- no ohms

Now place the lever in right turn---- zero ohms--- right turn is good.

Now with the red led on purple wire, place the black lead on the yellow wire.
with the lever in neutral ---- no reading

Now place the lever in left turn ---zero ohms --left turn is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple, place the black lead on the light blue wire ( second from the end next to the black wire) with the lever in neutral--
no reading. Now place the lever in left turn-- zero ohms= the left front is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple place the black lead on the dark blue wire with the lever in neutral--no reading--lever in right turn--zero ohms. the front signals are good. Remember this is just the TS switch it doesn't mean the signal lights are good.

Now place the read lead on the brown wire (hazard) and with the TS lever in neutral and the hazard switch out, touch the black lead on the four turn wires
Yellow, dark green, Light blue, and dark blue.---no reading.

Just for kicks touch the red meter lead to the yellow wire and the black meter lead to the other three wires, Lb DB and dark green just to see if they are shorted to each other in the TS switch.

OK now we check the TS switch with the Hazard switch pushed in. The lever should be in neutral. Some of these switches are set up to flash all four lights and some of them require the lever to be place in L or R turn for the hazards to all flash. I don't remember if ours does but all four wires should read zero ohms in one position or the other.

So check for zero ohms between the brown wire and the four signal wires
Y DG LB and DB

If you are not getting these readings then you TS switch is bad.

From what you posted, with the hazard switch pulled out (off) the turn signals don't work, but if you are blowing fuses then you might not know.

I have a sneaking suspicion that your shorting blown fuse problem are a result of some thing shorted in the dash cluster indicator lights. That is why I asked you to disconnect the dash plug in my earlier post.

If you followed my testing in the other post on the turn signal wires you should have found the wire with the least ohms to ground which would indicate a short to ground and blown fuses.

GOOD LUCK.


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Old 08-28-2017, 09:57 PM   #33
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Re: Confused

................
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Ok VV,

I ran your tests.
"Now check it on the steering column side between purple and ground or what ever color matches the purple wire from the fuse panel.

First with the signal lever in no turn and then in right and left turn.
You shouldn't see zero ohms in either position unless the short is in the wiring in the column. "

Well you wouldn't unless your switch was out of the column and then you wouldn't have a ground to check to.

Well I did check the purple wire on both sides and I am getting 0 ohms on both sides. Of the connector yes. But checking the individual right/left wires, they are getting continuity correctly. So shouldn't the purple wire show continuity (0 ohms) since the electrons should be flowing to the respective wires? Yes unless the hazard switch is disconnecting the purple wire and the signal wires.You wouldn't have turn signals if all four lights were blinking at the same time. Confused.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:07 PM   #34
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Wink Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

I have checked the switch as requested and just so you know, yes the colors all match on my harness so everything you say makes sense. If I don't quote something from your instructions it means that it worked. I did have some variations though. Here are the results:

Red meter lead on purple wire and black lead on dark green with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no ohms. --- I am using the 20k setting on ohms and coming up 0.85 ohms. Not sure if this is close enough to zero or if it is an issue.

Red lead on purple, black lead on yellow with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no reading -- I am getting 0.84 or 0.85 ohms.

Red lead on brown, TS in neutral, hazard out. Touch black lead to the four turn wires. Supposed to be no reading. -- I am getting .04 ohms on each wire.

Just for kicks: Red lead to yellow wire and black lead to the other three wires (DB, LB, DG). This was done bypassing the switch and tested where the harness connects to the TS coupling LB and DB had no reading, but DG shows continuity (0 ohms). I believe this is a problem.

I have traced back the yellow and green wires from the harness back to where they split right and left and I can see no place these wires are touching each other. How else could they show 0 ohms?

Side note: I had printed out some test instruction that I could have sworn were from VV but looking back on this thread it must be another 68 -72 C10 forum post. Here are the two tests I ran and the results were the same:

With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.

Incidentally, all of the tests I ran on the TS switch for left and right turn seem to work according to the multi-meter. I don't think it's the switch. Something more difficult....of course.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:11 PM   #35
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

My apologies VV. You have asked me this twice now. All of the tests run above are with the dash cluster plug unplugged But just so you know I bought a new pigtail and bulb for the heater control (gray wire out from the cluster plug) and even when the cluster is plugged in the bulb doesn't want to light.
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:46 PM   #36
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Lightbulb One (3) more thing(s)

Since we are talking about the purple and brown wire on the steering column, I thought I might mention the flashers. They are the same and came with the wiring kit. Model is 552/536 12 volt 32CP-MAX6. Since the hazard and turn are the same, it may say something about the wiring configuration but I'm not sure what.

Also, just FYI, when everything is hooked up and I try the switch in either direction, there may be a one second delay and then the fuse pops. But the lights do not flash before the fuse pops. Could that indicate the issue is before or after the flashers?

One more thing: My rear markers are 3 wire (white, red, black) LED. I have done research on these and everything I have read indicates white=ground, red=turn, black=running. I had a theory that I might have this backwards and it was overloading the switch. But this theory fails because the running lights work all the way around the truck.

Anyway, there's more info. All input is welcome as usual.
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:48 PM   #37
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Stumped again

Now I have tried isolating the front and rear lights to see if one or the other maybe causing the issue. No luck on either one. The one good piece of news is I did get my heater lamp bulb working, just needed to be grounded properly.

The only think I haven't tried for this issue is replacing the flashers. I don't know if it will do anything but these are the only part of the circuit that I can't tell for sure is bad or not. I've been reading a little bit about using LED with standard bulbs which can cause problems but the running lights appear to work fine on my LEDs.

If I was to get a flasher I was looking at this one as it's designed to anticipate issues: https://www.octanelighting.com/Chevr...yABEgJUTPD_BwE Kind of expensive though. I'll take any advice right now. This is driving me crazy.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:31 PM   #38
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Thumbs down Not the flashers

Got a couple of heavy duty flashers and tried them out. Same thing. Tried harder to flash this time but turn signal blew and when I switched to hazard that one blew too. I'm calling AAW on Tuesday.
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Old 09-04-2017, 12:14 PM   #39
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

Phew! I'm exhausted just reading your rewire experience. I just bought the "classic" kit from AAW and plan to start my project shortly. I have to admit, reading your posts has made me a little reluctant to say the least! I did want to tell you I called AAW with a number of questions I had in prepping for my project. Wow, what an awesome experience. The rep spent an hour and a half and was extremely knowledgeable about my c10. Hoping for a great outcome!
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:40 PM   #40
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Question Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

Thanks OUbesto,

I have talked to AAW once and the gentleman I talked to steered me in a direction which allowed me to figure out a few things on the harness. The thing that is stumping me right now are the turn signals. All of the other lights work and don't blow fuses. Both left and right, front and back refuse to flash and blow the turn signal fuse everytime the switch is pushed right or left and the hazard blows as soon as you push the red knob. The running lights WORK all the way around. How can the turn signals be grounding or shorting when the other wires on all of the bulbs appear to be carrying current just fine?
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:37 PM   #41
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

Well you're still at it huh. Here is what I would do.
Disconnect the steering column wiring harness and put a new fuse in the stop turn holder in the fuse panel.
get a jumper wire about six inches long.
Turn the key on so you have power on the purple wire.
Jump between each of the turn signal wires both front and back and the purple wire.
See which one blows the fuse and that will tell you which one is shorted to ground.
If all the bulbs light and the fuse doesn't blow, then the short is in the turn signal harness or the switch itself.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:26 PM   #42
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

What about the third option? The option where I do jump the purple wire to each individual and ALL of them pop the fuse?

From one of the posts above: With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.


I have also tried unplugging the front marker/turn lights (fuse blows) and disconnected the rear turn lights (fuse blows).

Now, I am willing to try jumping the purple wire jumped to each individual one but at this point I am betting that they will all blow the fuse. I will also need to buy yet another box of 10 amp fuses so that I can make sure I have at least 4 to try.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:21 AM   #43
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

..................
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Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy View Post
I have checked the switch as requested and just so you know, yes the colors all match on my harness so everything you say makes sense. If I don't quote something from your instructions it means that it worked. I did have some variations though. Here are the results:

Red meter lead on purple wire and black lead on dark green with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no ohms. --- I am using the 20k setting on ohms and coming up 0.85 ohms. Not sure if this is close enough to zero or if it is an issue.

You should be using the lowest scale that you get a reading on. Are you using an analog meter with a needle or a digital meter? You should be seeing enough resistance that the bulb won't light. I would expect no reading. Then when you move the switch lever to right turn you should get continuity or very low ohms.

Red lead on purple, black lead on yellow with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no reading -- I am getting 0.84 or 0.85 ohms.

Same thing here on left turn.

Red lead on brown, TS in neutral, hazard out. Touch black lead to the four turn wires. Supposed to be no reading. -- I am getting .04 ohms on each wire.

Does your hazard switch turn on the lights when pulled or pushed in? If when pulled you should get continuity on all four wires, Low ohms on lowest scale. They should have continuity to each other as well because the switch connects all of them to the brown hazard wire.

Just for kicks: Red lead to yellow wire and black lead to the other three wires (DB, LB, DG). This was done bypassing the switch and tested where the harness connects to the TS coupling LB and DB had no reading, but DG shows continuity (0 ohms). I believe this is a problem.

If both wires Y and DG, were shorted to ground and You checked between them for continuity you would get zero ohms, so yeah this is a problem.

I have traced back the yellow and green wires from the harness back to where they split right and left and I can see no place these wires are touching each other. How else could they show 0 ohms?

see previous.

Did you check the harness from the front and slong the frame rail for a clamp pinching or grounding the two wires?

Side note: I had printed out some test instruction that I could have sworn were from VV but looking back on this thread it must be another 68 -72 C10 forum post. Here are the two tests I ran and the results were the same:

With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.

Incidentally, all of the tests I ran on the TS switch for left and right turn seem to work according to the multi-meter. I don't think it's the switch. Something more difficult....of course.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:25 AM   #44
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

If you had the grounding in the above and you had the ground in the indicator bulbs in the dash, it would explain all your symptoms including the hazard blowing fuses.

I suggested you pull the dash plug in a previous post and checking for grounded wires in the front turns. You need to isolate each light to find out which one is grounded.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:04 PM   #45
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

Any luck yet?
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:30 PM   #46
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More puzzle pieces

Sorry Moose, not yet, I was sick for a week and just started playing with it again.

I bought an $8 test light and another box of fuses so I can move forward. I hooked up the battery and then clipped the test light to ground and tested the red wire on the back of the fuse block that is the input for both the purple and the brown wire that run to the TS switch. (The purple TS switch feed and the brown hazard feed wire share this red wire on the fuses with the TS switch to the left (10 amp) and the hazard to the right (15 amp))

Light comes on so this red wire is good.

Touched to the backside of the fuse block on the hazard (brown) wire. Light came on so this wire is good.

Touch to the purple wire....nothing. I've suspected this wire from the very beginning but I can't see anything wrong with it. Delving a little further I used my digital multimeter to test further, after unhooking the battery of course.

On the AAW harness, on the back side of both the TURN and the HAZARD fuses, there is the red wire input on one side and then each side runs a short jumper wire to one corner of the fuse block where the flashers connect. It is here where both main wires run directly from the fuse block and up to the TS switch. So the question begged, is it a problem before or after the flasher?

Back to the multi-meter: So, checking for a clear path to ground, I set it to 20k on the ohms scale, put the black lead to a good ground, and then put the red lead to each wire. Red wire: 0 ohms, no resistance. Brown wire: 0 ohms, no resistance. Purple wire: .85 ohms, resistance. Hmmmm This tells me it's the jumper wire and not the main purple wire.

That's how far I am right now. Still trying to understand why there is resistance in the wire and what the solution is.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:13 AM   #47
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Re: Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

Keep going you are getting closer. Glad you are feeling better.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:18 PM   #48
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Red face New information

Alright, I just had a revelation that hopefully will lead me to the issue. My inexperience and bad eyesight led me to believe that the HAZARD and the TURN fuse shared a power source (12v red wire). Doing some more digging and unhooking with the purple jumper wire led me to realize that only the HAZARD is fed by 12V red wire. The left side of the TURN fuse is actually open but it runs on a line that has 2 Pink Ignition Feed wires.

One P.I.F. wire runs directly to the ignition terminal of the ignition switch and the other runs to the ignition side of the distributor (HEI in this case). They look to be hooked up correctly according to the AAW instructions and independent sources. So now I'll start testing those wires and see what I come up with.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:25 PM   #49
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Front park/turn lights are the problem

I got ahold of AAW and we ran a couple of tests. We were able to bypass the switch and found the rear turn signals work fine. Then we tried both front turn signals. The front park/turn lights are grounding when the switch is flipped and causing the fuse to blow. I'm certain this is what is causing the issue.

Waaaay back in this thread there was a time when I switched the wires on the front park/turn lights and this allowed the park lights to work. But on my harness the connectors for the front park/turn lights that plug in at the radiator support are [B]3 wire[B] and not two wire like every schematic that exists for this model truck. AAW even said this was unusual and is probably some kind of aftermarket connector.

I'll note here that the guy I bought this truck from was basically a used car salesman and lied to me about several things and said the electrical worked just before I drove it home with headlights only. So once again, I'll curse his name: THAT F*****G GUY!!! (where is the emoji with two middle fingers? You can name it after me.)

So with a 3 wire connector, one should go to park, one should go to turn, and one should go to ground (presumably). Since the park lights work I took the two remaining wires on each side (ground and turn) and switched them. Then hooked up the battery, turned the ignition, and tried the turn signal again. And the fuse popped....again.

As I said above, every schematic I've seen has two wires into the front park/turn lights and is grounded at the bulb. I believe this connector is incorrect so I am going to cap off the ground wire on each connector to see if that solves it. If not, then I'll have to look for different connectors. We'll see what happens.
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:36 PM   #50
C10Coloradoguy
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 36
Talking Victory!!!

Sure enough, that extra wire on both sides of the park/turn lights was the problem. I capped off both sides so that there was just input to both sides of each bulb and now everything flashes and lights up as it should. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It's been an arduous journey but I have learned a ton along the way.

Keep em' on the road!
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