Door Assembly...the EASY way with Pictures

[randy500]

I have posted this new thread because the old one has a lot of comments and the pictures I added are on page 3, I wanted the pictures on page one. The old thread is still here....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=732400

Tool List
3/8 drive #2, #3 and $4 Philips screwdriver bits, available online from Snap-On, maybe harbor freight, Lowes, home depot.
Air or electric 3/8 drive impact, I like using my DeWalt cordless driver impact with a 3/8 drive adapter, lots of power and no hose to get in my way.
Combination square, remove the ruler portion and use the ruler to release window sweep clips. This works much better than a screwdriver since its thicker and wider, it also won’t go under the clip, it just pushes it up and as it pushes up it releases the clip.

Disassembly
1. Remove lower rear channel, 2 Philips head machine bolts under door panel, one Philips head machine screw in door jamb above latch.

2. Remove door lock, (makes clearance for the door latch)

3. Remove door latch with handle control and lock rod attached.

4. Remove window inner whiskers and outer rubber wipe, use the ruler portion of a combination, slide it along the lower window opening until you encounter the clip, lower it to get under the clip then push up to release the clip, continue from one end to the other until all are released, use your other hand to pull up on the whisker or rubber sweep to get it released.

5. Slide the window all the way back to the rear till it touches the door

6. Remove the wing window, 3 Philips head screws in the door frame and 2 Philips head machine screws under the door panel, use your impact so you don’t round them out. Tilt the wing window back, then start pulling it up until you’re in the middle of the door frame window opening, rotate the forward pointy part to the inside of the window opening (passenger compartment side) and extract the assembly. (if you extract it from the outer side there is less clearance.)

7. Slide the window forward an inch or so and roll the window up while supporting the upper glass until the window lower channel with the regulator rollers exit the door, then slide the window forward off the regulator rollers. The window should exit the door frame on the outer side.

8. Remove the window regulator.

Assembly
1. Install regulator

2. Roll up regulator while guiding rollers through window opening until the rollers are outside the window opening an inch or so.

3. Slide the glass on the rollers, outside the window opening from front to rear. Roll the window down all the way and slide glass to rear as far as it will go.

4. Install the wing window from inside the window opening (passenger compartment side) with wing window pointing towards passenger compartment. When lower channel is far enough in the door, turn the assembly 90 degrees and push if forward to seat in the opening.

5. Roll the window up while guiding it forward into the wing window run channel

6. Install door latch with lock rod and handle control attached as one unit.

7. Install door lock

8. Roll the window all the way up, install the window rear channel, just install the door jamb screw and this time and install it one revolution from finger tight, this allows it to dangle free but not too-free.

9. Roll the window all the way down and slide forward into front channel.

10. Slide the rear run channel weather-stripping down into the door feeding it into the lower rear channel. (You should mark the weather-strip upper length needed prior to doing this so you know when to stop feeding it down.) Ensure the weather-strip is fully seated in the rear channel especially at the very top of the channel.
The picture in post 21 below shows where to feed the rear run weatherstripping, if not fed down into the channel, the weatherstrip at the end will bind when the glass is rolled up, you would think the glass would push it in but it wont, it just binds, so ensure its fully seated at that location and where it begins to fit the rear door frame at the same location.

11. Install the lower rear channel remaining machine screws and tighten them all.

12. Install the inner and outer window sweeps.

Short cuts and why they don’t work and just cause frustration.
1. Not removing the door latch.
If you don’t do this there is not enough room to remove the wing window without forcing it out. If you remove the latch you have enough room to slide the window back far enough so that the wing window has clearance between the window and the welded door support which holds the inner and outer door skins together.

2. Not removing the door lock at all or before removing the door latch.
The door latch is difficult to remove or install with the lock in the way, just take it out. Pry the clip off with a long pry bar against the inner door structure, then retrieve it with flashlight and magnet, grease the clip before installing it will help it slide in.

3. Removing or installing the latch with the handle control and lock rod attached.
The clips for the rods are difficult to maneuver and install or release inside the door, lay it out on the bench and install as one unit to make it easier.

4. Not removing the window sweeps.
You need them removed to get the window lower channel and regulator rollers to clear the window opening to remove the window from the regulator. Removing them also creates clearance for the wing window lower support to clear the opening.

5. Changing the regulator without full door disassembly
Don’t even try to shortcut the process by thinking you can change this without full door disassembly, you will regret it. It is possible but it’s hard to get the 3 rollers in the channels and the wing window interferes with the regulator, its especially bad if it’s a ’72 regulator with the longer shaft, you just cut up your arms trying to save a few steps, its not worth it.

6. The door frame tilts inward therefore I should remove the wing window from the outside of the window opening.
Sound theory but the clearance problem is with the lower screw bracket on the wing window inside of the door, when you do it this way that part has less room inside the door as the inner door has more clearance towards the outer door skin since it curves outward from the door frame.
The clearance to rotate the wing window is increased if you install the wing window from the passenger compartment side of the door frame opening.

Picture of tools and door hardware that each tool fits.

[randy500]

Regulator installed with regulator rolled as far up as possible so the window rollers are outside of the door.

[randy500]

Slide window front to back onto rear roller, then get front roller in track at relief cut for roller. (there is a round hole in the channel for the front roller, push the front roller in at this point)

[randy500]

Roll the window down all the way and slide it back till it hits the rear of the door. Picture shows clearance to install vent window.

You can see my door is missing the metal piece that ties the inner and outer door together under the wing window, having it in place does not make it harder to assemble or change how the door assembles. The removed metal piece does not create more clearance for any assembly step.

[randy500]

Install vent window from inside as shown in picture.
Then pivot window in place while leaning the top towards back of window frame, there is plenty of room for this because the window is all the way back and the door latch has not been installed yet.

[randy500]

Roll the window all the way up while guiding it into forward wing window glass run channel

[randy500]

Latch and associated parts preassembled for installation.

[randy500]

Install rear window run channel as pictured, rotate counterclockwise then pivot into place (counterclockwise looking down)

[randy500]

The rear window run channel weatherstrip (fuzzie channel) that follows the rear of the window and curves above the window can be tricky to install when new.
If its used and well formed to the frame then I just slide it down through the window opening onto the rear glass channel inside the door. Use baby powder to lubricate it.
A blast of air from an air nozzle will blow it away and clean it up. Don't use powdered graphite or spray silicone as it makes a mess.

If the run channel is new it can be harder to install so remove the rear lower run channel machine screws and loosen the one above the door latch, insert the weatherstrip down into the door with the window rolled up about half way.
Install starting at top flush with wing window working into place until fully installed in window frame then work it into channel inside of the door.

Reinstall the rear window run channel lower machine screws (2ea) and tighten the one above the door latch.

Now using a tool such as the ruler from a combination square or a large flat blade screwdriver push the run channel weatherstrip into the channel where it transitions from the door frame to the channel...if you don't push it in all the way at this point it will create a PINCH point and the window will be very hard to roll up the last 1/2" or so.

[72GreenMonster]

Thanks for all the great info.

[1SG.Rob]

Wow. Seriously, thanks so much for this. It could not have come at a better time as I have finally come to the realization that my doors are just not salvageable and need to be replaced. I was not looking forward to the headache to reassemble new doors from scratch. I will be referring to this thread throughout the process! Side note, any recommendations on best place to get good quality doors? GMC Paul in generally my go to.

[Red71gmc]

Thanks

[randy500]

Originally Posted by 1SG.Rob

Wow. Seriously, thanks so much for this. It could not have come at a better time as I have finally come to the realization that my doors are just not salvageable and need to be replaced. I was not looking forward to the headache to reassemble new doors from scratch. I will be referring to this thread throughout the process! Side note, any recommendations on best place to get good quality doors? GMC Paul in generally my go to.

Repro doors have fitment problems, I have one and it’s not bad but took some work to fit it. Try Wess at classic heartbeat in Olympia of frank [pickmup) in Olympia too.

[1SG.Rob]

Originally Posted by randy500

Repro doors have fitment problems, I have one and it’s not bad but took some work to fit it. Try Wess at classic heartbeat in Olympia of frank [pickmup) in Olympia too.

Thanks, I'm a dummy and forgot about Wes. I can order from him and go pick it up to save on shipping. Won't be the first time. How much work to get the doors to fit? I don't have much more than basic tools. Any machining needs would be beyond me.

[michael bustamante]

subbed

[ImNoSpaz]

I'm having issues with the lower channel. Once in and the job done, with the glass all the way up, it won't go down past half way. If I do it with the glass down, it won't go past half way up. When its stuck half way up, and I look down that side, I can see the metal part of the runner (the part glued to the bottom of the glass) pinching and bulging the felt. I was told the very top of lower runner needs to be inside the grooves of the door frame at the jam. There's no way this can happen because the mount is flush when that single screw (above the latch) is in? There's no adjustment for this. If I get in that groove, then slide the lower section into place, it pops out. If that top 2 or 3 inches were bent towards the jam. it would stay. The only thing I can think of is the metal part on the glass is set too far out. Its fairly flush with the edge of the glass, but I have looked at a bunch of other window glass and it's damn near the same?
This is driving me absolutely crazy. What am I doing wrong?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by ImNoSpaz

I'm having issues with the lower channel.


Lower Rear channel


Once in and the job done, with the glass all the way up, it won't go down past half way. If I do it with the glass down, it won't go past half way up. When its stuck half way up, and I look down that side, I can see the metal part of the runner (the part glued to the bottom of the glass) pinching and bulging the felt.

Follow step 10 exactly.

I was told the very top of lower runner needs to be inside the grooves of the door frame at the jam. There's no way this can happen because the mount is flush when that single screw (above the latch) is in? There's no adjustment for this. If I get in that groove, then slide the lower section into place, it pops out. If that top 2 or 3 inches were bent towards the jam. it would stay.

The rear channel does not go into anything...the very upper tip sits about flush with the rear of the door, pretty smooth transition from the metal channel to the door frame.

The only thing I can think of is the metal part on the glass is set too far out. Its fairly flush with the edge of the glass, but I have looked at a bunch of other window glass and it's damn near the same?
This is driving me absolutely crazy. What am I doing wrong?

There is a pinch point for the rear run felt where the metal run channel fits to the rear door frame. The pinch point is the transition of the felt from the run channel to the door frame, i explain to slide the felt run channel into the rear channel so it gets all the way seated, if you do it some other way its likely not fully seated.

Its impossible to bulge the felt if the felt is all the way in the channel.

I have seen all sorts of mods, damage etc to the metal that attaches to the bottom of the glass, its unlikely its damaged or installed wrong but possible.

[randy500]

Picture in post 3 shows proper relationship of metal channel attached to glass.

[ImNoSpaz]

OK, your pic 3 shows differently than what I have. So I assume that metal part does NOT slide in the channel? The glass is new black tint, and is exactly the same size as original.

My channel does not set against anything on the upper end. It's about 3/4 inch away while the screw hole is against the door frame/post. No one ever shows a picture of that part. In other words, when I screw that channel in completely, the top tip of it sits about 3/4 inch away from touching anything.

And when the felt is in, you can see a definite change, but its not getting stuck there, its getting stuck maybe 4-6 inches up from the bottom. I have the channels out right now, so no pictures on that, but here's both windows. Notice the felt is all the way in on the 1 picture. Or is it?

The channels I'm using are new, but the 1 in the pic is used. I'll get a pic of the channel later today.

[randy500]

The metal does touch and slide in the rear felt channel

Is the picture of your actual glass? The metal is installed too far to the rear, zoom pic in post 3, when installed correctly the metal attached to the bottom of the glass forms a hypothetical straight line....a straight edge would touch the metal and the glass.

[ImNoSpaz]

Originally Posted by randy500

The metal does touch and slide in the rear felt channel

Is the picture of your actual glass? The metal is installed too far to the rear, zoom pic in post 3, when installed correctly the metal attached to the bottom of the glass forms a hypothetical straight line....a straight edge would touch the metal and the glass.

Yes it is the glass I'm using. I have maybe 8 door glass other than the new ones to look at. Half were about an inch+ away from the end, while the other half looked just like how mine were set up. The old ones I could just tap them backwards or forwards, but this new sticky crud is solid as a rock. So... we went with the looks of the wrong half! 50 50 chance and I was wrong.

So they are going back to the glass shop tomorrow so THEY can move them back.

I'm not clear on your "hypothetical straight line....a straight edge would touch the metal and the glass" ? And I also noticed before I tore everything back out that they way it is now, the metal part is odd (the triangle shaped). Sitting in that track, the top edge is against the back of the track while the bottom edge is against the front. Leaning across if you will. So that added to the metal going in too far added with the felt, I see why it was at a bind. I figured the metal part had to at least be in the felt a little? If not, all that rides when the glass is down, is about 1 inch of the corner of the glass.

Here's a pic of that rear rail. I dropped a 3/8 bolt behind it. So it's about half inch from touching anything when secured.

[randy500]

Is that rear channel reproduction?

I will get a picture of the glass with the metal bottom installed correctly.

[randy500]

Rear channel relationship to glass along with fitted glass width

The tape on the glass in last picture shows everything to the right of the tape rides in the run channel weatherstripping felt.

[randy500]

The silver yardstick shows the “hypothetical line” which when the glass channel is installed on the glass creates a wide surface for the glass to slide down the rear without cocking and binding.

Your repro glass may or may not be cut right so that the hypothetical line is the proper distance 25 7/8” from the front....

If your rear channel is repro it could be the problem too.
Is the glass bottom channel repro too?

[ImNoSpaz]

Originally Posted by randy500

The silver yardstick shows the “hypothetical line” which when the glass channel is installed on the glass creates a wide surface for the glass to slide down the rear without cocking and binding.

Your repro glass may or may not be cut right so that the hypothetical line is the proper distance 25 7/8” from the front....

If your rear channel is repro it could be the problem too.
Is the glass bottom channel repro too?

The new glass is right on the $. The shop here is run buy a guy who's been doing auto glass for a long long long time. He has tons of old auto glass patterns dating back to fred flintones car

I double checked this evening after I took the new ones back out. Laid old on top of new. The channel is repro, but in the first pictures I posted, I was using the rusted originals and had the same issue. The glass bottom channel is original, just blasted and primed.

I will use your measurements tomorrow and see what happens.

I truly appreciate the help.

Edit: I just went back to my second picture of the rail on the bottom of the glass, and it looks darn near the same as your last picture? My first looks off though.