Project: Turbo 250

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Nice job Longbed, all your hard work will be worth it in the end results. it's in the details man. and I answered a couple questions you had on my thread, but dont know if you got 'em. maybe should have posted on here. anyway keep up the good work and flood us with pics

[longbed67]

Yeah, I got the answers, thanks for the info John! I actually already went out and got the seal for the high hump now I just have to get the floor pan cut out...and with the trans I was curious to see if there was different casings in the transmission. I now have a np435 and a sm465 laying around and I am going to go with the np435 because the granny gear is not quite as deep. I also like that the 3rd gear (1.31) is close to 4th (1.00) so when you down shift on the highway it doesnt send your rpm's sky high. I am going to have to make some new trinion pegs to hold the shifter in and get the thing painted up so it looks good but other than that when I took it apart it is super clean and the gears dont even look to have any wear on them, and everything is tight so no need for a rebuild. I do have to have the bellhousing welded because both of them that I have, the ear for the the 3rd starter bolt is broke off, this is something i will have to have done for me as I dont have the setup to weld cast iron properly.

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

Adam, your front calipers are upside down. The bleeder screws should face up. Switch sides with them.

Great work!

[longbed67]

I see that now... In my mind it made more sense to have the bleeders on the bottom and it worked better with the brake line.... Is there any negative side effects of leaving them like that with performance, wear, ect????????

[hgs_notes]

They wont bleed, air will collect in the top of the caliper and they will be mushy.

[longbed67]

Thanks HGS I feel pretty stupid right now, wasnt thinking about it like that....

[longbed67]

Got the air manifold done with the pressure senders installed on it.

[longbed67]

I got the rear end ready for install... blasted and painted, Eaton Posi, 2.76 gears, and Moser axles. I will install the brakes once its bolted in.

[longbed67]

I will be taking in the block to the machine shop on monday getting it bored and honed, crank polished and balanced and threaded for a harmonic balancer, decked, glass beaded, ect...however I wont be able to pick it up till the first week of February when I get back from my clinical rotation. I will be leaving two days after christmas and wont be back till the first of feb. Trying to get as much done before that point!

[slick copper]

Sweet man! This is what I'm waiting to see. I love everything you're doing, but real excited about seeing the 250 w/turbo build up. I'm running a 250 in my '67.

[longbed67]

Wow! Raymond, that engine is lookin real sharp!!! I am going with the original chevy orange and some hammered black finish, but I am diggin' that mint green a lot! Once I get everything assembled I will post all the exact specs of the engine. and all the parts. Whose wires are you running? they look real clean.

[dhaymaker]

Originally Posted by slick copper

Sweet man! This is what I'm waiting to see. I love everything you're doing, but real excited about seeing the 250 w/turbo build up. I'm running a 250 in my '67.
Attachment 839876

longbed67 made reference to the "mint" green and it does look like it, but it looks a bit like a factory GM color. What color is that green?

[chvyboy]

great build thread. I was looking at those same auto meter gauges for my truck, let me know what you did with a bezel for them. Also i love the inline 6!

[slick copper]

Originally Posted by longbed67

Wow! Raymond, that engine is lookin real sharp!!! I am going with the original chevy orange and some hammered black finish, but I am diggin' that mint green a lot! Once I get everything assembled I will post all the exact specs of the engine. and all the parts. Whose wires are you running? they look real clean.

Originally Posted by dhaymaker

longbed67 made reference to the "mint" green and it does look like it, but it looks a bit like a factory GM color. What color is that green?

Thanks man! It is a factory GM green. Well, Duplicolor spray can version anyway. It's called Detroit Diesel Alpine Green. I believe it was used on inline 6's before our model years. I went with it because seems like everyone uses chevy orange on V8's and the 6's, and the truck's gonna be a copper/orange color. Figured that chevy orange would clash in the engine bay against it. And my wires are Accel 8mm Custom cut to fit. I just not too long ago found a TH350 kickdown cable setup for it. Can't wait to get more done, but since I don't have a garage, gonna have to wait till spring.

[longbed67]

Raymond: I dont know what i would do without 2 garages let alone not having one at all! Chvyboy: Right now I am in the process of drawing it up in solidworks so i have the exact dimensions I need and then I can manually enter each cut into the cnc machine and get it cut. If for some reason the machine doesnt want to cooperate since I am no pro at running a cnc I will just manually cut the holes and outlines on the mill. I polished the 6061 to a mirror finish the other day, but I think due to the american muscle having the brushed interior with the chrome bezel I am going to put a 800 grit brushed finish back on it after it is cut.

[longbed67]

Here is what many have been waiting for....

Update on the motor... It will be getting bored .030 over and decked to level based on the front and rear piston to deck measurement to make sure that the compression stays equal across all the pistons. I will be running Dura-Bond cam bearings and Clevite bearings on the rest. I opted out on the forged pistons as I dont have the money to drop on H-beam rods and changing pistons and not the rods seems like a bit of a waste... so I will be running Silv-o-lite cast pistons and Hastings rings with a ductile iron top ring which I have been told by Speed Pro and Hastings will last the longest and give me the best performance with boost in this application. Melling oil pump to lube everything. And ARP bolts on everything. Fel-Pro gaskets on all surfaces. The whole rotating assembly will be balanced including the flywheel.

Easy to read breakdown.

BLOCK:
Bore: 3.905" (give or take based on actual piston measurements)
Pistons: Silv-o-lite Cast stock type for .030" overbore
Rings: Hastings with a ductile iron top ring
Cam Bearings: Dura-Bond
Main and Rod Bearings: Clevite
Oil Pump: Melling
Rod Bolts: ARP
Main Bolts: ARP (Note I ordered 2 sets of SBC 283 main bolts as they are the same as the 250's because they dont make a kit for the inline 6 250) I didnt feel the need to go crazy and order a 250 stud kit from ARP and then line bore the block.

HEAD:

Head Bolts: ARP
New guides
Hardened exh seats
Screw in rocker studs (7/16)
1.94/ 1.60 valve sizes , Undercut stems, stainless construction
High Flow lump kit
Fully ported
Decked .030 -- Chamber size 70CC
High Performance Comp Cams springs setup for .550 lift Hydraulic cam
Lite weight retainers
3 angle performance valve job
Modern valve seals
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum XD Rocker arms (1.75 ratio)
-the rocker arms are traditionally for a BBC but have been custom ordered with the 1.75 ratio
Push Rods I will be ordering a new set either from a local guy who custom builds them or from Comp Cams.

CAM SHAFT:

Comp Cams Hydraulic lifter
Lift .488
Duration 212 @ .050
113 Lobe separation.

IGNITION:

MSD Digital 6 Plus
MSD Boost Timing Master
MSD HEI Distributer

INTAKE:

Clifford Intake with Billet 4bbl adapter plate.
----Methanol injection setup in intake
----Modified to accept MAP sensor for digital read out of vacuum and boost on touchscreen with the air ride controls in the dash
Holley 600cfm double pumper with nitrophyl floats set for a blow through configuration
Extreme-Velocities Carb Hat

Exhaust:

SPA Turbo Manifold ( I have milled out the divider in the center as well as rebored and redrilled/taped the wastegate hole)
Tial Wastegate- Spring set at 5lbs with manual boost controller to increase boost up to 15 lbs.

Turbo:
Honeywell Garrett TO4B with a .96 A/R exhaust side
Schwitzer (Borg-Warner) turbo compressor side 60 trim wheel

If there is something that I am missing on here or something else you want to know let me know!

[longbed67]

Here is the compressor map for the turbo.

[longbed67]

Painted the intake, Got the intake mocked up with the carb and carb hat, and worked on bending some air lines today, found out that I will need a spacer for the carb hat and will have to order one... and getting everything ready to put the cab back on Friday.

[longbed67]

i was thinking about polishing the high spots as it is an aluminum intake to set it off from the rest... not sure if this will look good, what do ya'll think?

[slick copper]

Yeah, polish the high spots. It'll make it pop, and go with the intake. My two cents.

[hgs_notes]

Yep, clean the ribs off.

[67cheby]

i agree, that will look great

[dhaymaker]

I vote with the "polish" group! I think it would add some additional detail to the great work you're doing!

[longbed67]

Well here is an update... I got the ribs on the intake polished and boy does that look nice I forgot that I took pics on my other camera .... so I will post pics when I get back home from the parents after Christmas. Otherwise here are some pics of the bags aired up and, I got the cab back on with the help of my buddy and his brother and law so now I can start flushing the firewall, plumbing the air ride, and brake lines... Plus I now know that I will need to find a set of the sway bar brackets because of the geometry of how it is mounted now just doesn't allow for enough clearance with the tie rods so if anyone has a set laying around let me know. On another note, with the bags aired out, it sits a LOT lower than I expected and sits the control arms on the ground, and that with the drop spindles My jaw was something like either way ride height is where I want it with the bags aired up to the designed 7" of bag height.

[longbed67]

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