"Outkast" 1985 C10 in Hawaii

[BIGglaSS]

I agree with you!

[Dads79GMC]

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

I guess that is the price you pay when you sell your soul to the devil. I wonder who gets the money when they sell these builds that have sponsored parts? Many of them go for big bucks once they run their course. It just irritates me... Mike, you know... I am retired and still working just to afford my toys. Its tough...

I know, it’s really the only reason I work post military retirement, TRUCK STUFF!

[808_67C10]

She is a lil dirty and the weather sucked but... had to throw the shell back on to haul some wood for a project. I gotta finish polishing my racks for my shell... too many projects, not enough time and funding!

I picked up a newly rebuilt seat out of an 88 chevy truck for $100 yesterday. The guy rolled the truck and it parting it out... Not sure if I can switch the mounts to fit in the square-body (haven't looked yet) but, I am damn sure gonna try because it's pretty nice compared to my worn out, saggy and broken one. More to follow.

[808_67C10]

Drilled and slotted rotors for the beast. She stops a little smoother now.

[chocdrop]

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

Is it just me that has a hard time reading threads on here that are getting sponsors or free stuff from companies to build their truck? I fast forward commercials on TV... Now, I feel like I am reading commercials for products in threads now... I guess I just have to stick with the homegrown blue collar builds. I should clean up my thread subscription list.

Love live the daily driver!

your not the only one

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by chocdrop

your not the only one

Thanks Chocdrop! It gets under my skin so I avoid them to keep me sane and from getting kicked off the forum for saying something inappropriate. LOL

[LT7A]

Nice break upgrade. Powerstop maybe?

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Nice break upgrade. Powerstop maybe?

Yeah, they are PowerStops... not sure they help that much but, they look much better. My truck has been doing the hula when I mash the brakes hard... I thought it was a warped rotor so, I ordered these... it helped a little but the problem persisted so, I picked up new calipers and painted them... when I was putting them on a couple days ago, I noticed the hoses were pretty crappy looking so... had to order some since oriellys, napa, or car quest didnt have both of them in stock... for some reason, they only had the left side but not the right so, I ordered them through Napa from Oahu... they should be in today... hopefully I can get her off jack stands in the next day or two.

[808_67C10]

huh huh.... low emitting vehicle... the carb is tuned and I have mufflers officer

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Nice break upgrade. Powerstop maybe?

Had to laugh that I didn't catch my own mispelling...

Anyway, glad that the brake renovation is working out well. Those are off-shore (no offense to yourself, ha) made rotors and I have them on my '93. My mechanic uses them on his Mustang racecar so I think they are of reasonable quality. After a couple of years though I am getting some pedal shudder. Not bad but I think they are glazing a bit and unevenly. So if you haven't done a bedding in sequence with your new pads and rotors, you might want to. I think I'm going to have mine turned (which means I will probably replace just them). So if they or your pad mfr. has a break-in sequence, I'd give it a go. If not, Baer brakes has a good recommended procedure.

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Had to laugh that I didn't catch my own mispelling...

Anyway, glad that the brake renovation is working out well. Those are off-shore (no offense to yourself, ha) made rotors and I have them on my '93. My mechanic uses them on his Mustang racecar so I think they are of reasonable quality. After a couple of years though I am getting some pedal shudder. Not bad but I think they are glazing a bit and unevenly. So if you haven't done a bedding in sequence with your new pads and rotors, you might want to. I think I'm going to have mine turned (which means I will probably replace just them). So if they or your pad mfr. has a break-in sequence, I'd give it a go. If not, Baer brakes has a good recommended procedure.

I already have them on and running.. probably have about 150-200 miles on them. I am not overly concerned.. if they last a couple years no big deal. Hopefully after I get her bagged, my next investment will be Wilwood's all the way around. I have been eyeing the corvette coversions too... we will see when the time comes. My truck is a daily driver so, as long as they stop the beast when I have to, its alllllll good in the hood!

[808_67C10]

Well folks, today is the day that all my plans changed. My plan was to pick up a beater truck to daily drive so I could bag my c10. My windshield started leaking pretty bad and it had some chips in it from before I got it so... I took it to my local glass place to put in a new windshield and gasket and this is what they found... UGLY! Need to come up with a new plan now....

[808_67C10]

Here she is at the Dr's office where I got the bad news! I know it wasnt as bad as most peoples trucks but, those are some tough spots and it isnt as simple as buying patch panels and welding them in... that I can do... oh well.. time to put the big boy pants on and learn some new skills.

[Gribbs]

Thanks for all your pics and time to post them up. Sorry to hear about that window edge. How would you fix that? Could some kind of liquid metal like JB weld do it after cleaning out as much rust as possible? Maybe the same but just with body filler? I guess that wouldn't hold up well.

For you cap, can you take it on and off without help? That would scratch the top parts of the box, I'd think ?? Good luck with the fixes man. Keep at it. My '59 build was nothing but headaches for most of the 5 years it took to do....

[tinydb84]

I assume that fix would cost a pretty penny at a shop...

That repair is definitely doable though. If you haven't done sheet metal before it will take a while to learn how to do it. MP&C has a lot of very good threads on metal shaping. Buy a small welder and a shrinker and stretcher from Harbor Freight and start playing around.

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I assume that fix would cost a pretty penny at a shop...

That repair is definitely doable though. If you haven't done sheet metal before it will take a while to learn how to do it. MP&C has a lot of very good threads on metal shaping. Buy a small welder and a shrinker and stretcher from Harbor Freight and start playing around.

Yeah, I can do patches in sheetmetal but, the window frame takes a lot more work and you can only buy pre-fabed sections for the bottom of the frame. I am scared to death to deal with it.

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by Gribbs

Thanks for all your pics and time to post them up. Sorry to hear about that window edge. How would you fix that? Could some kind of liquid metal like JB weld do it after cleaning out as much rust as possible? Maybe the same but just with body filler? I guess that wouldn't hold up well.

For you cap, can you take it on and off without help? That would scratch the top parts of the box, I'd think ?? Good luck with the fixes man. Keep at it. My '59 build was nothing but headaches for most of the 5 years it took to do....

Not quite sure what I am going to do with. I had the window guy put it back in so I can drive it till I figure it out. He sealed it up best he could. I assume I will have to cut all the rust out and weld new metal in. They only make the bottom section in a patch panel from what I can find. Not sure what to do now.

As for my shell, I take it on and off by myself. I slide a blanket between the shell and the bed then slide it off enough to where I can get under it.. then I just squat it onto some horses. Its sketchy but, so far I havent gotten killed or scratched the truck! HAHA

[skyphix]

Bummer about that window frame rust - I've run into that same scenario with an old Honda daily driver I had. Ended up being my first metal fabrication project - luckily I had some guidance. It wasn't too bad - had it all patched and painted up in a weekend worth of work. A lot more intimidating than it needed to be.

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by skyphix

Bummer about that window frame rust - I've run into that same scenario with an old Honda daily driver I had. Ended up being my first metal fabrication project - luckily I had some guidance. It wasn't too bad - had it all patched and painted up in a weekend worth of work. A lot more intimidating than it needed to be.

Thanks for the encouragement. If it wasnt my daily driver, I wouldnt be as intimidated because I'd have the time to do it right. I swear, these square bodies are a nightmare. Had the same prob with my square K5s back in the day. I am becoming less of a fan of fan of them everyday! LOL Its work to keep it on the road. The ONLY issue I really had with my 67 was the rust but everything else was more basic so, had less problems. If it was easy, I guess we would all be driving old cars, right? LOL

[Matt Man]

Is there actually any rust that has gone all the way through the metal? It looks like heavy surface rust to me. If there is not rot through, you can brush some navy jelly or por 15 on the whole channel to protect it.

[Matt Man]

I looked at the first picture again and it looks like it rusted through. Only way to fix is to cut and replace at that point. Maybe run it by a few shops and get a quote to fix it? I had some under my windshield as well. Talk about a kick in the nuts...

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by Matt Man

Is there actually any rust that has gone all the way through the metal? It looks like heavy surface rust to me. If there is not rot through, you can brush some navy jelly or por 15 on the whole channel to protect it.

Yeah, its through in one side... The other side of the situation is, the paint has moisture under it because it wasnt done right. I got the truck from Cali and it was smooth when I get it. I wanted a rust free base to start with.... now almost 2 years later, the top of the fenders and front of the hood are showing signs of water under the paint. It needs to be stripped, neutralize, epoxy primered then, do the body work and seal it... Shops here all have bad reputations and I dont have those skills. I may start to look at shops in Oahu and ship it up there to get'r done right.

[808_67C10]

Does anyone have any connections for SEMA? I am trying to get there but, not in the automotive industry other than hobby... any advice? I need 5 tickets.

Maybe I should get off my ass and get my tax ID and start my biz (on paper)

[808_67C10]

Got bored this weekend and took off my shell and put my rallys back on. Ahhhh, I love the OEM look. AND, she rides so much better.

[808_67C10]

Oh and scored some pirates booty! Now I can take my speaker out of the air vent on the drivers side! LOL