Building a 327 for my truck. Looking for guidance

[chewychevy67]

I am getting ready to bring my 327 into the shop to have it machined. The guy I'm looking at wants me to buy all the components myself and he will machine and put it together. He is retired, still has the equipment but doesn't want the added cost of buying parts. Anyway. It is a 327 275hp engine from a 1967 impala that has never been punched or anything. 461 heads (1.94 valves, I know new heads are better but these are staying), cast iron intake. Truck has 3:55 gears and th400 with variable pitch converter and gear vendors Overdrive. I am looking to rebuild it to close to stock specs but I would like to put a roller cam into it. With that comes some head work and new springs and such. Anyone out there done one like this? What components did you use and are you happy? Any kits to buy out there that work well together for a 327 with a roller cam? I don't need any more than 300 hp. Just a nice cruiser engine. Also do I need to have hardened valve seats added to these heads to have any longevity? Thanks for the input!

[Warrens69GMC]

If you want to rebuild to stock specs, leave the roller cam out of the recipe. Stay flat tappet.

roller cam and lifters -699
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...10lk/overview/

Then add push rods and roller cam valve springs

For the money to run the retro-roller cam, lifters and pushrods - you could start with a 350 roller cam short block and use all of your top end parts for the LOOK of a 327. The only tell would be the dipstick on the passenger side of the block.

739.99-Block
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...0-40/overview/

209-crankshaft
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-910526/overview/

You can get exactly the performance you want in a 350 Vortec motor........

[chewychevy67]

My concern with the flat tapped cam is more because of the oil these days. I would really hate to wipe a lobe out because of it. With the roller I wouldn't have to put additives in the oil and have an easier break in. As far as a newer block goes I would really like to use the 327 I have. The specs don't have to be dead on I just don't want an engine with much more power than it had new.

[cadillac_al]

I'm with Warren. I think the guys that have lobe problems are the high performance stiff valve spring crowd. I think using stock Z28 valve springs is much less likely to have cam problems. I have never wiped a lobe in my life but I will say no more so I don't jinx myself. I never use any additives just slippery synthetic oil. Good luck on the 327.

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

My concern with the flat tapped cam is more because of the oil these days. I would really hate to wipe a lobe out because of it. With the roller I wouldn't have to put additives in the oil and have an easier break in. As far as a newer block goes I would really like to use the 327 I have. The specs don't have to be dead on I just don't want an engine with much more power than it had new.

With the additives, the math is clear.

Semi synthetic oil -4000 between changes, 200K miles = 50 oil treatments
Synthetic oil - 5000K between changes, 200k miles = 40 oil treatments

stp additive is ~$5 per treatment, so you are spending no more than $250 IF you get 200K out of the motor, if you drive half that, then $125 is total cost

So you spend $1000+ on a retro-roller, for really no benefit.
At least with the 350, you get a little more power and can get a smoother motor based on the size of the motor, plus factory parts if you need a replacement.

[Tom]

If its a large journal 327, then buy a used 87+ 350 block and put your internals in it and use oem roller cam hardware. Cost you less then buying a roller cam setup for a non roller block and a very proven setup.

If its a small journal, that's not an option. But going roller cam is certainly the wise move, I won't build engines without them anymore. The benefit is better efficiancy along with never worrying about additives.

[Dead Parrot]

Not an expert but I think that 327s want to spin a bit faster then a 350 for best results. Between your 3.55 rear end and the overdrive, you may wind up trying to run it too slow.

BTW my first car was a 68 Impala with a 327/TH400.

IIRC, the hardened seats were a fix for taking the lead out of the gas. I seem to remember reading that someone had since found a way to grind valves and seats that also fixed that issue.

[chewychevy67]

It is a small journal engine. I figure if the 3 55 gears are to low ill add a 3 73 when I get this truck driving. That's not a problem.

[65truckowner]

I am with you keep the 327. 300 horse is plenty and the 3.55 gears would also be fine in my opinion . I would use Valvoline racing oil. It is high in zinc. That is what I do and have had no problems. I really like the 327

[Tom]

3.55 and a .70 overdrive is fine unless your turning big arse off road tires.

[82C10step]

I have built several 327's and dyno'd them. A couple we're 300 hp. I just built them to factory specs with a factory specs cam. Comp makes an L79 nostalgia hydraulic cam that has nice exhaust note. With 9.5 to 1 compression they usually make 330-340 hp on the Dyno. It is reliable, not hard on valve train, and runs on 91 octane just fine. I just add a zddp aditive to regular oil and have not had a flat tappet fail for a very long time.

[Coley]

...quick thought on the 461 heads Chewy.
These were a great head in their day and still perform well...but, they usually don't have the front tapped/mount holes to mount up the typical truck bracketry relating to the alternator, etc.
Are you going to go with the car style brackets?

If you want to keep your original truck brackets and original appearance set up....but still want a higher compression old school head....see if there are any 186' or 041' heads around.
Those will give you the same performance (or better) but came with the front holes to mount up the later brackets.

I know a few guys who never looked to check for those holes when putting on older '461 heads and found they had to completely redo their brackets afterwords....thus popping the bubble of original appearance stuff.

....just a thought.

All good
Coley

[82C10step]

You can buy the brackets from Alan Grove to use whichever water pump and pulleys you want with those heads.

[chewychevy67]

I want to keep it original. I have all my accessories restored already and brackets powdercoated. It is going in a era restoration as you may see in my build thread. I may just keep the flat tapped. I just have to watch my oil.

[Coley]

....I think the cam is going to be the key piece in this for sure.
I would definitely talk with some people regarding the truck weight, tire size, rear diff, etc.....to get a cam very well matched for where you want your performance and torque.
Far too many guys target the hp number instead of the torque number and end up with poor performance on the low end.

that will be a great motor tho' for the truck....love those 327's.

all good
Coley

[Eddie H.]

I would add that I have built and ran small block Chevys for 50 years. I have never used any type of oil additive when running flat tappet cams.

I have never had a cam failure, and as long as I run near stock valve spring pressures and cam profiles, I don't expect that I ever will. However, If I were building anything more radical, then a retrofit, or factory roller cam would be my choice.

That being said, for a good running near stock 327, I have always had good results with the factory L79 350 HP 327 cam and Z28 valve springs.